BTTF Time Machine Build Questions - Ask Me Anything

I am really enjoying how different people create these props in their own style.
It would be really interesting to start a thread entitled "Wormhole emitters" or "flux bands"....and see how everyone approached the same individual part. I'll bet there have been some really creative and different approaches used to skin the same cat!

Looking at some of these BTTF builds, I would have to think that the people who spend 50k on professional builds are missing out on a lot of the fun. ( Although if I had an extra 50 grand lying around, I would probably be tempted because those guys do some incredible work)!

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Originally Posted by Bob635

Mark,

Thanks for your accurate description that no BTTF Delorean is Truely "screen accurate" because each A, B, C car was slightly different. And that most Time Machines look new.

I was very impressed with the work done on the A car restoration, but as you know, even this car is not restored to "exactly" how it was used in the movie. (e.g. numbered months.)

One question, I pose to people about the "screen accurate" car. Did the movie give the illusion that the BTTF Delorean was a hot rod engine? Clearly, the exhaust tone was NOT a PRV engine.
So should a "screen accurate" car have a hot rod engine? The "Delorean" in BTTF III was a hot rod engine -albeit a VW- BUT is was not a PRV. So exactly what is a "screen accurate" Time Machine?

What really bothers me with this situation is that there are certain Time Machine owners, who rent their car, and who are going around "bad mouthing" other people's time machines- claiming that theirs is the only "screen accurate" car, making them huge amounts of money and not sharing this benefit with other D owners who had the dedication to do this conversion.

After all these years, since 1995, when I negotiated with Universal Studios to get the permission for people to build Time Machines, without getting sued, now I hear of serious infighting amongst different Time Machine owners. I negotiated this permission for everyone to share, NOT FOR CERTAIN people to hoard.

As for the copies of the invoices for parts, these came from Kevin Pike, way back in the early 1990s, when I was researching and obtaining parts to build the first Time Machine - hot rod- Delorean.

As you know, 2 years ago, I also developed the wheel conversion parts for this car to make it look like a BTTF III car, and reproduced the parts for the Pepsi box, using my 3D printer, and old radio tubes and electronics from the 1950s.

I share this cars with people who come to Delorean Weekend to inspire them to maintain and upgrade their Delorean to "Live the Dream."

Over the years, I have admired all the work you did to develop Time Machine parts, especially with all the LED and PLC components that exist today. I was limited by TTL logic back in the 90s.

My Current "Dream Delorean" project is another attempt to share my experience with other D owners to update their cars. As JZD said to me back in Cleveland when studying my full size power windows. "You a damn good engineer. If I had had more people like you, I would still be in business."

I always remember him saying this to me, and continue to try to live up to his expectations.

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I would absolutely love to see a video of the full power windows.....That must be an engineering marvel! How can you keep the doors balanced????

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Originally Posted by mluder

I used Gary's CAD for min but then modified the bottom pieces to fit around the fascia. Because mine are from gator board I chose to permanently attach them to the main part of the vents. It works for me because I typically have to remove the vents completely to transport the whole thing. I don't drive with it in place so engine access is not an issue for me.
Attachment 48789

BTW - if you are planning on having the engine cover cut our of metal too, make sure you don't forget the little wedges that weld to the edges to create a lip that sits over the ridge in the pontoon - just like the factory cover does.

Here's a more detailed pic of the reactor. Everything here is found at the home center. Note, I didn't worry too much that the plumbing hoses weren't exactly correct. My "oil separators" are empty engine coolant bottles I painted. The cross over tube fittings are PVC plumbing that I shaped on a bet sander, my alum hoses are too big, the hubcap is not screen accurate but was close enough, the reactor top is another hubcap piece, the heat sink fins around the reactor I fabricated from plywood.
Attachment 48790

I have since got the correct hubcap and the Pioneer speaker grille that goes on the tachyon generator (both from E-bay)
Attachment 48791

A close turbine for the top (from a friend) and the rubber mat used for the vent joint and on the tachyon gen (Amazon)
Attachment 48792

The correct heat sinks (direct from supplier)
Attachment 48793

I have found one oil separator (working on finding another) and have the correct aluminum hoses on order.

Let me know if you need any more help.
Cheers
Steven

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That really looks awesome. I cant believe how good it looks from using "every-day" items!

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Originally Posted by cpistocco

I would absolutely love to see a video of the full power windows.....That must be an engineering marvel! How can you keep the doors balanced????

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Here is the link to the 45 minute video on installing full size power windows in a Delorean.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1S5KZhPozJc

Enjoy!

Bob

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Originally Posted by cpistocco

Hello
I was wondering if anyone out there would be able to provide measurements/ dimensions (maybe CAD) for a set of screen-accurate exhaust vents, and engine cover. I intend to use 1/8 inch aluminum. I stumbled on some cad designs by Mr Weaver, but I don't think his are screen accurate ( Exhaust vents do not seem to drop below rear bumper cover). Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Charlie

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I can confirm that from my experience of Mr Weavers CAD file, the rear vents are most definitely inaccurate. They're not bad, they're just not accurate. The screw positions are wrong (look at the screw positions of the rear edge screws, they are not close enough to the rear edge). I am also aware that Mr Weaver purposefully produces inaccuracies (which he shares publically) in order for him to spot people who have used his reference. Hardly useful at all if you are trying to re-produce screen accurate parts. I would certainly recommend clarifying with Mark first if he is able to assist. I would use Mr Weavers CAD file with a great deal of scepticism and caution.

I would love to know if anyone can offer some exact screw measurements and positions for the rear vents though?

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Originally Posted by Bob635

Here is the link to the 45 minute video on installing full size power windows in a Delorean.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1S5KZhPozJc

Enjoy!

Bob

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That was incredible. It reminds me of a photo that I once saw of an early prototype delorean. (I think that this particular car had sliding horizontal windows).

I am working on designing and building "air scoops" that can be placed in the rear of the open toll booth window. These scoops would channel fresh air into the passenger compartment......a much needed "breath of fresh air"!

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Originally Posted by "What The Flux?"

I can confirm that from my experience of Mr Weavers CAD file, the rear vents are most definitely inaccurate. They're not bad, they're just not accurate. The screw positions are wrong (look at the screw positions of the rear edge screws, they are not close enough to the rear edge). I am also aware that Mr Weaver purposefully produces inaccuracies (which he shares publically) in order for him to spot people who have used his reference. Hardly useful at all if you are trying to re-produce screen accurate parts. I would certainly recommend clarifying with Mark first if he is able to assist. I would use Mr Weavers CAD file with a great deal of scepticism and caution.

I would love to know if anyone can offer some exact screw measurements and positions for the rear vents though?

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I had this discussion with Mark on the previous page (pg16). It would appear that Mr Weaver's exhaust vent designs are the best (and only) available on this forum. Please let me know if I am wrong.
Thanks
Charlie

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Originally Posted by cpistocco

I had this discussion with Mark on the previous page (pg16). It would appear that Mr Weaver's exhaust vent designs are the best (and only) available on this forum. Please let me know if I am wrong.
Thanks
Charlie

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Unfortunately, to some degree I would say that you are correct... for now. I definitely wouldn't consider them "the best", I'm sure there are many other people who have far more accurate information that is not in the public domain. Having seen Mark taking very precise measurements of the rear vents on the OUTATIME restoration documentary (which I HIGHLY recommend if you don't have it already!), I would really say that he is the true authority when it comes to the accuracy of the rear vents. If it helps the community, I don't mind adding dimensions to Mr Weavers CAD designs and asking if Mark would kindly verify/approve/amend the measurments as necessary (if he has the time or inclination of course!). I'm sure it would be very helpful to at least have some useful dimensions locked down for the rear vents.

At the moment I do not have the ability to share all of the rear vent info related to the restoration. I did have the opportunity to measure the aluminum parts that make up the rear deck, vents, bulkhead, brackets, etc. but it's a lot of information in bits and pieces that isn't assembled yet in one master file. Some of the CAD files that I created have 'markups' that require corrections based comparisons made to the actual parts. The eventual plan is to make the final updates, put everything together on a CD, and the files will become a companion disc to a time machine related book that is in the works.

In addition to the files not being complete or updated to 100% accuracy, there are licensing issues to sort though with Universal.... so my hands are tied for several reasons.

Without getting into too much detail about what's different with Weaver's files vs the actual A car, I can say that some of the parts in his layout look to be designed to make the overall build simpler and easier to build than the A car was. It means less accuracy overall, but probably made it easier to build multiple replicas. For example, the louvers that attach to the rearmost part of the vents are supposed to be made from 6 individual squares of aluminum (per vent) mounted with two small pieces of angle aluminum per square, and two button head cap screws per angle. When all said and done it's a hell of a lot of clamping parts, welding plates to angle stock, drilling and tapping holes, etc. Weaver looks like he cut down on the number of pieces by making slotted plates that interlock together. Not accurate, but saves time if you're trying to build more than one replica and don't mind the parts being slightly different than the A car.

