Blackie and I drove our DeLoreans halfway across Australia over the past two days for tomorrow's DMC MidWest TechDay in Sydney :driving1:
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Blackie and I drove our DeLoreans halfway across Australia over the past two days for tomorrow's DMC MidWest TechDay in Sydney :driving1:
Checked the coolant level, lowered tire pressure, cleaned corosion off battery cable.
Discovered that my tire inflation attachment that came with my Craftsman air compressor is too big to be able to inflate the front tires. Drove around to all of the local gas stations to see which ones offer free air. Out of the six I visited, only one offered air for free. I think I found the station that I am now going to fill up at. Inflated front tires to 23 PSI.
Swapped interior/exterior bulbs over to LED (with the exception of the gauge cluster bulbs; I replaced all of them with new incandescents when I got the car back in November and I wasn't in the mood to pull the binnacle again right now!).
Below are a few quick random pics of the job; a pic of the pile of LEDs that went in, a shot of what went in the tail lights, and a shot of the vast difference between the old vs. new bulbs in the A/C panel (old is on the right, obviously!)
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Looks like I ordered the wrong size festoon bulbs, so the license plate and engine & luggage compartment lights will have to wait until I exchange them. Loving it so far! Everything is nice and bright, and I can now leave my door triggers connected without feeling like I'm killing the battery.
Also, since my last post in this thread (I'm a bit behind!):
New fuel pump (check valve in old pump was the cause of my hot start issue...finally solved!)
Rebuilt warm-up regulator (discovered my old one was leaking a bit; given its location this was not a good thing)
New steering rack boots
New tie rod ends
Repaired broken stay on engine cover
Replaced old and worn-out cold air intake duct (pics below)
Attachment 17611Attachment 17612
As others have recommended, I used the Spectre 3" flexible duct (P/N 8741; easily found at Advance Auto, etc.) for this. It worked really, really well. Below is a pic showing how perfect a fit it is on the airbox:
Attachment 17613
Anyway, sorry for the extensive post; just excited to share the new goodies. Have a great weekend!
After over 9 years of owning the car....
NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN NNNNNNEW headliners for the doors :D.
Pictures in the "My headliner is start to sag..." thread.
Congratulations and welcome to the joys and pitfalls of DeLorean ownership. The joys outweigh the pitfalls in the majority of cases ;)
The machinist called me today to let me know the heads were getting a final cleaning and would be ready by the end of today but I worked until 5 so I couldn't pick them up. I'll get them Monday. He said a total of 6 studs had to be drilled out between the two heads. Two I knew about and broke myself, the other 4 he broke when trying to get the frozen studs out. It was the worst case he's ever seen. I'm guessing the guy that was applying anti-seize that day in Ireland was taking a nap or something.
Replaced bad passenger door strut with very good drivers door strut. Put brand new strut on drivers door. Replaced both luggage compartment struts. Checked under headliners for cave paintings (nothing interesting but I'll put it in the cave paintings thread). Sat in the car and listened to the Back To The Future theme ;)
Noticed the headliner starting to sag in the rear. The fabric is not coming off of the board -- instead, the board itself seems to have lost a connection somewhere. Going to find the manuals and look up how it is attached. May end up doing the "roof cage fix" while I am at is, since the passenger door tends to squeak going up, and I am told that's a "classic" symptom of a de-forming roof cage.
Let us know how you make out Farrar. Mine has come loose in the same way you've described. Not cloth from board... more that the whole board isn't clipped/screwed in where it should be anymore. Right above the rear window, at that leading edge. I think part of it gets pinned in by the rear interior panels, but I'm not sure. That could be part of it for you too as I know you had your panels out to get at the speakers/seatbelts earlier.
Any chance you have a list of what LED's to buy for the taillights? I want to finally replace mine. Only issue is that my cruise control cutoff is linked to the brakelights and the first set of LED's I had didn't draw enough to trigger the system. Any idea what these ones are? I'd really love to get LED's back there again.
I have the same issue. What I found is that the bracket/clip that mounts to the roof fiberglass had fallen out due to incomplete installation of the 2 M6 RIVNUTS. It almost seems as though the holes are to big for that size Riv-nut. When pulled, the riv-nut should expand on the back side of the surface you install then into. These expanded at the flange instead. It's as though the Grip range was to short for the material thickness.
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I towed my D to DMC FL to get the clutch fixed. I hope they get it done this week so I get the car in time to go to the Celebration car show.
They had 13 Deloreans in the lot and a bunch in the showroom getting worked on. There were several Corvettes and a couple of Mercedes in the lot also.
