Louvre looks amazing that way :thumbup2:
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Louvre looks amazing that way :thumbup2:
You're welcome Devon!:thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by LordFly
I finally got around to fixing the damage I caused during the paint stripping. I was carrying too much and dropped this signal marker into some discarded paint stripper.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delo...ects/ext01.jpg
I figured I couldn't hurt it any more than it already was so I decided to try to fix it before purchasing a new one. I started with 180 and moved through grits to 1500. I finally followed it up with some Plastx from Meguiar's. Other than the pitting I can't get out it didn't turn out half bad. I think I'll save the 25 bucks it costs to replace that for now. Down the road I'll probably get a new one.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delo...ects/ext02.jpg
I got a lot goin on .. Just got my heads bck from getting reconditioned along with my flywheel. Pulled all the pistons with the sleeves and cleaned the block and sleeves like there is no tomorrow. I managed to replace all the liner seals and install the new heads. Little bits and pieces to put on then goning to time the engine. Getting there.. Could not be done with out the help of Josh at DPI, Mike and Dave DMCMW and Toby and Misty and DPNW and all you guys in this fourm. Thank god for DmcTalk.. :thumbup2: Attachment 17978Attachment 17979Attachment 17980Attachment 17981Attachment 17982Attachment 17983Attachment 17984Attachment 17985Attachment 17986
Those four red/orange wires on the Binnacle dimmer had one about to break off. It's just a common point to join headlight switch lamp, hazard switch lamp, clock and the lamp power source. So I cut them short, butt connected the four wire and used one original wire to tie to the dimmer. Less wires to pass to the dimmer now.
Replaced Passenger side Trailing arm pivot bushing. ALL Bolts came out easily. Cleaned the Ground cable connection. It was in pretty good shape considering I've never messed with it in 19 years. I had previously installed Toby TAB's about 10 years ago. The bolt was in perfect condition. While I was under there I replaced the L & R Transmission Mounting Brackets with SS replacements from DPI. It was one of those to do Items I had sitting on the shelf for the past year. (driver side bracket was cracked in one spot).
Next up is to finish the Driver side TA pivot bushing and adjust my Gear shifter Position to line up with my Aussie SS Gear shift plate.
Update: Found some drips under the car in the morning. Used my endoscope to watch the slave clutch (bleeder, hard-line, fork & pin) as it was being pumped and no leaks! It looks like my drips are coming from the hot water valve that sits right above the slave. Looks like I got a bit too enthusiastic getting the slave into place and bumped/stressed the hot water valve.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrJeff
Of course replacing the hot water valve means... go ahead and replace the radiator (I still have the stock one with plastic baffles), replace the fans, install the self bleeder, replace water hoses...)
Topping off battery charge...
Preparing for extraction...
Bought 11408! Sent the payment off this morning just dealing with shipping it from TN to Canada. Very Excited!
Oh sh!t.Quote:
Originally Posted by jschatte
Congratulations! Where in Canada?Quote:
Originally Posted by jschatte
Regina, Sask. The delorean scene isn't too big here... haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by pezzonovante88
No I guess not. Are you the only owner there?Quote:
Originally Posted by jschatte
I would guess I will be the only owner in SK, but there has to be a car lurking around somewhere. I would love to be proven wrong!
Hrmph. Perhaps not yet...Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
Quote:
...WINTER STORM WARNING IN EFFECT FROM 7 PM THIS EVENING TO 1 PM CDT THURSDAY...
THE NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE IN TWIN CITIES/CHANHASSEN HAS ISSUED A WINTER STORM WARNING FOR A MIX SLEET...FREEZING RAIN...AND HEAVY SNOW...WHICH IS IN EFFECT FROM 7 PM THIS EVENING TO 1 PM CDT THURSDAY. THE WINTER STORM WATCH IS NO LONGER IN EFFECT.
* TIMING: RAIN WILL TRANSITION TO A WINTRY MIX OF PRECIPITATION THIS EVENING AND CHANGE OVER TO SNOW LATE WEDNESDAY. SNOW WILL SLOWLY TAPER OFF THURSDAY MORNING.
* MAIN IMPACT: SNOW ACCUMULATIONS OF 6 INCHES OR GREATER... MAINLY BETWEEN WEDNESDAY EVENING AND MID DAY THURSDAY.