If you're looking for a good starting point to jump off from, Weaver's file is good place to start. There are ways to modify what he's shared to be more accurate as others have mentioned.

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Originally Posted by Mark D

At the moment I do not have the ability to share all of the rear vent info related to the restoration. I did have the opportunity to measure the aluminum parts that make up the rear deck, vents, bulkhead, brackets, etc. but it's a lot of information in bits and pieces that isn't assembled yet in one master file. Some of the CAD files that I created have 'markups' that require corrections based comparisons made to the actual parts. The eventual plan is to make the final updates, put everything together on a CD, and the files will become a companion disc to a time machine related book that is in the works.

In addition to the files not being complete or updated to 100% accuracy, there are licensing issues to sort though with Universal.... so my hands are tied for several reasons.

Without getting into too much detail about what's different with Weaver's files vs the actual A car, I can say that some of the parts in his layout look to be designed to make the overall build simpler and easier to build than the A car was. It means less accuracy overall, but probably made it easier to build multiple replicas. For example, the louvers that attach to the rearmost part of the vents are supposed to be made from 6 individual squares of aluminum (per vent) mounted with two small pieces of angle aluminum per square, and two button head cap screws per angle. When all said and done it's a hell of a lot of clamping parts, welding plates to angle stock, drilling and tapping holes, etc. Weaver looks like he cut down on the number of pieces by making slotted plates that interlock together. Not accurate, but saves time if you're trying to build more than one replica and don't mind the parts being slightly different than the A car.

If you're looking for a good starting point to jump off from, Weaver's file is good place to start. There are ways to modify what he's shared to be more accurate as others have mentioned.

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OK Thanks
I am about to spend quite a few dollars on aluminum and laser cutting, and I just want to make sure that I am doing the right thing. For our purposes, Mr Weaver is as good as it gets???? Correct?

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Originally Posted by "What The Flux?"

Unfortunately, to some degree I would say that you are correct... for now. I definitely wouldn't consider them "the best", I'm sure there are many other people who have far more accurate information that is not in the public domain. Having seen Mark taking very precise measurements of the rear vents on the OUTATIME restoration documentary (which I HIGHLY recommend if you don't have it already!), I would really say that he is the true authority when it comes to the accuracy of the rear vents. If it helps the community, I don't mind adding dimensions to Mr Weavers CAD designs and asking if Mark would kindly verify/approve/amend the measurments as necessary (if he has the time or inclination of course!). I'm sure it would be very helpful to at least have some useful dimensions locked down for the rear vents.

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It would be great if you could provide me with the additional dimensions. The more info, the better...

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Originally Posted by cpistocco

OK Thanks
I am about to spend quite a few dollars on aluminum and laser cutting, and I just want to make sure that I am doing the right thing. For our purposes, Mr Weaver is as good as it gets???? Correct?

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I'm afraid for now, yes. I can definitely make some minor improvements right off the bat and if you're willing to hold fire for a minute, I can make the improvements and upload them here. An example of Mr Weavers inaccuracy is the rear plate of the part that the two oil sepators are attached to. Mr Weavers CAD file has that plate as vertical, perpendicular to the base. However, this plate is angled slightly on the A car. Unless I am mistaken, Mr Weaver did this purposefully so that he could spot "tells" that a builder had used his reference. Not cool if you're going for screen accuracy.

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Originally Posted by "What The Flux?"

I'm afraid for now, yes. I can definitely make some minor improvements right off the bat and if you're willing to hold fire for a minute, I can make the improvements and upload them here. An example of Mr Weavers inaccuracy is the rear plate of the part that the two oil sepators are attached to. Mr Weavers CAD file has that plate as vertical, perpendicular to the base. However, this plate is angled slightly on the A car. Unless I am mistaken, Mr Weaver did this purposefully so that he could spot "tells" that a builder had used his reference. Not cool if you're going for screen accuracy.

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Thanks a million. I actually spoke with Mr Weaver on Facebook about this matter. He was very nice....and stated that his design was close, but not 100%...

After 15 years it never gets old seeing random anonymous people chime in with their expertise and act as if they know my motivations.

-Gary

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Originally Posted by "What The Flux?"

