Printable View
Just fixed my speedo issue yesterday. It took a new angle drive, dust cap and lower speedo cable for good measure. Took it for a drive and it worked great!!
Problem- was so happy that it was fixed, went to go take her for a drive today and the drivers door handle broke while trying to open the door. :swear1: sometimes I think this car hates me....
Does anyone know if the metal door handles are in stock at DMC?
Replaced the plastic clutch line with 3/16 brake tubing, mated to the original fittings at the master & slave---$25 bucks only in material---
Leroy 2126
I hooked up Toby's Wings-A-Loft Remote Trunk Release System. I got it with a "lift assist." I don't recall what Toby calls that. Now, when I pop my luggage compartment lid (either manually or with my keyless), it lifts out of the latch. That, coupled with the remote release system, makes getting into the trunk a one handed operation. Big fan.
I also washed and polished 1121.
I ordered more LEDs. Soon I'll be done with everything but the binnacle lights. I like the dimmer.
Anyone have an easy solution (read nearly plug and play) for converting the dimmer for LEDs?
Bought a new battery and switched them. Finally got a good look how the kill switch installed by DMCMW before I bought it looks like. Placed it in a slightly more convenient angle.
This marks the most mechanical repair I've ever done. The previous record holder was improperly installing wipers on a my Daily Driver and paying for an oil change.
Thoroughly degreased, wire-brushed, and painted my front brake calipers with caliper paint. Will rebuild with new seals and pistons next.
I didnt drive it and went with my daily driver. The fuel pump went out while trying to leave work. My 2000 honda accord is now less reliable than my 1982 delorean.
Started tackling the replacement of the original fuel lines with the SS sleeved kit from DPI. Everything was going great until one of the hollow bolts sheared when installing one of the new lines. I must have been trying to tighten it too much. These things supposed to be torqued or am I supposed to wing it? Here's what's left of the sheered hollow bolt:
Attachment 41833
How about the hollow bolts? Are they available at local auto parts stores or is it a DeLorean-vendor-only part? Not in a rush to get this put back together.
This is as far as I made it before the bolt gave way:
Attachment 41834
The new lines didn't come with any instructions and I just removed one line and replaced it before moving on to the next, using the one closest in length to the original line. I figured that was the best way to proceed. Those new small copper washers can be a beast not to lose on some of these lines, by the way. Any help or tips on the remaining lines would be great. These are what I will have left to do:
Attachment 41835
Hi Jared,Quote:
Originally Posted by Stainless
Yeah, those hollow bolts are delicate. Per the workshop manual, the 8 mm torque value is 7 ft/lbs, the 10 mm is 9 ft/lbs, and the 12 mm is 17ft/lbs.
I don't know where else you can get the bolts, perhaps someone else can comment on that.
I checked at all the local auto parts stores and a few places like grainger/fastenal wasn't able to source any of the hollow bolts locally when I checked a few years ago. NAPA thought they could order some but they were more expensive than the vendors and in the end they were on back order. The quickest and easiest solution for this kind of stuff is usually a call to DMCMW.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC-81
You've got the right idea replacing them one at a time so you can match up the length of the existing hoses. One thing that may be helpful is to wait to tighten anything down until you've got them all installed. That way if you decide you want to change the angle of the hose on the fuel distributor or adjust how one hose overlaps over the other you can do it more easily. Then do a final torque on everything at the very end.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stainless
If you do end up removing a hose and having to re-tighten down the hollow bolts you should replace the copper washers. They're really only good for one use since they deform slightly when they're tightened down. Copper strain hardens when worked cold so repeated re-torquing may not always give you a reliable seal. In reality you can probably get away with reusing them once or twice without leaks but if it were me it wouldn't be worth the risk of causing a fuel leak or a fire. If you're ordering some new hollow bolts pick up some extra copper washers in a few different sizes so you have a few spares on hand.
Once you get everything reconnected and you go to start the engine for the first time be on the lookout for any leaks and be ready to shut down the engine quickly if you have to. Having a fire extinguisher on hand just in case wouldn't be a bad idea either. When it comes to high pressure fuel you can't be too careful.