* OTHER IMPACTS: ICE ACCUMULATIONS UP TO A TENTH OF AN INCH DUE TO SLEET AND LIGHT FREEZING RAIN TONIGHT INTO WEDNESDAY.
PRECAUTIONARY/PREPAREDNESS ACTIONS...
A WINTER STORM WARNING MEANS SIGNIFICANT AMOUNTS OF SNOW...SLEET...AND ICE ARE EXPECTED OR OCCURRING. STRONG WINDS ARE ALSO POSSIBLE. THIS WILL MAKE TRAVEL VERY HAZARDOUS OR IMPOSSIBLE.
Replaced tail light and brake light bulbs with LEDs courtesy of Welmoed, looks great. Removed some scotch locks behind the tail lights and soldered the wires properly. Also put the LEDs in the AC panel.
Tomorrow I'll paint the edges of the AC panel (the clear plastic moulded part) as there's some light bleed, then put on a new decal. Will replace the binnacle bulbs as well if I get a chance.
http://i.imgur.com/senMAgF.jpg
Wow, those are huge. Your board is in about 1000 times better condition than mine. Mine was all corroded, I had to clean it up with scotch bright pads and solder half the sockets to the board just to get them make contact.Quote:
Originally Posted by MML
Quote:
Originally Posted by LordFly
Yeah, I was surprised how good they were first time I saw them! I was lucky in a number of ways with this car, in terms of the condition everything was in.
Fixed this part of my roof box on the driver's side.
Yesterday morning, it looked like this:
Attachment 18046
With fiberglass repair (very rough right now, this is NOT the final look), it now looks like this:
Attachment 18045
Anyone who says "oh, the fiberglass underbody and the roof box separating is no big deal...", you can re-direct them to these pictures from now on (:
Fixed my fuel leak and thusly resolved the hot-start issues I noticed before the strong smell of gasoline hit me. Celebrated my very first DeLorean repair by taking her out for a spin and it was goooood.
Attachment 18052
Drained the tank in prep for cleaning. Hoping by tomorrow evening its completely dry and I can just vacuum all the crap out of it :)
So continues the work to put the new headliners back in place. Today, silicone sealing the fiberglass roof to the roofbox:
Attachment 18096
So here we are with the roof box and the fiberglass roof thoroughly cleaned, sanded, prepped, and ready to go. A black silicone will go between the two and make a watertight seal, keeping my new headliners safe. In one hand, I will have a caulk gun with black silicone, in the other will be a screwdriver to pry between the roofbox and the fiberglass roof. The trick is to lay a continuous and steady bead of silicone. We'll see how it goes....
Attachment 18097
Here is the final product. I placed multiple beads of silicone between the roofbox and the fiberglass roof. After that, I took a paper towel and wiped off the excess silicone. Then I took my fingers and rubbed the silicone from left to right in one swoop. This was to flatten the silicone on the edge of the fiberglass roof and the roofbox and to do also make a good uniform appearance while making sure the seal was solid.
The four spring clamps are holding the two in place without squeezing the silicone out from between the two bodies. This needs to sit for 3 hours with the garage at about 68-72 degrees. Once this is done, I will sand and vacuum the rest of the door sill area. Then I will lay down a gray epoxy primer in prep for the paint. Finally, I will spray an acrylic based automotive Rustoleum paint in flat black. Once that is done, I can finally get the headliners ready to put back into the roof, replace the outer door seal, secure the headliners, and glue the fabric of the headliners back into place with the seals covering the edges.
Just to think, I thought the roof headliners would be a 2 day job tops. It's been 9 days now :P. These kind of "unexpected jobs" are fun to me. They can be a bit of a drag, but I try to see them as opportunities to succeed rather than "RAWR RAWR RAWR...." moments (: !
Removed rear fascia assembly and bumper for engine access.
Installed rivet-nuts into fiberglass body for easier removal of the fascia in the future.
Replaced AC compressor clutch bearing as well as the AC belt tensioner.
Also re-epoxying several tail light nuts in the fascia. (I always have so much trouble with these)
Installed a new battery. Boy has the price of batteries gone up. Cheapest I could find was $79 at Kmart. And that is the cheapest battery (they also have Die Hard). I'm keeping my old battery because it seemed like it did not take much to charge it and it still started the car one week later. Maybe there is another problem that will show up. "Core" charge is only $9 anyway.
More repair of holes with fiberglass. This time, I followed the instruction of HillBillyDMC on here, and the results I am pleased with.