I can confirm that from my experience of Mr Weavers CAD file, the rear vents are most definitely inaccurate. They're not bad, they're just not accurate. The screw positions are wrong (look at the screw positions of the rear edge screws, they are not close enough to the rear edge). I am also aware that Mr Weaver purposefully produces inaccuracies (which he shares publically) in order for him to spot people who have used his reference. Hardly useful at all if you are trying to re-produce screen accurate parts. I would certainly recommend clarifying with Mark first if he is able to assist. I would use Mr Weavers CAD file with a great deal of scepticism and caution.

I would love to know if anyone can offer some exact screw measurements and positions for the rear vents though?

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Originally Posted by Gary Weaver II

After 15 years it never gets old seeing random anonymous people chime in with their expertise and act as if they know my motivations.

-Gary

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I'm not about to tarnish yet another thread with stale, tired, boring arguments. There have been far too many useful threads ruined by the public disputes of Mr Weaver and others in the past.

My "chiming in" is to use the knowledge and expertise that I have learned over the years to help other builders and to learn new things myself. I may be random, anonymous and relatively new to this site, but I am definitely not new to the community or unaware of its history.

Mr Weaver, I know of your motivations far more than you are willing to confess to on an open and public forum. Whilst I will not dispute your willingness and effort to genuinely help other people/builders in the community (for free), it must also be said that you are very clearly motivated by money and the "business" of selling other builders your (hoarded) parts, often for substantial profit.

To return to my earlier points in this thread, I know for a fact (and so do you!) that you have purposefully left details inaccurate in your .dwg file to enable you to be able to tell who has used your material as reference. You yourself know from your own experience the amount of time and effort that it takes to research and discover accurate reference material, so for you to release a file that you know contains inaccurate information, just so that you can spot it later in somebody's build is deceptive and IMHO, kinda lame.

As I said at the start of this comment, I do not wish to engage in a bitter debate with you and don't even necessarily think that you're a bad guy, even if I do disagree with you releasing bogus material to the public.

The "I don't wanna fight, but will still throw a few barbs in my commentary" technique. Classy and predictable.

The sad fact of the matter is, the files I released were always posted as incomplete and a starting point for someone's build. I knew damn good and well they were incomplete/unfinished and am totally upfront with it.

I always intended to go back and rework certain details as I had more time and even perhaps add dimensions. However, I never went back on it because I realized there is not much of a point in giving that stuff away to people and I also didn't have the time or desire to revisit old projects.

I take issue with a few points you've brought up over the course of this thread, so please allow me to assist in clarifying a few things.

"Hoarding parts"? When have I ever? Can you please give an example or are you just making something up for effect?

"Putting tells in my files or on my parts". I've never done that intentionally in order to identify them as you stated earlier. I did my parts how I wanted to do my parts. Sometimes that meant doing parts a different way like the rear slotted vent louvres Mark pointed out. Or doing something for a casting to make it more reinforced for final castings. If those end up being details I can identify later when I see someone selling a cheap knock off or recast on their website, then so be it.

The front vertical plate on the reactor core? I finally figured it out after a while, but decided to just leave it in place on my file. To be honest, it was never a detailed I cared about too much. It's not like people go around yelling "see how PERFECT my car is? I have this bizarre angled plate no one can ever see or care about". Again, I didn't see too much of a reason to revisit that part of the project so never corrected it.

My lower rear plates on the vents? Designed like that on purpose so they can be cut down and trimmed to properly fit around the rear fascia and tail lights. It's IMPOSSIBLE to have one profile (or even four) to properly contour the rear of every Delorean. The end result needs a builder to change them to fit their own car and application. No conspiracy theory about tells or crap like that. Just being practical with the design.

I'm sure you've said more about other stuff in this thread, but those were the things that stuck out to me. I'd love to discuss it further, but I get the impression that's not your end goal here. Until you are willing to share with everyone exactly WHO you are I don't see any point to continue discussion here.

-Gary

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Originally Posted by "What The Flux?"

I'm not about to tarnish yet another thread with stale, tired, boring arguments. There have been far too many useful threads ruined by the public disputes of Mr Weaver and others in the past.

My "chiming in" is to use the knowledge and expertise that I have learned over the years to help other builders and to learn new things myself. I may be random, anonymous and relatively new to this site, but I am definitely not new to the community or unaware of its history.

Mr Weaver, I know of your motivations far more than you are willing to confess to on an open and public forum. Whilst I will not dispute your willingness and effort to genuinely help other people/builders in the community (for free), it must also be said that you are very clearly motivated by money and the "business" of selling other builders your (hoarded) parts, often for substantial profit.

