Wait, there was an actual "DeLorean" class ?Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
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Wait, there was an actual "DeLorean" class ?Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Sure was!! 4 of us today, 3 from the forum.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangermouse
Attachment 19155
Congratulations! I assume Stephen won first?Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Edit: Should have gone back a page to see you already said this.
That's a good looking plaque! I have received first place plaques that don't look as nice as that. So if that's second place what did the first place trophy look like?Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Ohhh and I have to do this::hihi2:
http://www.adster.ca/img/Image/Blog%...irstorLast.jpg
Haha, nice. The first place plaque was the same with a blue background rather than red. And third was silver. This is a classy show through and through, well organized and with an incredible selection of cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael
The big plus of having our own class this year is that Stephen will be eligible to join the Winner's Circle at next year's show. So we will have some representation up there with all the other pristine show cars and a chance for a D to take Best in Show!
- used pieces of aluminum sheet and RTV to (I hope) seal the two body holes behind the rear speakers.
- confirmed radiator fan function.
- replaced bad connector at blower motor (ground), restored blower motor function on all four speeds.
- noticed blower motor functions without the rest of the connectors plugged in - just the big one and ground. Kinda strange...
I've made quite a bit of progress on reassembling my car. It seems to go back together way easier than it comes apart :) The stereo is in and after yesterday, most of the carpet, console, HVAC vents (man, those silly little rubber sleeves are a PITA to get connected!! lol) are back in too. I was ear to ear grin when I got it back together enough to test things out and put the battery back in. Partly to hear the songs and know it all seemed to have worked... and partly happy that nothing started melting/burning :) Need to get a couple replacement fittings before the seatbelts go back in, so on hold until I put an order in for some more goodies.
https://vimeo.com/66446721
Interesting to learn how the rheostat connections have an impact on whether your directionals work or not. At least I think this is what was going on. When I got the stereo going but hadn't yet put the console back in, nor the shifter plate with rheotstat, or window switches, etc. I realized my headlights worked, horn was okay, interior lights, etc., but not cluster lights and no turn signals. The directional lights came on when I turned the headlights on, but they wouldn't flash when moving the signal stalk up or down. Yesterday after getting most everything back connected, they work again. Something to know I guess for anyone troubleshooting in the future. If you don't have the rheostat plugged in at all, turn signals don't work. Fancy that.
Finished to replace the fuel accumulator.
Break my neck and arms to complete this things :eek7:
I had to remove the center console to access to the fuel lines.
Fortunately, everything is working fine now :)
Was it easier with the center console removed?Quote:
Originally Posted by Domi
Yes much more easier if you intend to change the lines too.
Sorry, the pictures is mssing
Pictures of the patched holes:
Attachment 19165Attachment 19166
For installation, I put a thick bead of silicone around the edge of each hole, and another thick bead of silicone on the aluminum pieces I had cut. I followed the instructions on the tube and allowed 15 minutes for the RTV to become tacky, then put them in the car.
I had tried to bend the aluminum appropriately to match the curve of the body in those areas, but upon installation I could see that each was less than flush. I had plenty of RTV left in the tube, so I applied a bead of silicone around the edge of each piece of aluminum. It was difficult to see, but I am pretty sure I filled all the gaps. The silicone takes 24 hours to cure, so I can test the seal later this week.
Found some of my new coolant hoses didn't have clamps on them:swear1:. So I put her up on ramps, crawled underneath and replaced 'em. I also started removing the old crappy epoxy from the fuel tank closing plate to refinish with POR-15. I scraped a lot off, but there is still a lot on there and it's very stubborn. Any tips for removing stuck-on epoxy?
Drove it to Discount Tire where im currently waiting for the new tires to be mounted.
What brand/size did you go with? Are you getting new tires all the way around?Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
I refinished my fuel tank plate by removing it, grinding off the old epoxy with a wire wheel and grinder wheel. I also used POR-15 for the finishing touch. For pictures and a in-depth look at it, go here: http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/201...ir-begins.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by pezzonovante88
Falken ZIEX ZE-912's. 195 and 225 widths. They are the newer higher rated Falkens.Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
Glory shot....
Attachment 19174
Thanks! I'll probably have to go the grinder route, as well. I'll try to get it done tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stainless
Began the journey that is the clutch slave cylinder today. Well, technically that journey began a week or so ago. My master started to leak, and based on the consensus that I have found among everyone here I decided to do the slave at the same time. Got the master in a few days ago without a hitch (so far anyway; haven't tested it yet!). With all the threads here that discuss doing the slave cylinder, there are quite a few good tips among the different ways that people have attacked it. I had some other jobs that I had been waiting to do that required draining the coolant (new thermotime switch, replace the clamp on the LH water pump hose), so I figured I'd take advantage of that and remove the hot water valve and piping to give myself a bit of extra wiggle room. Quite frankly, I have NO idea how people get this thing out without doing that. Plus, my hot water valve is looking quite suspect (extremely rusty on one side; looks like it could let go any day), so it seemed like a no-brainer to go in this way and just replace the valve and hoses while I'm in there.
Now, I said I drained the coolant, which is to say I drained it from the radiator. I expected that there would be a fair amount of coolant still in the block/head, so I fitted a small syringe to the bleed hose that tees off from the hot water valve piping and sucked out coolant until I started getting very little out. Sounded like a good idea in my head. Well, those that have been down this road probably know what happened next. With a firm tug I popped off the hot water valve pipe from the engine...and out comes a deluge of coolant. I had a drain pan under the transmission in anticipation of some leakage, but I may as well have attempted to bail out the Titanic with a coffee cup. Seriously, though, I did manage to catch a decent amount of it and cleaned up the rest (paying special attention to cleaning off the frame, etc.).
When it came to doing the slave cylinder, it was most definitely as big a pain as I had heard. There's just no easy way in there. Like I said, I took a mix of tips from several threads. I kept the hard line on and disconnected it from underneath at the fitting on top of the transmission. With all of the stories I found of those lines snapping at the slave fitting, I figured it would be best to handle that on the bench. Then, with fingers crossed, working from the top I removed both of the bolts holding it on. Luckily, they both came out in one piece! With everything undone I then pulled the whole assembly out from the top. Again, without that pipe out of the way I don't have a clue how it would have come out.
That is how it remains for now. I plan to put the new one in tomorrow evening, and finish it all up when I get the hot water valve and hoses in hand. Wish me luck! :smile:
+10000000000Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike F
Once that hose on the block is removed and out of the way, dare I say this is a pretty simple job. Getting the slave cylinder back in was a snap also.
If I had to do the slave cylinder again and didn't have the engine drained of coolant I'd still do it the same way ... Prior to removing the hose I'd just clamp it off at the hot water valve and be ready with a rubber plug to stuff in the barb fitting on the block. I bet you could get away with minimal coolant loss this way.
Mark, it was actually your take on this job that led me to removing that pipe. Thanks for the tip!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
I began the horribly greasy mess that is involved with rebuilding the CV joint, 4 new boots and grease to install after I finish removing every spec of the ancient hardened grease in there. Ill also sandblast and repaint the shafts and joint housings since the plating is gone and the POR 15 I put on years ago never turned out well.
Found these badges, will put one on the engine cover and one inside the engine bay;
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e6...psa9864b91.jpg
Rounding down, eh?Quote:
Originally Posted by Starglider
Awesome! I'm glad I was able to help make this job easier for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike F
Actually with Ed's low-compression turbo pistons I think my engine is closer to 2.9, but I couldn't find '2.9L V6' badges anywhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
I did some painting today. I can always gauge how well a project is going by the amount of blood I lose.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delo...cts/ouch01.jpg
Protip...razor blades are sharp.
Shit, what happened to the rest of your fingers????Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny_Z
I thought the photo looked odd. Guess it wasn't just my eyes playing tricks. I do have all my fingers. I just managed to slice my thumb. Red had a little red color again.
Removed the:
- Lower engine cover
- Rear fascia and stiffener
- Rear impact absorber
- Alternator
- Muffler and all three brackets
- Muffler and lower fascia heat shields
- Charcoal canister
- Mixture unit with all fuel components
- Intake manifold
- 90% of the coolant
Started to take off the half-shafts but SOMEBODY used an impact driver on them last time we reinstalled em and I can't budge the stupid things by hand. So I'll just make him take them off as punishment :)
Record time for me at 3:45 to do all that. Started to feel a little freaked out that I was getting so good at it. Had a little "yes!" moment when I saw the completely dry and debris-free valley.
Tomorrow I think I'll try to get the radiator replaced. Friday I might tackle the flex fuel hoses at the accumulator.
Implemented the Cooling Fan mod kit from DMC-NW. It was a little more leaning into the fuse box area than I was hoping for, but very good instructions and worked a treat. Also implemented the suggestion in the instructions to decouple the startup of the fans from the compressor.
Next up... new radiator and Toby fans.
Fitted new Bosch two-tone horn set. Spliced a relay into the circuit near the stalk to unload the horn switch (the new horns draw twice the current of stock; didn't want contact arcing);
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e6...psc9b7b39b.jpg
Also fitted a relay to the main lighting switch to take the sidelights / tail lights / panel lighting current (John Hervey's headlight switch saver mod).
Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
You are a machine!
That's nothin!Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
Today I removed the fans, condenser and radiator. Installed Ed's radiator from DMC-EU. It was a perfect drop-in fit and looks like a million bucks - too bad it will be hidden behind the ugly as sin but still perfectly functional factory condenser. Tried to run the system up to pressure with my tester, but with only air. Boy did that not work. Guess I'll just have to test everything once the motor is back together.
Protip: if you think you might replace ANY of the front cooling system (radiator, condenser, fans) you should save yourself a HUGE amount of hassle and just do all three at once. Save yourself the utter sh1t sandwich of trying to wrangle one part out with the others connected. It would have been so easy to just cut the whole thing loose with a knife and install a whole new 3-layer assembly. You'll just end up doing the others later anyway... think of it as insurance :)
Stopped by an alignment shop today to see about getting an alignment to go with the new tires. No openings until next Thursday, hrmph. So made an appointment for then. Also tried doing some minor door adjustments as they got tweaked a little bit when I replaced the windshield last year. And finally I replaced my wideband O2 sensor yet again. This is now my 4th one. Hrmph. This time I also got the "heaksink extender bung" to go with it, and reinstalled the 1.2rc4 firmware one more time. Damn LC1. If it fails on me one more time I'm getting a completely different system. Who would have thought the O2 sensor would be the most frustrating part of my EFI conversion?
hello,Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
have you got some troubles with the LC-1 ?
I've just installed this kit on my efi ( renault renix ecu ) http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...roductid=16291
Finally finished my front suspension overhaul, now to start on the rear...
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...6&d=1369398879
That looks GREAT! Man, what a difference :thumbup: !Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
That's the height I'd like my car to sit at. My front end is a little too low for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy