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I changed my alternator/water pump belt, put the battery and about 5 gallons of fuel in, and fired it up for the first time in 2013. First drive followed as soon as the fans turned on by themselves. Fired up quickly, and ran like it was only parked yesterday.
I'm planning on reinstalling the battery and WUR tomorrow and starting it for the first time since Fall, as well. I hope mine starts up easily like yours did!Quote:
Originally Posted by Cory W
Also, any idea how much torque is required for the fuel lines that hook up to the WUR?
From the book (D:02:01):Quote:
Originally Posted by pezzonovante88
M8: 7-9 lb-ft
M10: 9-11 lb-ft
M12: 14-17 lb-ft
Those are M8 and M10, aren't they? I haven't touched mine in a few years.
The one thing you don't want to do is overtorque and break a bolt. ;) OTOH, you don't want to give your engine a fuel shower either. Torque them down, test run, check for any leaks, and give a small twist if there's any sign.
Cool. And, yeah, I already broke the small one! Lol. This time I've got a torque wrench.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cory W
Got the batch of ceramic coated muffler back. had five done.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwdmc16
Oh man, these look awesome. I can't wait to get mine installed. The color came out really great! I'm glad that place worked out.Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
Just did a little bit of painting. I'm not going to put the engine back together ugly.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delo...s/engine16.jpg
Today I put a deposit down on my DeLorean :yesss:
sweet!Quote:
Originally Posted by lordfly
Awesome!Quote:
Originally Posted by LordFly
Where is it coming from?
:thumbup2:Quote:
Originally Posted by LordFly
Alliston, ON - Only 3 hours away from me! I was all prepared to make a 1500 mile trek into the US somewhere, then this dropped into my lap :)Quote:
Originally Posted by John U
I got 1880 started up and drove her for the first time in 2013. Did a quick regraining and some minor projects before she gets trailered to Cincinnati this week for the St. Patrick's Day Parade.
I installed the new WUR and battery on 5875 today. Started her up for the first time since November with no problems. I didn't drive it yet, though. Maybe I'll do that next weekend depending on weather.
It has been a few months since I last updated - have been working on my D for so many hours a night that I've only had a chance to post a few updates on Facebook here and there. So here's to some catching up...
Firstly, ripped out the radiator assembly. Replaced the brass/plastic radiator with DMCH (via MidWest) aluminium (or aluminum to US folk) puppy. Cleaned up the shroud and then replaced the huge, heavy, NOISY, and current sucking fans with NorthWest's insanely quiet, slimline, high airflow yet low current puppies.
In the process I discovered one of my old fans had dislodged its propeller and was no longer spinning - which would explain why in the month prior I had noticed my fans ran for 2-3 times longer than usual to cool down (I presumed it was the hotter weather, but turned out one of the fans was spinning freely).
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4456 Overheated on me the other day in a short driving condition and the fans never seemed to kick on. She was due for an oil change and I noticed the coolant was on the low side so today I did the oil change today and topped off the coolant. My son and I took her out for a shakedown and things seemed better. She warmed up rather quickly but the fans kicked on this time - Still worrisome because today was a much cooler day than yesterday. I'll drive her to work tomorrow for another test run. I made need to bleed the cooling system.
Cheers
Steve
Removed every coolant hose and pipe. Cleaned and grained all the pipes, very stoked with how they came up. Most importantly I replaced all the heavily swollen and deteriorating rubber hoses with silicone. Took the opportunity to fit a new otterstat as well, nothing wrong with the old one but of course it is old. Refitted everything back in place.
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Wow Tillsy....watching this made me cringe....get rid of those bricks and get some proper ramps! :nervous:Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
Why? Those flat Concrete pavers look extremely solid. It's not like he's using cinder blocks sideways.Quote:
Originally Posted by John U
Just looks unsafe to me...I've heard of too many cars falling off cinder blocks, or hydraulic jacks failing....$100 for a pair of ramps is a small price to payQuote:
Originally Posted by eagle-co94
Those aren't cinder blocks.
yes I know....they are bricksQuote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
forget I even said anything....carry on :mallet:
Attachment 17190
I've used both ramps and bricks. I trust a good solid paving stone more than ramps. As long as you block the wheels she's not going to be rolling anywhere. I have to admit though, my father took a set of those cheap metal ramps and welded so much steel support to them that I'd trust them even after you dropped a semi on them. I hated moving those things though, they weighed nearly 50 lbs each.Quote:
Originally Posted by John U
Since it's raining outside I can't do much. I did go work on those two weird spots where someone sanded the grain out. I went from 120, 80, to a blending pad and I think it helped. I'd get a pic but it went from a drizzle to a downpour. Last night I sprayed some SEM trim black on my side moldings and I think they turned out great. I can't wait for it to dry up so I can put them back on the car.
I finally got 2930 going again! Yay!
The last time I took her out (the dragoncon parade) the cooling fans decided not to turn on. As the temp gauge doesn't work, and I was stuck, I just had to limp home as best as I could.
I started working on it about 2 weeks ago. It wouldn't start. My worst fear was that it'd overheated and the head was shot, so I pulled the intake and did a compression test. The results: PASS! It wasn't great, but it was enough that she should start.
I did notice that the plugs were badly fouled. I re-set the mixture and reassembled everything, voila! She started right up.