To return to my earlier points in this thread, I know for a fact (and so do you!) that you have purposefully left details inaccurate in your .dwg file to enable you to be able to tell who has used your material as reference. You yourself know from your own experience the amount of time and effort that it takes to research and discover accurate reference material, so for you to release a file that you know contains inaccurate information, just so that you can spot it later in somebody's build is deceptive and IMHO, kinda lame.

As I said at the start of this comment, I do not wish to engage in a bitter debate with you and don't even necessarily think that you're a bad guy, even if I do disagree with you releasing bogus material to the public.

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Mods, since this topic is starting to derail can you please move some of these discussions to a more appropriate thread? Either create a new split topic off of this one or move to this old thread:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?76...place-to-start

A new thread may be a more appropriate place to have some of the discussions that are happening since that old thread is locked and what's being discussed here is no longer related to the original intent of this thread.

A lists of post numbers to please move includes 156-160, 163, 165, 167-176.

Thank you.

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Originally Posted by Gary Weaver II

I don't see any point to continue discussion here.

-Gary

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I have made my point perfectly clear and I don't see any point to continue this discussion either...

Attachment 48942 Attachment 48943

That is so cute. Pictures without context to "prove" your point. I still get a giggle out of that Krups pic. Here are some details are of course missing from your pics.

That's about 15 years worth of Krups grinder searches and hunts. Incomplete torn up units missing lids or cups, wrong color units, and a couple complete ones. A few weren't even mine if I recall correctly.

As for the Flux Capacitor Rob Roy boxes... Incorrect model, but happened to be the correct color. I believe I paid market price for those as well. I then spent a good number of months buying incorrect sized boxes with the correct latches off ebay to make them accurate. Also custom fabricated the correct hinges as well. The had all the backer boards, lenses, and windows laser cut. That was about two years ago IIRC.

And what's even more hilarious? I've haven't sold a one. I'm pretty sure those and all their add on bits are still sitting in my garage. Hard to argue that I've ripped anyone off or made any money off that "hoard".

More intriguing is that this community still doesn't know who you are. Nice of Mark to make his plea to remove the posts though. All I'm doing is responding truthfully to your disruptive commentary. It's almost as if you are sitting there waiting for me to respond to you baits in order to post things you feel may be publicly "damaging" to me.

It's not like we haven't seen that happen around here before :)

-Gary

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Originally Posted by "What The Flux?"

I have made my point perfectly clear and I don't see any point to continue this discussion either...

Attachment 48942 Attachment 48943

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Just to clarify, I would not like anything to be removed (as in deleted). Mods please just split this thread so that the off topic discussion can continue elsewhere.

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Originally Posted by Mark D

Just to clarify, I would not like anything to be removed (as in deleted). Mods please just split this thread so that the off topic discussion can continue elsewhere.

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I have no problem with that idea. However, I really don't see much of a benefit at all in trying to have a rational discussion with a ghost :) The mods can outright delete that stuff if they want to.

-Gary

I'm just gonna quietly tip-toe outtta here... :)

I'd kind of like to know who the mystery man is myself. Easy to call out someone's work and integrity via the internet when you can remain anonymous. :thumbdown:

My identity is of absolute insignificance to this site. I am not here to discuss my identity, I am here purely to discuss the A car, help fellow users (if I can) and learn interesting facts about the restoration from Mark D.

I have made comments with regard to the accuracy of Mr Weavers rear vent information (.dwg file) because the question was raised by another user. I have stated that the information is inaccurate and also that I am aware that Mr Weaver purposefully shared inaccurate information to be able to tell (at a later date) if a build was made using his reference. I am able to make both of these statements because I know with 100% fact (including evidence) that this was (one of) Mr Weavers motivations for leaving the information inaccurate. Whatever Mr Weaver states contrary to what I know to be factual is not only worthless, but absolutely pointless of further debate. (I do not waste my time debating with people who I know are being dishonest).

That is my last statement on the subject and I will not be coerced by either Mr Weaver or any of his affiliates (or anyone else) to discuss it further.

So what you're saying is that you won't tell this board who you are? Kinda makes you and the points you were trying to raise somewhat... pointless.

Honestly, that's fine by me. I see no point in trying to prove myself to a ghost.

Your comments serve no purpose but to cause problems which I strongly suspect was your goal all along.

Mods feel free to delete anything that you see fit to get Mark's thread back on course.

Thanks for playing.

-Gary

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Originally Posted by "What The Flux?"

My identity is of absolute insignificance to this site. I am not here to discuss my identity, I am here purely to discuss the A car, help fellow users (if I can) and learn interesting facts about the restoration from Mark D.

