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I put assembly paste, break in lube on the cam lobes and valve tappets. I had this stuff in stock because I use it on rebuilding vintage BMW motorcycle engines.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...23136a89ee.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...decec2976c.jpg
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82DMC12 (Andy) wanted to see pictures of the index in the crank so I took pics and measured it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7d66a503ab.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d2e725c12b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3b9f74fda2.jpg
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We oiled the crank bearings and put everything in place. We had one snafu. Bearing block #1 didn't seem to fully seat in place correctly and made the crank jam up.
I installed it, removed it, and installed it several times. After a half hour of us sifting through old pics we found out that the bearing block needed to be flipped 180 degrees. Once we did that it went right into place and the crank spun freely.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b3cc58a001.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0550b9b9bc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...aebe93f89c.jpg
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We had a decision to make now. Follow the order of assembly of the manual and of the advice the owner of a reputable Delorean repair shop or stop working on the engine until the Hylomar I ordered showed up.
Basically there are two ways to proceed with assembling the engine from here out.
A. Install spacers on crankshaft bearing blocks, tighten down the nuts, flip motor over, install cylendar sleeves with shims (with Hylomar on them), install temporary sleeve retainers, install pistons, torque connecting rod bearing half nuts, flip motor over, remove crank bearing nuts and spacers, install bottom section of the engine, reinstall crank bearing nuts, torque nuts, install oil pan plate.
B. Install bottom section of engine, install crank bearing block nuts and torque (actual degrees but same idea), mount engine to engine stand, install cylendar sleeves with shims, install cylendar retainers, install pistons, flip engine back and forth as installing pistons, torque conn rods nuts, install oil pan plate.
We decided to do option B. To me it makes more sense because I can get the block bolted to the engine stand sooner. Hopefully we won't regret it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...18738b3db5.jpg
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It doesn't show putting sealant here but I was worried about oil leaking through the bolt holes so I added some sealant as cheap insurance. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...531fe70281.jpg
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I had purchased a degree gauge on Amazon. I assumed it work work as designed to but unfortunately right when the pressure was on we found out that it didn't work right. The dial wouldn't move like it was supposed to. Super annoying! We had to keep loosening the nut back up, torqueing to 20 ft-lbs, then trying the 75 degree tighten again. We ending having to have one of us hold the dial fixed by hand while the other person held the engine block with one hand and tightened with the other. Royal pain on the butt and we had a lot of anxiety about the whole thing. I really wish they just had final torque specs rather than the stupid angle tighten technique.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...05da53660d.jpg
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We installed and tightened the oil baffle plate to squat the sealant down to where it is going to be when the oil plate is installed later. This is one extra wasted step that I hadn't thought of before that is required for option B.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2575adda8f.jpg
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I showed my wife how to install a Helicoil to repair stripped out threads. She was having a hard time getting the tap going in straight. I tried to show her how it is done and didn't have much better luck, but we finally go it done. This should be the last two threaded hole repairs on the car. [emoji1696] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...dcbd1bfd8b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3532bdf6ec.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...25f3f2224e.jpg
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One VERY IMPORTANT thing I forgot to mention. YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THE BOTTOM ENGINE SECTION IS FLUSH WITH THE ENGINE BLOCK BEFORE FULLY TIGHTENING BOLTS!
In this picture I am checking the transmission mounting surfaces but I actually used the pulley side to make sure the bottom engine section was even with the block. It is easier to see on that side and if the pulley side is lined up then so isn't the transmission side.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c83066fa55.jpg
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I posted my progress on a Facebrag page. I got some criticisms for having my heads sitting on a metal work bench and for putting sealer on those two bearing cap studs. I admit it is not a good practice to set aluminum heads on a metal surface. Frankly I don't even remember ever not having the heads on cardboard, a towel, or my wooden bench. I must have though because I have the pictures.
I defended my decision to put sealant on the two studs and one person that originally said I shouldn't have done it later private messaged me saying he got what I was saying and it probably was a good idea to put sealant on there.
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