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That's how I did it both times so far - I was concerned it would spray all over the frame so taped a plastic cutting mat to deflect and funnel the oil. Worked a treat and given the oil coating all over the mat it was obvious my frame would have been a mess had I not done that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Yeah, I'll definitely try that trick next time. At last the back of my frame is well oiled ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Yeah, it's pretty black looking. Nothing too excessive, but I'm definitely glad I changed it. I'll flush the brakes in the next week as well. And the coolant system after I order the DMC house kit. Then I should be good for a bit :)
Are those vice grips I spy on your drain plug :(
Pulled out the master clutch cylinder and prepared for pulling the slave. I've practiced with the pry bar on the slave a few times and I think I can get it far enough out. Another attempt tomorrow morning with my son helping! Next up is servicing the cylinders - DIY style :)
Technically, no. They're clamped onto what used to be a center punch. The center punch previously had a square end on it, approximately 8mm. God only knows why they didn't make it a 3/8" square hole so that anyone with a ratchet could get it off. I guess it's just one of those things that makes the car special ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangermouse
My guess is that JZD was trying to move ahead of everyone else by moving as much as possible to the metric system. The Metric Conversion Act was signed in '75 so the timing is about right.
Yeah, I picked up one of those flexible plastic oil drain director things last time I was at O'Reilly for just this reason. The frame gets coated if you aren't careful and it's a real mess.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
And yeah I thought the same thing about that oil - it looks like crude! Wonder when the last change was. Did it smell weird? Like gas or sweet?
I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary about it. Just glad I changed it :)Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Oil gets black in as little as 500 miles FYI, so there's likely nothing wrong with it.
Good call. Best thing to do is know what you have going forward. Change fluids and see if anything in them is out of the ordinary. You can't go back and change what some PO did in the past... no matter what kind of car you have ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by LordFly
That's good. I thought you had a replacement drain plug that you were destroying with a set of vice grips.Quote:
Originally Posted by LordFly
And it's metric because the engine is French. And they have been metric for decades.
I use the same tool I kept from when I have a Renault 5/LeCar way back when. It's 8mm on one end and 12 on the other.
I learned this too the hard way a couple of weekends ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Cheers
Steven
To this day I can't hear or think of a Le Car without thinking of Le George :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangermouse
Pulled the Binnacle to check out Temp Gauge issue and confirmed it is DEAD.
Well, dug a little deeper ( removed gauge from cluster) Now it WORKS. Go Figure. Unfortunately I broke the Trip Rest arm during the reassembly process. I also had a few indicator bulbs that did not want to work. Fortunately, it was just tarnished socket contacts causing the problem. All the bulbs got a good cleaning. and Ohms checked 0.008-0.006 (problem Fixed).Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Added these seatbelt covers;
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e6...ps1432d821.jpg
inspired by the Dodge Conquest TSi :)
Whoa nice! Where did those come from?! Did you have them made?Quote:
Originally Posted by Starglider
Thanks, I had them made by Redline Accessories.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicholas R
Started painting my underbody/suspension with ZeroRust.
I LOVE this product. It is a preventative rust paint, and it is well worth its price of $25 a quart.
Attachment 17879
Passenger side. Zerorust is the light grey paint.
Attachment 17880
Sway bar
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Driver's side
Installed one of the sun visor brackets that was never installed correctly since I purchased my car in 2003. Fixed now (:
Attachment 17887
Attachment 17888
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Finally, finally, finally!!! got the @#$%^ clutch slave cylinder out of the car. I wasn't able to budge the hardline connection to the slave, so I had to undo the other end of the hardline. The two bolts holding on the slave were straightforward once I had the right socket size (11mm). I got the slave moving but the coolant pipes just above the slave wanted it to stay in place. I got the clutch fork held back and stable with a 24in prybar and a large cable tie.
Not really looking forward to putting the refurbished slave back in.
??? Has anyone refurbished their slave and master cylinders themselves? documentation? I got the kits from JHarvey and thought it would be worth a try. Worse case I fail and get to practice doing this again.
Took a short drive, first in over a week. I never usually go that long but weather and other responsibilities conspired against me.
On the plus side I filled up on the way home and recorded my best D mileage yet at 26mpg. Most of the current tank was burned on the highway as opposed to my usual surface street and back road jaunts though.
Replaced the front driver's side marker light socket, as the old bulb rusted itself to the original socket. Now all of the lights, save for the headlights and a few internal bulbs, are LED.
Replaced/cleaned all the fuses in the fuse box.
It is no effort to do the slave but there were a few different types so you may not have the correct parts on hand. John has the parts for each type slave.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrJeff
I took my snow shovel out for a nice Spring push around the driveway. Beautiful winter we are having this Spring, eh?
Sheesh, Dunlop NCTs? Cooper Cobra sets of four? Nah... do they make snow tires for this thing???
I am overhauling the entire Cooling system. New Radiator/fans, waterpump(from DPI) and hoses(blue silicon. Also new Vacuum hoses(red silicone), Distributor cap and rotor, Oil temp sensor and wire, coolant tank, etc as the issues pop up. Started a few days ago and still waiting on parts. Learned alot about 'who' to order parts from:)
Took Vin#15768 on it's first drive after it's 14 year hibernation:rock_on: 15 miles and only ground to a halt once! soon fixed with a tap to the fuel pump.
Chris
Looks like I will need to get a new battery. My yellow top has not been holding a charge for much more than a few weeks. I don't plan on another Optima because of cost but it has lasted 6 or 7 years.
I recommend a set of Uniroyal Tiger Paw Ice & Snow II ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Attachment 17921
I aligned the buttons on the center console. I had to use a drill and grinder to countersink the holes a bit. As stated before, the LED window stitches are a tad taller.
I shimmed the center console up with wood so it does not have the classic sag anymore too.
Installed Bitsync's solid state RPM relay. Great piece of mind for under $100.
Beauty job on the alignment, Jeff. That's far better lined up than pretty much any other DeLorean I have seen.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff K
Today I finally collected my car from ChrisN and drove it home since it's all UK Legal now! And in true DeLorean fashion, my Radio antenna snapped off whilst on the freeway and then I had hot-start issues with a crowd watching me.
Oh well, I suppose this is where the fun begins? :drunk:
Congratulation, any pictures of your adventure?
Replaced My broken Trip Reset shaft. That's a tedious little job not for the faint of heart. (things can and will break if extreme caution is not taken and your unfamiliar with the disassembly process) This is a job that should be left to the pro's if your not mechanically inclined. While I was at it I cleaned all the copper on the Flexible Circuit board with tarn-x.
Thanks Jonathan! It always bugged me how bad my switches looked. After countersinking under the switches, I think shimming the center console up with wood (From DMCDave If I remember correct) , make the angle look right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Cleaned the windows and the wheels. Re-aimed the headlights (which were low because of the lowered front suspension). Put on 90 miles just messing around, and attracted lots of attention.
Replaced the wear & tear components (rubber) on the master and slave clutch cylinders. Re-installed both in the car and bleed. Some dripping straight afterwards is hopefully coming from the DOT4 spilled when my bleeder pipe came off the nipple. We'll see in the morning if she's still dripping after a few pumps of the clutch.
Picked up and installed my freshly repaired and painted louvre! Big thanks to Justin on that one :)
Attachment 17960