I have made comments with regard to the accuracy of Mr Weavers rear vent information (.dwg file) because the question was raised by another user. I have stated that the information is inaccurate and also that I am aware that Mr Weaver purposefully shared inaccurate information to be able to tell (at a later date) if a build was made using his reference. I am able to make both of these statements because I know with 100% fact (including evidence) that this was (one of) Mr Weavers motivations for leaving the information inaccurate. Whatever Mr Weaver states contrary to what I know to be factual is not only worthless, but absolutely pointless of further debate. (I do not waste my time debating with people who I know are being dishonest).

That is my last statement on the subject and I will not be coerced by either Mr Weaver or any of his affiliates (or anyone else) to discuss it further.

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Originally Posted by EngineerGuY

I'd kind of like to know who the mystery man is myself. Easy to call out someone's work and integrity via the internet when you can remain anonymous. :thumbdown:

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Certainly not the first rodeo for me and I doubt it will be the last. Some people just have nothing better to do than hide behind anonymous accounts and sock-puppets.

-Gary

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Originally Posted by "What The Flux?"

My identity is of absolute insignificance to this site. I am not here to discuss my identity, I am here purely to discuss the A car, help fellow users (if I can) and learn interesting facts about the restoration from Mark D.

I have made comments with regard to the accuracy of Mr Weavers rear vent information (.dwg file) because the question was raised by another user. I have stated that the information is inaccurate and also that I am aware that Mr Weaver purposefully shared inaccurate information to be able to tell (at a later date) if a build was made using his reference. I am able to make both of these statements because I know with 100% fact (including evidence) that this was (one of) Mr Weavers motivations for leaving the information inaccurate. Whatever Mr Weaver states contrary to what I know to be factual is not only worthless, but absolutely pointless of further debate. (I do not waste my time debating with people who I know are being dishonest).

That is my last statement on the subject and I will not be coerced by either Mr Weaver or any of his affiliates (or anyone else) to discuss it further.

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This makes no sense... Why would Gary put intentionally put inaccuracies in his drawings to catch people using his material and then turn around and release that material to the general public? To what end? That's like leaving a $20 bill on the ground and announcing if any one wants it to take it, and then getting mad at someone for taking it.

I've had a few interactions with Gary and even bought something from him. His price was fair and I actually received more than I expected.
I have also used his drawings and they worked perfectly... I've no complaints. If the screws are in the wrong spot or other minor inconsistencies it's on my best interest as a builder to verify and modify as I see fit. Otherwise they seem perfectly serviceable. Kudos to him for being so generous... I guarantee you that guy in Dallas isn't sharing anything.

Cheers
Steve

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Originally Posted by mluder

This makes no sense... Why would Gary put intentionally put inaccuracies in his drawings to catch people using his material and then turn around and release that material to the general public? To what end? That's like leaving a $20 bill on the ground and announcing if any one wants it to take it, and then getting mad at someone for taking it.

I've had a few interactions with Gary and even bought something from him. His price was fair and I actually received more than I expected.
I have also used his drawings and they worked perfectly... I've no complaints. If the screws are in the wrong spot or other minor inconsistencies it's on my best interest as a builder to verify and modify as I see fit. Otherwise they seem perfectly serviceable. Kudos to him for being so generous... I guarantee you that guy in Dallas isn't sharing anything.

Cheers
Steve

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Spot on! :cheers:

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Originally Posted by mluder

This makes no sense... Why would Gary put intentionally put inaccuracies in his drawings to catch people using his material and then turn around and release that material to the general public? To what end? That's like leaving a $20 bill on the ground and announcing if any one wants it to take it, and then getting mad at someone for taking it.

I've had a few interactions with Gary and even bought something from him. His price was fair and I actually received more than I expected.
I have also used his drawings and they worked perfectly... I've no complaints. If the screws are in the wrong spot or other minor inconsistencies it's on my best interest as a builder to verify and modify as I see fit. Otherwise they seem perfectly serviceable. Kudos to him for being so generous... I guarantee you that guy in Dallas isn't sharing anything.

Cheers
Steve

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Well said that man.

Gary W, has been helpful to me whenever I've had a question on replica building (as have others) and you can't deny the guy has talent. Just my pennies worth...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2b07a953a4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c4f423884b.jpg

Can I ask who made up the Perspex cover for the TFC during the restoration? As they deserve to be shot!... lol.

