Does it by any chance fire and stay running if you keep the starter cranking? I ask because it happened to me once. Had to make new connectors for the ignition bypass relay in the engine bay.Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
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Does it by any chance fire and stay running if you keep the starter cranking? I ask because it happened to me once. Had to make new connectors for the ignition bypass relay in the engine bay.Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
Nope, cranks but no fire. Smells of gas and I can hear the meat grinder fuel pump working. Checked connectors including ICU but no happiness. Battery is strong/ Voltages seem right.Quote:
Originally Posted by opethmike
What is the ignition bypass relay?
it sits just to the left of the Ballast resistor. You have an Early VIN, but you should have one.
It's purpose is provide Full battery voltage to the coil while cranking only, then the Ballast resistor takes over suppling about 8V to the Coil for norm running.
You've checked all the connections on the Resistor?
One other possibility, pull a plug wire and borrow a spare plug from another source (lawn mower, chain saw, etc) and check for spark. If you do get spark, Its possible all that previous no start cranking may have flooded the engine. The only way to clear it is to floor while cranking. You should clear and at least try to fire eventually. This assumes spark is present.
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OK. Sounds reasonable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris 16409
Ron
It started but I'm not sure where the problem is.... but it is narrowed down to a particular part.
Instead of restful sleep last night I spent the night troubleshooting in my mind. Today I pulled the distributor sensor connector to measure the sensor resistance (Hervey indicates it should be about 550 Ohms). Some of my first readings were in the M-Ohm range. Much higher than the 550 I was looking for.
Time to jiggle some wires and yes, the resistance dropped into the 400 Ohm range. When I turned the key after that, it started in milliseconds.
So next I tried to get a mega-Ohm reading again but with no luck. Fixed? Probably not.
And the car wonders why I have trust issues with it.
Narrowed the no start issue to where the tachometer wire attaches at the distributor. I REALLY DON'T WANT TO GO INTO THE VOD AGAIN! Sometimes I think I should install wingnuts to make it easier.
Using a long screwdriver and poking the connector at the distributor I could get the circuit to open and then close. At some point it stayed closed. I suspect corrosion but it could be a bad wire or connector. If it is corrosion, the poking eventually caused it to clear... for now. Only way to know for sure is to remove the connector at the distributor. And best I can tell, I need to remove the intake manifold to get to the screw holding the connector in.
Check the little plug at the firewall from the coil to the computer. It's a weak spot and comes loose easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by nkemp
+1 to this; this has been an issue for me before.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael
Today I began planning out what work I would like to do the donor LS4 motor while it's on the stand before going into my car.
My firewall plug is tight.. very tight. Does yours have the spring retaining clip? It does a great job of keeping them together and kinda a pain to get them apart.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael
I suspect the tachometer wire connector at the distributor because of the flakey resistance readings across the coil when I jiggle and poke the connector at the distributor.
BTW ... these wires are $144 +SH&H from DMCH.