I designed a new way to prop up the engine cover. My new louvre struts prevent me from using the DMC cutout in the louvre brace.
Attachment 34895
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I designed a new way to prop up the engine cover. My new louvre struts prevent me from using the DMC cutout in the louvre brace.
Attachment 34895
Which strut are you using?
Grady's new struts. They are a good product. He made them to OEM specs, so the originals ones were the same length.
Finally got all of the car put back together today. New DMCH fuel pump combo unit went in on Thursday night. Removed the fuel filter and flipped my DPI fuel feed line around so the swivel fitting was on the distributor end today, reinstalled the fuel tank closing plate, put the new connector on my warm up regulator, new battery installed, and filled the tank for the first time with 6 fresh gallons of fuel.
I was SO ready to fire up the engine for the first time. I jumped the RPM relay, and can hear the fuel pump running, and if you crawl under the car you could hear the gas returning,completing the loop back to the tank. Fuel gauge rose to the half way mark with the key in the ignition. Tried starting the car. It cranks, and cranks, but does not fire over. I could feel the idle speed motor vibrating (I assume that's good), didn't see any leaks anywhere, but still would not start. The air mixture metering plate violently swung up and down as we cranked the car. Couldn't smell any gas at the rear of the car, or any hint of gas from the exhaust pipes. Couldn't hear any "buzzing" from the frequency valve. I've never heard it before, so I'm not real sure what it should sound like.
Posted on facebook my dilemma, and Josh form DPI called me about 30 minutes later. He suggested to pull the main ignition wire from the coil and check for as spark. Did that, and we've got a spark there. Pulled the connectors off of the ballast resistor and cleaned the terminals. Tried again... still nothing.
I can't even tell if I'm getting gas back to the injectors. I guess my next step might be to pull the injectors and test them? The car sat untouched for 20 years, so I pulled the injectors and soaked them in Berryman's B12 for 2 months while I was doing everything else.
Any suggestions?
That suggests fuel pressure problem. Did you mix up the pressure and return lines at the pump?Quote:
Originally Posted by bfloyd
Was your car running before you replaced the fuel pump?
The FV will not buzz with just the fuel pump jumpered. The correct jumper (or use the RPM relay) would be, brown wire to white/purple (fuel pump) and brown wire to double yellow/red (lambda power).
I would not yet assume you are getting fuel returning to the tank as you mentioned if only listening for it. You may be right, but there are some other noises with the car that could fool you into thinking something is correct when indeed it isn't.Quote:
Originally Posted by bfloyd
That being said, if you have spark, you have spark, so lets leave that for a minute.
Same with air. If you have the air inlet housing right off the engine, I can't imagine you are starving the engine of air at the moment.
So for fuel, start at the pump and confirm connections, both plumbing and electrical. And take and post pictures here if you can as I for one am more visual and others too might spot something not right that writing about won't mention.
Check the pump outlet (and return to tank) connections are joined up with the right hardline going back to the rear of the car.
Did you do any work on the accumulator? Can you get under there at least enough with your arm outstretched to take a picture or two of that?
You mentioned flipping a hose or fitting around at the filter and I'm not sure what you meant by that. If something was accidently going in the outlet and nothing was coming out the outlet, it might explain why you aren't getting any fuel back there. Post a picture of your fuel filter taken from underneath if possible.
Take a couple photos of the top of the engine showing the electrical connections of the ignition and idle components. Vacuum hoses too. If you can wiggle your camera to the back of the engine (towards the front of the car), take a photo looking down and back at the vacuum advance solenoid. We had a local owners car not fire up recently when his solenoid had died internally. It popped a fuse when trying so that's another thing for you to check is see if any fuses in your car are blown.
Try a burst of starting fluid while cranking the engine over. This will confirm ignition, speak of which make sure the coil wire didn't accidentally get knocked of the distributor cap. That happened to me once when I had been working in the area and didn't realize I had inadvertently knocked it off. Imagine my surprise when I went to start the engine and nothing happened.
If it fires on starting fluid and dies. Move to flow checking the injectors.
Spoke with Josh from DPI earlier this morning, like many of you said, he said it sounds like it's starving for fuel. He asked me specifically about the plunger / piston in the fuel distributor and said it should easily fall out if there's nothing under it to support it. It doesn't. If it gets pressed up into the body of the distributor, it just kind of stays there. I cleaned it when I had everything apart, and from what i could tell it wasn't scratched in any way, and I've never dropped it.
He said to pull the injectors and test them in bottles, and if that doesn't work, it may point to the fuel distributor needing to be rebuilt.
Tried starting fluid.... and it fired right up, ran for a few seconds and died. So now I know that the spark is good, the ignition wires and related bits are good. Still starving for fuel. Pulling the injectors is the next step.
When you jumped the rpm relay to run the fuel pump, did you check to see if there was pressure on the air meter flap?
You said earlier the the plate moved up and down violently while cranking. If you had pressure resistance it should not move like that.