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Originally Posted by minispeedstar

Can I ask who made up the Perspex cover for the TFC during the restoration? As they deserve to be shot!... lol.

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Can you be more specific? If you're saying there is something off, then what are you referring to? The shape? Fitment?

Doesn't appear to have been shaped very well, almost bulging around the top and sides, the overhang and also the fact it's split / corner missing by one of the screw holes.. wondered if it was more to be screen accurate but after looking at screen shots realised it isn't?...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4571876a02.jpg

Hello Mark
I have come to the conclusion that I will use Mr Weaver's Cad design. Is there any way that you (or someone else on the forum) could outline precisely which pieces are part of the exhausts. I am going to build those first (from 1/8 in aluminum).
Thank you...as always....for all of your assistance.
-Charlie

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Originally Posted by cpistocco

Hello Mark
I have come to the conclusion that I will use Mr Weaver's Cad design. Is there any way that you (or someone else on the forum) could outline precisely which pieces are part of the exhausts. I am going to build those first (from 1/8 in aluminum).
Thank you...as always....for all of your assistance.
-Charlie

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If you want to just build the vents then cut everything on his layout minus those marked with a red X.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...4&d=1487695302

I would advise cutting everything at once though since you will typically be charged a minimum fee for a run of parts and it'll be cheaper to do it all at once vs multiple runs of parts. You'll at least want the engine deck as well as the vents so you have something to mount the vents to.

Just as important as having the piece parts for the vents are how the parts are supposed to be assembled. IE: how parts overlap, if corners are edge to edge or corner to corner when welding, etc. For that you'll need to contact Weaver since he designed the parts and knows how they are supposed to go together. I'm also not sure how his vents are intended to mount to the engine cover either.

For anyone else with questions regarding Weaver's layout please contact him directly on his facebook page

Mark, could you elaborate on these various hoses? Part numbers, correct length, proper fittings, stock vs modified, correct diameter, etc. Thanks in advance!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...067a2e06d6.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5ff6c578b7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a64020d73b.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...12e222d85b.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0653421abd.jpg

I could probably write a book just on all the hoses used... there is a lot to know about each one individually but I'll start with some basic info. A few are still available but most are either NLA or prohibitively expensive for the casual time machine builder. I've spent more time than I care to admit running NSN searches to find hoses that are close that can be cut apart and made to look correct. Most were originally purchased from Luky's in Burbank, CA. This place can still cut and crimp hose ends so if you find hoses with the right fittings but are too long, or only have one correct fitting you can frankenstein multiple hoses into one good one.

A while back I was talking with another member on the board and he created this image of the rear deck and assigned letters to each hose:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...4&d=1487775963

"A" - Hydraflow Bulkhead Hose(s) - These can be purchased to original spec direct from hydraflow. Super expensive though...like 300 bucks per hose. Need one on the side of the car and the same hose is mounted next to the flux capacitor in the inside of the car. The end fittings and crimping ferrules have slightly changed over the years but are pretty much the same as vintage hoses.

"B.1 and B.2" - Vent to Bulkhead - Large hoses from the side of the vents to the bulkhead are different PN's for each side. These can still be made to spec from the original supplier, I don't have the info handy at the moment for the supplier, but if you're interested I can dig it up. I think each hose was a couple hundred bucks.

"C" - Hydraflow Janitrol hose - This simply inserts into the Janitrol and the other end connects to a custom welded pipe fitting/bulkhead connector that is screwed into the bulkhead. The hose itself is similar to hose A but is a larger size. Same green nomex casing over the hose.

"D" - Flexible Aluminum Duct - Can be purchased from NAPA and other auto parts stores, pretty standard emissions hose.

"E" - Oil Separator to Trapezoid Hoses - These have to be hand made from scratch and are a huge pain in the ass to make correctly. Metal flexible inner hose covered by a special SS woven double outer braid. We've had to machine end fittings from scratch since they are not available anywhere.

"F" - Weatherhead crossover tube - Used to be plentiful at Luky's but have not been available for a long time. People have made castings of these that look just as real as the originals. The end fittings can be painted with "Metalcast" anodizing paint.

"G" - Vent to Vent - Small black inboard hoses w/ 45 deg fittings that bridge across the black strip on the vents. These also came from Luky's and no longer exist. The set I have was custom made by butchering together various different hoses that had the correct end fittings.

"H" - Reactor Duct - Black corrugated ducting connected to plastic/PVC elbows painted silver. Each requires a different type of clamp. Lots more to know on the hose and clamps. If you want accuracy.