I now need to hook up the dwell meter to set the mixture correctly, change the oil, and still fix the *(&@#^ ATF leak.
--buddy
I have four jack stands, but given I had her up for an entire month I didn't want to use those.Quote:
Originally Posted by John U
You are right I do need to get some ramps - those pavers were a last second decision to get the job underway. They are driveway rated though not normal path ones, doesn't make it the smartest of ideas though :)
Stripped down to my VOD. Removed the old water pump and, to my surprise, the new ones needs a lot of assembly so there went a night recycling various bits and pieces from the old one. Installed the new silicone hosing for this area too, including the heater feed, BUT two snapped bolts from the old pump made going any further a disaster.
Attempts to get those snapped bolts out were an utter disaster leaving no choice but to abort. As I was working to a tight schedule (wanted my DeLorean back together again for a BTTF drive-in that was coming up) I was convinced that was now over... (pump is simply being held in place by the hoses in bottom shot)
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Sorry to hear about the broken bolts. I just had to drill 2 bolts out that held in the pump (only the 1 at the bottom came out), if the bolts broke off and are flush dont waste any time and just drill them out. I had to remove the bumper support bracket to have a flush shot. I used time-serts and they worked great and i never have to worry about them again (heli coils are a temp fix usually). I just replaced my hoses and now kinda wish i got silicone, but i bet they are prob out of my very low price range. They do look great!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
Didn't touch the car, but a box of parts from British Wiring showed up in the mail today. :)
Cheers mate - I fumed on it for a couple of nights and continued with other aspects of the work. I then decided to take a punt and remove the rear, drill them out, put the rear back on, and hope it went well and didn't set me back too much more. One ended up (relectantly) coming out with vicegrips once decent access was obtained, the other we tried VERY carefully using a left threaded drillbit but SNAP -now had a broken bolt with an even tougher metal stuck in the middle of it. Caused many hours of stress knowing we made a bad situation worse, but finally fixed the disaster! Next time I won't even bother going the extraction path!Quote:
Originally Posted by krs09
Installed my freshly ceramic coated muffler and reinstalled the rear impact absorber, fascia and alternator. Charged up the battery and took the first spin in 2 weeks. The exhaust seals better than ever with the new band clamp and the car is running great. Also got my JL XD300 amp in the mail, so tomorrow's project is to get that DMC CA sub installed.
Some pics of the muffler:
Before
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And after
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Well worth the money if you ask me!
To help get my mind off the disaster with my snapped water pump bolts I spent several nights moving onto the next tasks - cleaning the VOD, new stainless fuel lines (coated in a gorgeous transparent red), new silicone spark plug leads, spark plugs, injectors, rotor, distributor, Dave's solid state fan control and fan fail relays, replaced the asbestos heat shield with the new stainless one, etc…
This ended up being a great approach as during this time I calmed down about the snapped bolts and simply made the decision I next needed to remove the back of my D to get access to drill the buggers out...
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Those stainless fuel lines looks really nice!
Where did you bought them?
Take your time drilling out those bolts. I had one break and drilled it out without removing the back end. With the back end removed it should help your back and go quicker. Mine took about 6 hours to drill and clean out the treads.
Noticed my new muffler was hanging a little crooked, so I loosened up the clamp and brackets and adjusted it.
Started installing my subwoofer. Was supposed to be easy - I pre-ran all the wires when I did the stereo months ago. It was not to be. The amp didn't fit where I planned it to go, so the wires had to be re-routed. Which required the whole interior to come back out. Then I realized the amp install kit I bought months ago has ring terminals that are too small to fit my battery cut-off switch and an inline fuse that's rated much higher than my amp calls for. Got discouraged and gave up for the night. Back to the car audio shop tomorrow.
My wife and kids let me start early this night and, with the help of a mate, spent until 2am removing the back end and removing the snapped bolts. One of them finally gave with the help of the extra access combined and vicegrips, but the other was a nightmare that turned into an even bigger nightmare at one point that took a few hours to sort. End result was we finally got both bolts out and then reinstalled the rear end.
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(got to see my frame is only four ahead of my VIN)
Cleaned, regrained and polished my car. It had not been detailed in over 10yrs
Top (before)
Bottom (after)
WOW - the difference is night and day, very impressive :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCflux
Thanks Chris!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
After another round of 2:30am finishes I finally got the pump secure and hooked up, refitted intake, fuel mixture unit, hooked up all the new stainless braided hoses to the distributor, throttle remounted, cold start valve reinstalled, and reconnected a crapload of stuff back up.
Got some desperately needed sleep and then tackled the pipe of agony first thing the next morning - thankfully it did not live up to its name for me, got it in third time no worries!
Made some changes to the air induction system during reassembly. I noticed the air inlet box inside the rear right pontoon did not align properly with the elbow that feeds it into the engine bay. No amount of force would correct that so I simply eliminated the elbow and put the feed directly onto the inlet box (as you can see in the montage below it now gets 100% of the flow). I then removed the entire heating splitoff crap and replaced it with a K&N direct feed, plus upgraded to a K&N filter.
And for some "modernisation" I used the stainless sill lettering that I originally purchased for the doors (but didn't use due to instead installing backlit lettering) to replace the sticker on the air filter assembly. Very rapt with how that came up!
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Finished cleaning frame w/ por15 and rustoleum grey