One of the holes I plugged:
Attachment 18138
Here we have a tiny black rust hole in the middle of the photograph. Time to practice more fiberglass work. This area has been cleaned and sanded - ready for fiberglass application!
Attachment 18139
Here, a layer of fiberglass with resin has been applied.
Attachment 18140
And here a second layer of fiberglass has been applied over the first one. Let thit dry for 90 mins, and no water will be getting back into that hole (: ...
Spent this week rebuilding the front callipers and installing stainless braided brake lines. Have just had the new bearings (well NOS, and it's obvious unfortunately so will need to look into something better later) pressed into the hubs so have now fitted new rotors and reinstalled.
Just got to fit the new pads, bleed, tighten everything up, and take her out for a shakedown - hopefully no issues so I can take her for a trip tomorrow, first time she'll be on the road since trip to Sydney last month.
Reinstalled the fuel pump tonight after cleaning the tank REALLY well yesterday. She's good to go for a while :)
Removed my Craig Radio, un-jammed the tape and managed to put the deck back together again. Too afraid to stick in another tape to see if it all works, but at least I have the radio back again! With the center console out I also took apart the wiring for the after-market CD-changer and re-routed it so I can remove it all later in the summer (once I've decided whether to AUX-in the Craig, use a wired FM modulator or replace head-unit with a Retrosound Model One).
Finally got to drive the car with some music though!
Will be putting the center console back together next and then moving on to why the wings-a-loft has stopped working for the drivers side door...
All done and shakedown went fantastically - no noise from the bearings and brakes insanely better than he ever has! Off for a good trip tomorrow :)
Installed Club UK lower ball joints and replaced my ignition module, which was intermittently flaky.
Duplicolor Self-Etching Primer and finally the Rustoleum Acrylic Automobile Flat Black paint laid today.
Attachment 18178
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Tightened up both of the 10mm nuts that somehow worked slightly loose on one of the engine cover hinge studs inside the passenger compartment behind the rear bulkhead panel, causing an infrequent rattling noise over certain roads. Rattle eliminated.
Drove the car home today. Ran great. Hopefully the weather is okay next Sunday for the British car flea market.
After fixing the clutch slave and managing to get DOT4 over everything, I flushed out the engine bay - including the VOD - with a water hose. I then used a leaf blower to dry the engine off. To get the air into the VOD I used a 1/2in ID hose hooked up to the leaf blower. I then used my endoscope (aka "home DIY colonoscopy kit") to check out the VOD. It was mostly dried out and looking a lot better than before. Behind the water pump was missed so a second go with the hose and the leaf blower took care of it. This will have to do until I pull the intake off properly in a few weeks.
Wondered what goodies I will buy the car with my 44-cent federal income tax refund.
Looked at it longingly.
Jacked up the front to investigate a couple drops of coolant on the floor. It's either a short hose on the passenger side of the radiator, or the radiator side tank is starting to leak. Hard to tell, so I just cleaned up the mess, tightened the clamp and will check back. It is not an original radiator (metal tanks) so I was hoping this wouldn't come up... at least not right now!
Ripped out 2 rivnuts while removing the radiator duct to investigate. Somehow managed to drive to the store and purchase ONE replacement and not realize my mistake until I tried to install the second one that wasn't there. Sigh.
Tried to fix my oil pressure light switch. New thread on that coming up....
Ah.... at least you GOT a refund... I had to pay... and pay... and pay...Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
You could put a deposit down on a first class stamp Farrar. I'd suggest a Forever stamp as it'll give you the best return. Having said that my return will be pretty nice considering my status last year. Once things stabilize in my world I'm going to play with my deductions so that I owe every year. Better than to get a loan for Uncle Sam with no interest than to give one with no interest!
To stay on topic I picked up an Engine hoist yesterday and assembled it today. The sun has set, but I'm hoping to still pull a motor/trans tonight.
Replaced the extremely aging (yet surprisingly still functional) 3.5" front speakers with some Kickers. Rears to follow when I find some 4x10's. Then maybe a small sub or 2 built for the back shelf.
Attachment 18218
Replaced Front both front (crusty/rusty) marker light sockets. The bulb was frozen in the Right hand socket also
the Replacement socket is about 1/4 in longer the original. It does just fit with careful manipulation of the ground wire terminal attached to the socket.
Attachment 18263
Left Front marker Socket
Attachment 18265
Right Front Marker Socket
Attachment 18264