What have you done to your DeLorean today?

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Originally Posted by Alan

Today, I was beaten by mine.

I am trying to do part of an LED conversion. I'm working on the AC Panel lights. I have the panel lights and the 3 indicator lights (fan fail, defrost, and door lock) done. They work and look great.

I was trying to replace my headlight and hazard light bulbs with these (one cool white and one red, though I wouldn't think color would matter). I keep blowing out fuse 8. I understand why it's fuse 8 that's blowing. I don't understand why I'm blowing a fuse at all. If I have one of the LEDs in either switch, in either orientation, I blow the fuse. If the LED polarity were backwards, I thought they'd just not work, not blow fuses... and having tried them both ways, I don't think that's it.

Are these LEDs not appropriate for this use?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Alan

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...and with Dave's, Bitsyncmaster's, help, I ultimately came out on top.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...4814fa612b.jpg

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Originally Posted by Patrick C

I can't say I agree with all of Bill's modifications, but I do like the idea of the LONG coolant hose and eliminating all of the pipe and hose clamp connections!

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That hose only goes as far as the pipe under the gas tank. It replaces the useless factory radiator bleeder pipe. Radiator now bleeds *UPHILL* to a tee in the heater core return pipe:

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...92&oe=578CC616

Guaranteed not to trap air in the radiator, even from an empty system fill (automatically self bleeds the radiator).

Bill Robertson
#5939

I also threw away pipes from the engine compartment to under the car:

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...8f&oe=575088CD

And the short radiator pipe on the driver's side. Altogether I have 6 pipe sections:
- 2 in engine compartment (need those for the coolant expansion tank and otterstat)
- 4 under the car

Bill Robertson
#5939

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Originally Posted by content22207_2

That hose only goes as far as the pipe under the gas tank. It replaces the useless factory radiator bleeder pipe. Radiator now bleeds *UPHILL* to a tee in the heater core return pipe:

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I'm talking about the big coolant hose that eliminated all of the aluminum piping.

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Originally Posted by Patrick C

I'm talking about the big coolant hose that eliminated all of the aluminum piping.

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Not all the aluminum piping is gone -- I still need engine compartment pipes for the coolant expansion tank and otterstat, and there's no need to jetison piping under the car. Everything else has been replaced with hose.

Look closely and you'll see the hose clamp where under car piping begins (radiator bleeder looks downhill because the front of the car is jacked up):

Attachment 40828

Bill Robertson
#5939

Torsion bar adjustment. Went really well!
Attachment 40841

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Originally Posted by ryan king

torsion bar adjustment. Went really well!
Attachment 40841

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lol nice!

I'm digging the Ash Ketchum hat. :)

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Originally Posted by Ryan King

Torsion bar adjustment. Went really well!

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Here's how it really happened.......

Attachment 40842

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Originally Posted by content22207_2

Or put C channels on the side of the crumple extension.
Owners who test drive my car and extol its smooth handling are quite surprised when I show them the Grand Canyon, but think about it: my C channels are *STRONGER* in the vertical plane than the original crumple extension. Not only is the aluminum 1/8" thick, but it extends the entire length of the crumple extension (OEM 16 gauge panels are only a couple of inches long). Yellow paint and bent aluminum at the front is from beaching the car on a concrete island (there's a story behind that), during which time the entire front end was supported by the C channels -- prima facie evidence of their strength.

Note that the rest of the frame is solid -- failed weld repair is my only compromise. If you have rust damage elsewhere a frame off may be necessary.

Bill Robertson
#5939

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The cracked extension is just the most critical of the rust problems- there's a lot of other rust issues on the frame both in the front end (that large panel behind the extension on the bottom? rusted through with a large hole in the middle of it) and on the rear (bottom of the engine cradle) that I can see easily, and probably more spots. The rust issues have been there since I got the car, I've just been keeping an eye on them and hoping they'd behave until I had my other projects done such that I could devote the time to fixing them. It *might* be possible to fix everything without pulling the body, but there are enough things that I both need and want to do that it just makes sense to not go half-assed and just patch the car enough to get it (safely) drivable again but to take the time to fix everything and hopefully not have to deal with major rust issues for another 30 years.