Attachment 17656
I installed white LED strip lights under each door, as well as blue LED strip lighting under the car. It took hours, but I feel like the end result was worth the trouble! Since it is illegal in most states to drive with blue lights, I plan on only using these at car shows and cruise-ins.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...7&d=1364093671
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...8&d=1364093679
Towed it from CA to AZ. 700 miles.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...psb14a3b7f.jpg
#6679 got the privilege of a complete look over by Dave Swingle in Sydney yesterday - a few boots and bushings I need to replace but she otherwise was given Dave's blessing the work I've done is great and that he has never seen a DeLorean in such great condition before, very stoked and proud :)
Am now half-way along my return trek across Australia to Adelaide... :driving1:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...3&d=1364104446
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...4&d=1364104587
Dave and Julee do house calls?........to Australia???? talk about service!
How many Deloreans came to the DMCMW DownUnder Tour Event? I see there was a D on a Dyno. Were there other Deloreans run on it? What was the Average HP?
Guys - this is just happening because your board is warped and sagging. Probably nothing has come loose, just the carboard underneath the fabric is starting to bend under its own weight. I fixed it by removing the board and epoxying a thin piece of aluminum bar stock (available at Lowe's, etc) to the underside of it. Thin enough that I can bend it slightly to get the board to match the curve of the roof, but strong enough that it will never sag again.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...5&d=1364141335
Unless when you remove the board you find what Dennis did, that your clip isn't installed properly :)
I got everything from superbrightleds.com. Here's what I put in the taillights:
Brake - P/N 1156-R18-T - Single intensity 18 SMD LED tower - Red.
Tail - P/N 1156-R3W - Single intensity 1 x 3 watt high power LED w/reflector lens - Red.
Turn signal - P/N 1156-A3W - Single intensity 1 x 3 watt high power LED w/reflector lens - Amber.
Reverse - P/N 1156-W3W - Single intensity 1 x 3 watt high power LED w/reflector lens - White.
All of these have a very wide beam angle, so they fill the lenses quite well. They don't have the severe hotspotting that a lot of LED bulbs have. I went with the R18 bulbs for the brake lights to give them a bit more "kick" than the tail lamps alone and make it clear at night that I have hit the brakes! It's not blinding or glaring; it actually seems to have just the right level of intensity. I also changed out the flasher unit with P/N CF13GL-02 in order to keep the turn signals flashing at the normal rate. All in all, I'm very happy with how it turned out and would definitely recommend these bulbs!
Please post some day/night comparison photos. Preferably with Standard bulbs on one side and LED on the other. The LED (experimenting with various bulbs) has yielded several looks.
Jon,
You can see how my rear headliner was hanging in the photo I posted in the your thread about the SS T-toof finisher. The headliner material had become unglued on the top side, which which caused it to Pop-up thus filling the gap that would otherwise be present. Look at the photo ED posted of his Finisher installation you can see the difference.
Thanks Jon. I'm not done my speaker install work yet, so I can still take a few more things apart before everything goes back together. I'll take this headliner piece off and look for the sag as well as this clip. I'll let you know how it goes as soon as the weather warms up some more and the polar bears move out of my garage.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...6&d=1364089386
One of the cars that their in the middle of working on is mine. :wrenchin:
It's also having the clutch worked on, among other things.
I Miss it...
George
I took the car out of the garage today and tried to get it idling and running properly. I think I got it. It drives beautifully with plenty of power and runs with an even idle. I can't wait till the weather gets better so I can bring the car home, get it serviced, and start driving it regularly. Old man winter is being a real bastard this year, though.
Thank you very much for posting this. I just got done with the doors, and I'm moving to the T-piece and back piece near the rear glass next. How are these pieces held in? My understanding is there are NO fir trees holding these two in. How do you go about properly getting them down ?
How about I do you one better and send you a video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MBuS...pP1uw&index=52
The answer is in the other thread you posted in. http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?65...ll=1#post95603 Post #7
I started pulling various parts off the engine and frame to be sent to the powder coater to be zinc coated. I think I only found half of the parts I have identified on my spreadsheet.
Took the car for a run and tested out the new Rear Window/Mirror defrost circuit and also the auto-dimming rear-view mirror. You press the Defrost button once (a new momentary switch) and then the new relay starts heating for ~12 minutes. The light comes on when the heating is active, so the light also goes off automatically after ~12 minutes. You can press the defrost button again (before 12 minutes runs out) and the heating circuit will switch off. [Defrost on the stock D is on while the button is switched to On. The defrost stays on until you switch it off.]
The mirror wasn't too big a problem, although I did need to get switched (LGW) power to it. Getting it mounted was a challenge (yes, I did not use glue).
Of course, since I'm in Houston, I won't need it until around December :)