I've had fingerprints on mine in the past that just would not come off, no matter what cleaner I used. I eventually had to use a scotchbrite pad to sand them off. I have no idea what the person had on their hands, maybe sun tan lotion or something.
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Got my glove box light and switch repaired. They work fine now. Also installed new speakers in the front.
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Still sorting out the troubleshooting on the engine. I was actually able to get it started several days in a row last week, and thought those issues were behind me.
It would start out rough, with very little power, and pressing the accelerator seemed to have no influence whatsoever. On Thursday, I got it to run for about 5 minutes straight, and then when it warmed up, it's like the engine woke up and I could rev the engine by moving the throttle spool with my hand. It smoked a little, but nothing major. I need to bleed the radiator since I can tell the coolant isn't moving around. The engine does have coolant in it. No coolant in the oil.
Went out Saturday morning to bleed the radiator and take if off the jack stands and ramps. Would not start at all. Wouldn't even start with starting fluid. I guess I'm back to square one on this thing.
made sure it was still in the garage.
Discovered this little fecker living in my front wing. At least he keeps all the McFlys away.
Ayyyyyy!
http://i.imgur.com/so6RtFL.jpg
Yesterday started converting another owners DeLorean AC to R134a.
First ran pressure tests and his unit pressures looked good with the remaining R12 but vent temps were only 78 deg. (outside air temp was 88 deg.)
Pulled the compressor to drain the oil. None came out of the compressor but it seemed to turn fine with no grinding noises.:(
Pulled the accumulator and high pressure hub. The orifice tube came out without a problem and the screen on it was perfectly clean (looked bran new).
My friend had bought Hervey's hose kit so I started with that large low side hose knowing the problems I had doing my hose. Sure enough, I could not get that end of the hose past the first bottom plate nut. The edges of Hervey's hose crimp had pushed the metal ring up higher than the hose thickness and left a very sharp edge. So I filed that end of the crimp ring down to the hose. It then pushed in pretty easy down to that area when the under body turns so the hose has to pass by that angle. No matter how I pushed and twisted, that pipe on the hose would not clear that angle. Left that hose to do later.
I flushed the condenser and evaporator. Evaporator needed a little air pressure to get the solvent to flow through it. I’m guessing it had oil in it blocking the flow.
Not much problem running the hub hose, new accumulator and high side hose.
Called it a day. That 8 hours of work takes it’s toll on my 62 year old body.
Thinking I may try to bend that pipe a little on the low side hose so it can clear that angle.
Started to hunt down electrical gremlins.
I recently got notified by my landlord that my courtesy light was on. I checked the seating of the doors and they were properly closed. I opened the door and tested the plunger switches/door ajar switches. The light went off right away, but it was supposed to dim after 20 sec with Bitsyncmasters LED dimmer relay.
I started the car and the lights reversed to normal operation (dimming properly).
The other day I opened the door and frunk but no light came on. I started the car expecting the battery to be dead but it started fine (with some pushing of the gas pedal, like always after a few days rest). Still no lights. I put the LMS into first position and all lights came on (frunk, courtesy, etc.). Courtesy also dimmed properly. Locked the car again.
Checked yesterday and the courtesy lights were on again. They went off when I opened the door. Frunk light did not come on. Engine compartment light did not come on. Checked the relay compartment and found a tap on a thin white cable attached to the main relay but it did not seem related. Also noticed for the first time some weird wiring that looks like PO, but I will check this weekend. Pulled Bitsyncmaster's dimmer relay. Checked cabeling. Everything good.
Noticed that the car powered on all dash lights as if I would put the key into first position when I puched the main relay in towards its top on the connectors. Probably unrelated.
Even starting the car and pushing in the LMS did not bring the lights back. They are all fed through fuse 12. This one is ok. The cable from fuse 12 needs to get split for the LED dimmer installation, but everything looked fine. Noticed that lights (courtesy, door, frunk, engine compartment) came on when putting key to first position. The circuit board diagram told me that this can happen if there is no constant power on fuse 12 as it then routes the 12V from the ignition circuit. Had no volt meter at hand and wife was bugging me to finally come back into the house. Installed LED dimmer module again and all seemed fine.
Closed doors and waited until light went off (20 sec). put the car cover on and did a control check through the louvre and saw that the courtesy ligts were on again (sigh!). Opened the door and tested plunger switches. Seemed to work fine. I had replaced a plunger cap a while ago and extended it internally with a little bit of glue. It seemd to have worn off. Put some paper towel bits into the rubber tip to extend the switches further and that seemed to help. I guess I have to think about a new solution for the plunger switches or buy Ed Udings longer switches.
That, of course, does not explain why the frink or engine compartment light did not work, but that has to stay for another day. :dead: