I think it depends on which factory in China made it. Some of them are nearly indistinguishable from the genuine Momos. Somewhere around here there is a post comparing the two side-by-side (a knockoff vs. genuine Momo) and they are nearly exact.
Printable View
Attachment 39692
That is an interesting lower door strut connection.
That's the henninger and associates strut mount.
Dennis
Here are some pics if anyone's interested...
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/o...psdmx0wuai.jpg
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/o...psy3zc9snr.jpg
I finished cleaning all my latches, and reinstalling them. I also eliminated the front lock rods, so the latches only lock at the rear of the doors, and the lock rods don't have to be kept in sync. The danger is you could drive over a bump or do something that would engage a front lock. I made a small modification so the latch never locks:
Attachment 39704
Simply wrap some wire around the arm so it is kept in the unlock position:
Attachment 39705
After using the door latch and lock adjustment procedure, and testing everything, it appears to be a success.
More details in my blog post: http://www.16908.info/?p=2843
So I stand corrected and vaguely remember seeing that a while back.
Your 4 bolt method is similar to the henninger bracket with exception of ball stud mounting. So don't be offended if I made a mistake identifying it from the sliver of a view that was being pointed at in the photo.
Dennis
Hello All. Have been out of touch due to some family related events in the past few months. Things have settled to a new norm now, enough that I can focus a bit more on my car hobbies and topics. So with that, this weekend:
a) Finished driver side felt removal, replaced with a "window sweep".
The idea came from this site (search: felt removal), works great, cost as of this writing was $25 for both doors, but cheapest shipping was $14. The vendor is in Florida so mine were actually delivered the next day(!).
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...8&d=1455493316
b) Resolved a cold start issue. The last time I turned the ignition off after a drive, instead of the engine dying it sort of accelerated a tad, maybe a half second on its own - so on a follow up start up it would just crank and not turn. I swapped the CSV and WUR, and it started right up. After that swap, with connectors back on the proper configuration, it all started fine again. So either a loose or dirty connection somewhere or a TTS that may be going. (Thanks Dave/Bitsyncmaster for diagnostic tips)
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...7&d=1455493315
Hmm, not really visible here, but that engine bay and the panels need some detailing work - probably get to that in the coming weeks.
c) Topped off air on tires and ...went for the first drive of the year.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...9&d=1455493316
Felt great to be in the D again (..got a thumbs up even before I left the neighborhood!)