"I" - "Vent to Deck" - Small stainless hoses with 90 fittings originally came from Luky's. These don't exist anymore either with the correct type of end fittings. The set I have was butchered together using longer hoses with the fittings cut off and then crimped back on a shorter hose.

"J" - CAT Ducting - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cat.php - I'll have to look up the correct size. This same ducting is used on the interior of the car along the center console.

"K" - Orange and black exhaust duct - Connects to 90 deg elbow on flux capacitor through the bulkhead.


OTHERS NOT LABELED:

Hydraflow reactor hoses - These are the four reactor hoses that connect around the ring of the reactor and fit between the heatsinks. The far ends connect to the oil separators. These can be purchased from hydraflow or XRP to specs that are close to the originals. $100-$200 per hose though. Vintage ones are almost impossible to find in the the correct size, AN-5 so AN-6 reproduction are one option. The correct hoses have a single black spiral tracer that runs the length of the hose, the repros are either solid green or have a double yellow tracer.

Orange tube - Connects Janitrol to Zero can on rear bulkhead - Flexible Air intake duct. Not sure if the supplier for these have dried up or not.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark D

I could probably write a book just on all the hoses used... there is a lot to know about each one individually but I'll start with some basic info. A few are still available but most are either NLA or prohibitively expensive for the casual time machine builder. I've spent more time than I care to admit running NSN searches to find hoses that are close that can be cut apart and made to look correct. Most were originally purchased from Luky's in Burbank, CA. This place can still cut and crimp hose ends so if you find hoses with the right fittings but are too long, or only have one correct fitting you can frankenstein multiple hoses into one good one.

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^^^^^^This is AWESOME!^^^^^^
Thanks
Steve

One hose not listed (due to the lightning rod holder in it's place) is this guy:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...42d320756b.jpg

I believe it is Aeroquip type/brand. A quick search for aeroquip on EBay pulls up both hoses and end fittings.. many look pretty close to the screen used. Mark, do you know the proper sizes for these fittings?

I will definitely attempt to frankenstein parts together. As you've mentioned the real hoses are either rare or crazy expensive.

Hi Mark, I was wondering if you know who's BTTF Delorean was at the Oscars with Michael J. Fox last night. Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drewguillory

One hose not listed (due to the lightning rod holder in it's place) is this guy:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...42d320756b.jpg

I believe it is Aeroquip type/brand. A quick search for aeroquip on EBay pulls up both hoses and end fittings.. many look pretty close to the screen used. Mark, do you know the proper sizes for these fittings?

I will definitely attempt to frankenstein parts together. As you've mentioned the real hoses are either rare or crazy expensive.

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Hey Drew,

The red/silver hose is Aeroquip brand PN 601021L0150. It would be a miracle to find one of these in the wild, so you'll be more likely to build one with the correct hose and end fittings. The hose and fittings are AN size -12, although the flange fitting on the 90 deg end is a size -20 flange. In total you'll need:

1x Flare Fitting (Straight end with blue nut) 816-12D
2X Sockets (Red hex part that screws onto fittings and captures the hose) 516-12D
~16" of wire braided hose 601-12D
1X Blue mounting flange for 90 deg end 9644-20D

And last but not least the actual 90 deg flange fitting, 8585-14-12-20D. You'll probably have zero luck finding one of these so you have a few different options:

Use a regular 90 deg fitting (standard flare) and remove the blue nut. You can mount the standard 90 deg end directly to the 'trapezoid' instead of using the blue flange to hole it in place. The diameter of the regular 90 deg flare end will be but a fraction of the diameter of the blue -20 flange mount, so you can also weld/braze on an aluminum disc and paint the fitting red with anodizing paint to make it look more accurate. Or you can just leave the 90 deg end as-is and just rigid mount the hose itself into place and put the blue flange around the hose end making it appear that the flange is actually holding it there.

You can also get a size -12 flange fitting and modify that with a larger -20 end on it which will give you a more accurate look than modifying the -12 standard flare fitting. There would be welding/brazing involved here as well.

To mount the straight end of the hose to the aluminum bulkhead production fabricated a pipe coupler welded to a strip of bar stock (steel) and then threaded the straight hose fitting on to it. The coupler is held onto the bulkhead with a couple of screws.

Hope that info helps. It's a little complicated to describe without having many pictures on hand. If you need something more visual to get what I'm trying to describe let me know.

As far as cost goes for all the pieces you can still expect to spend somewhere between $100-$200 in parts to build the hose.