What have you done to your DeLorean today?

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I went to my first auto show. It was a special olympics charity thing.

While I love the car I'm not much for dealing with strangers so I sat a few cars away. Thanks to this forum I thought to bring something to prevent people from sitting in it. I brought a scale model of the James Webb Telescope to leave in the driver seat and a Matt Smith bobble head for the other one. Weirdly I blew a fuse for the radio.

Played Pokemon Go to pass the time. I noticed that while people took pictures of most of the cars, mine was the only one where people posed to be included with the car.

Just ordered mine! Thanks Christian!

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Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich

I got them from super bright leds.com. 38mm festoon, 6 leds per bulb, 105 lumens. $6.95 each. I also ordered these for my trunk and my tag lights but I haven't installed them yet. These have a special circuit in it so you will have to remove your dimmer because it won't shut off but it will turn off and on when you open and close the doors. Only downfall but no big deal.

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Originally Posted by dmcnc

Just ordered mine! Thanks Christian!

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Glad to help! [emoji3]

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Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich

It does have quite a large capacitor on it but it fit perfect within the new reproduction dome lights. No mods needed. Just snapped right in. If you dont mind it not dimming they turn on and off like any other light. The pictures really don't do it justice when you actually see you in person when it's completely dark outside. You go to open that door up and that whole interior comes to life all completely lit up. Total it 210 lumens of the 2 combined. All the lighting in my car is totally custom

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The LEDs with switching regulators are not any brighter than an LED with resistor or other current regulation. Switching regulators can be more efficient (not as much wasted power in heat generated) but are usually only used with very high power LEDs. Using them with my dome unit will mess up the logic of how my dome unit works. I switch power off very quickly to check there is still a light still powered. With that capacitor on the LED switching power off that quickly does not show me there is still a load.

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Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster

The LEDs with switching regulators are not any brighter than an LED with resistor or other current regulation. Switching regulators can be more efficient (not as much wasted power in heat generated) but are usually only used with very high power LEDs. Using them with my dome unit will mess up the logic of how my dome unit works. I switch power off very quickly to check there is still a light still powered. With that capacitor on the LED switching power off that quickly does not show me there is still a load.

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I never did say they were any brighter than normal LEDs. I was just stating what you told me the other night about the switching regulators and listing the specs. All my lights go out completely when Switched Off and I even checked the dome lights with the meter and both read nothing

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Originally Posted by DMC-81

Over the past 2 days, I got a few jobs done on the interior. First, I installed my front speakers. Member Kukem helped me on extensions for the 4mm studs.

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Looks good! Did you have much trouble using the extensions? Also, I am very interested in how you went about that fuse box replacement. I need to do mine too. I have the write up from here for reference.

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Originally Posted by DMC-81

... Member Kukem helped me on extensions for the 4mm studs.

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Can you elaborate? I didn't know there were extensions available.

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Originally Posted by Morpheus

Can you elaborate? I didn't know there were extensions available.

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See: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?81...ment-made-easy

I just replaced my front speakers this weekend and used the 4mm x 30mm brass stud extensions that I bought on eBay here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/M4x30mm-Bras...AAAOSwqYBWnMpr

Andy

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Originally Posted by Morpheus

Can you elaborate? I didn't know there were extensions available.

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Sure. Here is a picture of the extensions. They have a 7 mm body.

Attachment 44467

I installed them on the 4mm speaker studs..

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They didn't screw all the way to the bottom of the studs so there was enough of a gap to handle the tweeter protrusion. Then, I checked the clearances..

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Again, the extensions alone prevented the tweeter pressing against the dashboard, but I opted to help fill in the approx. 3/8" gap between the mounting rim of the speaker and the dashboard surface. So I RTV siliconed a 3.125" diameter x 3/8" thick rubber o-ring to the rim. It was perfectly flush with the tweeter.

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Upon installation, I used the existing small 4mm washer between the brass stud and the speaker, and a new 4mm fender washer between the speaker and the lock nut. This provided a tight mounting.

Thanks again Kukem!

Cheers,

Today I decided to inspect my front suspension. I found this little crack on the back of the driver side hub / steering knuckle where one of the bolts goes through. Not sure how long it's been there, and it even looks like it may have been broken off and glued back before though I can't be sure.

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Has anybody else had this happen? Can it be repaired or do I need to get a new one?