I just spay some solvent into the open valve and give it some hard twisting so the valve moves. You could put a few drops of thin oil onto the valve parts after.Quote:
Originally Posted by Morpheus
Printable View
I just spay some solvent into the open valve and give it some hard twisting so the valve moves. You could put a few drops of thin oil onto the valve parts after.Quote:
Originally Posted by Morpheus
I sprayed carb/MAF cleaner & then penetrating oil into mine. I also have a pigtail that I use to exercise the motor full CW & CCW. As I recall, the center pin is 12Vdc and tapping either of the other two to ground moves it CW or CCW. Do not wire in any other configuration or failure may result.
If it is particularly gunked up, plug an end and let the penetrating oil sit and do its thing.
Anyone have any other methods?
Thank you Dave. Sorry I was slow to respond (PC issues).Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Thank you nkempQuote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
I may be able to answer my own question with this link:-Quote:
Originally Posted by OZ DMC
http://www.k-jet.org/articles/inform...ging-guide/#41
Enjoy
Grounded the steering column in preparation for my horn slip ring.
Attachment 44917
Today, I finished removing the top door seal brackets to put new seals on them. Drilling 16 rivets out with the outer door skin in close proximity was stressful. I got it done though by taking my time and measuring clearances, plus following an online guide which was great. I am trying to do this job without completely removing the T panel which is glued securely in the middle.
Carefully lifting the rear portion of the T panel slightly..
Attachment 45036
I put a 3/8" clear vinyl hose over the torsion bars and further protected the area with a towel. One rivet drilled out..
Attachment 45037
And so on until all rivets were done. I slid the seal bracket down slightly. Then closed the door. I used a pick through the holes in the bracket to slide the seal unit rearward and under the T panel. Then I had the bottom half of the rivets to deal with.
Attachment 45038
I carefully drilled them just enough so they would drop in the door cavity..
Attachment 45044
Old crusty seals and new ones..
Attachment 45043
I also noticed the my striker guides had some rusty screw heads..
Attachment 45040
I took them off, cleaned and re-grained the guides and installed SS equivalent screws...
Attachment 45041
Much better looking..
Attachment 45042
Next weekend I'll install the new seals.
What a car to own for a guy like you, eh? LOL. :thumbup2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Peripatetic
I understand though. How do you do when you're approached filling up or in a parking lot?
BEAUTIFUL. Do you ever drive roads with those underglow lights on?Quote:
Originally Posted by EdR5150
I think in Cali I'd be screwed. It's too bad these aren't really road legal AFAIK.
I like the BTTF feel it gives without actually converting anything. I might have to do something like this when I get a D. I don't really fancy the idea of all that stuff hanging off a car I'd probably enjoy driving to more than car shows and it's nice to see cars that remind me of the movie car without actually being one. Looks great!
Can you share the guide? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC-81
Sure! It was written by John Spangler. http://www.johnspangler.com/DMC/roofseals.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by BABIS
Not completely removing the T panel was my only deviation. I'll see if that works when I install the new ones.
I also measured the clearances and put them in photo comments on my interior restoration album if that helps any.
:wrenchin: