What reading do you get on the dwell on a warm engine now?
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What reading do you get on the dwell on a warm engine now?
You could look into what I put in post No.23 (#23) in:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15...umpiness/page3
Good luck
When the motor first starts, cold, it starts on the cold start valve. It is not exactly metered and is overly rich. Kind of like a choke on a carbureated car. It only squirts while cranking so it stops shooting in fuel quickly but it takes a moment for all of that fuel to be vaporized and consumed. Once consumed the motor has to "get used to" the leaner mixture so it slows down, overshoots, the idle motor overcompensates, the idle shoots up and the idle motor has to again compensate. The pulses dampen out but it takes a few cycles. The idle ECU does not communicate with the Ignition ECU or the Lambda ECU so they all act simultaneously sometimes against each other. Each ECU operates independently but are connected because they all control the same motor but each has it's own function so some functions overlap and some don't. The quality of the idle is very dependent on all of the cylinders working exactly equally. Especially till the motor warms up and the Lambda ECU can get into "Closed Loop".
Bottom line, some hunting when cold is to be considered normal and you do not try to "fix" it.
Video evidence of non hunting when cold is in post No.30
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15...umpiness/page3
I would love to come over to visit, when I get some time/ funds. I'm definitely sold on Beer and BBQ ;)
I have dwell meter and multimeter. What setting does one use to check the RPM of the engine and where are the probes placed in the engine?
Most RPM meters use the ignition coil (negative side). There are some optical RPM meters but you usually need to add a foil reflector on the pulley.