Looks great! Im in the process of bolting my chassis together as well!Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick774
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Looks great! Im in the process of bolting my chassis together as well!Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick774
Today I drove my car and nothing went wrong! After weeks of fighting electrical issues, this was a welcome relief!
Did you strip the entire frame or just as needed and retouch?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick774
Completed a few little catch-up jobs up front on the left:
1. Replaced the clutch reservoir line (pulled the original and "sweaty"-but-still-OK) just for piece of mind.
2. Wiped down the frame where the clutch fluid spilled as the lower clutch reservoir hose connection came loose, as expected. At least I managed to suction the fluid out of the reservoir first.
3. Refilled and tested.
3. While both of the trunk access panels were off for that job:a. Strung a secondary/backup trunk release pull-wire from the trunk latch lever to an inconspicuous but accessible location inboard of the left frt suspension. Inspected main release cable at both ends (OK).
b. Removed, cleaned, reattached the multi-wire ground lugs that are held by the 10mm bolt that's remarkably easy to get to on top of the frame - when the brake access cover is off.
I bought some new 48 SMD LED boards off of eBay and was looking for places to use them. I ended up installing one in the engine bay light, and it is 100 times brighter than ever before! At night, I feel I could actually change an alternator belt on the side of the road now. Well worth it. I also ended up using one on each side of the car for footwell lighting when the doors open up. It looks very modern and is a nice, soft, white light. I can't stand the cold white LED lighting that you see sometimes. I also wired the lights so that both sides come on when either door is opened, like a modern vehicle.
Here is the 48 LED board that I put in the engine compartment light, as well as the old 9 LED festoon bulb that I removed. It never really threw much light.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...7&d=1376859151
For some reason this picture is flipped horizontally, but you get the idea:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...6&d=1376859141
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...8&d=1376859202
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...9&d=1376859230
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...0&d=1376859272
Installed Bitsyncmaster's solid state fan and fan fail relays. They work and look terrific, as expected. Not so for my continuing attempt to find LED brake lights which are as bright or brighter than stock and last. I tried these 1156 Cree center bulb with 12 SMD side emitting LED's http://www.ebay.com/itm/330972868919...84.m1439.l2649 Last week, when 2 bulbs arrived so I could test them before I bought 4, within 15 seconds 1 bulb's center Cree LED failed with a bad electrical burning smell. I emailed the seller and they quickly sent a replacement. Today, within 10-15 seconds, original good bulb had center Cree out and other bulb was lit but smoking as it self-destructed. The inside of my car is almost all LED but stable brake lights remain elusive. Members over at hidplanet.com put down these plug and play bulbs since they have no or little voltage regulation/current limiting capabilities. Many of you seem to have good luck with these bulbs but buyer beware on the above ones.
I hope I fixed my worst leak coming from the left cam cover under the AC belt tensioner, one of the old bolts was too short and not gripping, New bolts with sealant on them should do the trick.
Also glued in the lower engine lid grilles, No more heavy and unsightly metal retainer strips, Also reglued my driver upper door panel that wasnt quite on straight before.
jmpdmc-Quote:
Originally Posted by jmpdmc
When I converted mine over to LED I used these bulbs for my brake lights:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...led-tower/163/
They are a bit pricey, but they are quite bright. I'd say even brighter than the standard incandescent bulbs. Installed them back in March and they're still (knock on wood) running strong.
I drove 3205 471 miles (753 km) from Vancouver to Kelowna and back to see a band. All in a little over 14 hours.
I saw 120 mph on a few occasions, the fastest I've ever driven.
Here's an amusing picture coming down the mountains into Kelowna... in neutral.
Attachment 21426
Glad I've got that 170 speedo...that way I don't have to worry about pegging the speedo.
Yeah, I have to rely on a GPS for speeds above 85.Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle-co94
Something I've always wondered - is there anything mechanically "bad" about pegging these speedos? I've worked a lot with tiny gear trains in my other hobby (repairing vintage watches) and know that these things can be touchy. What happens if you get to 90 with the OEM speedo? Is it going to grind anything internally?Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle-co94
There are a good many reports on the DML of the speedo getting stuck when pegged, which is why I've never run my car beyond 85mph.Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/about/bill203.shtmlQuote:
Originally Posted by NightFlyer
The 50 over law in Ontario is a good enough reason for me. Most highways in rural areas are 80 kmph zones and the major divided highways are 100 kmph. 50 over would be at 130 kmph and 150 kmph... which is about 81 mph and 93 mph. I'll pass on the impounded car for 1 week, immediate license suspension and $10,000 fine, thanks.
That makes no sense. Have some reference links?Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlyer
The speedometer needle is magnetically driven. There is nothing to clash if the needle is pegged. The only thing which could happen, and this extremely remote, is a loss of needle calibration if it slides on the shaft due to the torque from the drive mechanism.
And just to add to that...
I've twice had my car going 125mph. No problems with the speedometer due to the speed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
No it wont hurt the needle or anything like that, the needle is turned with a spinning magnet so there are no real gears to grind or any physical connection that can bind up, the odometer is all gear reduction and could be damaged but only if there was already a cracked gear or lack of grease. The cable it self could bind but only if it instantly ran out of lubrication too.
The difference between a 85 mph speedo and a 140 mph speedo is merely the strength of the needle return spring which the rotating magnet has to spin faster to over come, the odometer and gearing is the same and a pretty standard design across hundreds of car models.
Never said it was right - just something that I had previously read over a decade ago. While I searched the DML, I couldn't find anything regarding this, however, am certain that I read it somewhere a long time ago. I just can't find it now. As the DeLorean gauge cluster uses a GM design, I believe that the 'myth' predicated from the fact that some GM speedo's of that era were known to get stuck when pegged, which is easy enough to verify by doing a simple Google search. Apparently, GM was using multiple designs at the time, however, the DeLorean was not fitted with a design known to exhibit this problem. It would appear that the problematic designs were early electronic designs, and not mechanical.Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
Accordingly, I stand corrected.
I retimed her. Driving yesterday there was a noticeable lack of power and sputtering. I guess I'm just dumb and didn't tighten down the nut all the way. Some how she worked her way down to 8 degrees. I made sure to tighten it down after I set her back. I don't want to go through that again and if I do I'm going to buy a longer wrench.
Cool man, thanks! Never taken a speedo apart before. If you remember that pocket watch I gave you that only lasted 5 minutes, you'll see that my "repair" skills are quite limited.... :lol: - but the concepts are there.Quote:
Originally Posted by vwdmc16
We chipped away for days to reveal all weak areas and repainted as necessary with POR15 gray. I welded in some patches where needed and touched up any areas with some lab metal with POR15 over that too. My lovely lady restored most of the frame herself with all the painting and lab metal. I just did the patching and welding.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC81
Was a couple days ago, but nonetheless, this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1ffE...ature=youtu.be
And let me tell you, getting those doors adjusted JUST right to where they will latch properly and open by ways of the remote - that is some surgical precision there. I was moving those striker pins probably in terms of millimeters to get it just perfect. Needless to say, shaky hands are not helpful.
Patrick C - one day - we'll adjust my doors via your method. As for now, they open beautifully, and they "stop" just before the top of their journey. I am so not messing with them for a while.
Attachment 21542Attachment 21543Attachment 21544
Yep, I knew it was going to smooth 1,2 & 3 came right out and then..SNAP on the fourth one! :nervous:
That one commonly breaks. Whatever you do, do NOT use a screw extractor on it!Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC81
+1, that is the one and only bolt ever to break on my car. Dunno what it is about that spot, but it's common. You'll get through it!Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
I'm not going to be the one doing it but may I ask why not?Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
Here on DMCTalk alone there are at least 10 of us who've experienced the fun of breaking off an extractor in the bolt. That is much much much worse than dealing with a plain ol' bolt. Usually in this very spot.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC81
Well thanks for the tip, I will definitely pass it on to the guy who is going to do it for me. I have never removed a broken bolt and I dont plan to practice on my car...lolQuote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
August 2nd -
1. Replaced the alternator
2. Added LED bulbs to the doors
3. Changed the oil
4. Replaced the oil sending unit
August 22d -
1. Replaced the angle drive
Thanks for all the help Kyle....
Opened the garage and looked at it.
Closed the garage.
Sighed heavily.
The reason that one seems to break is due to corrosion which is precipitated from the steel coolant pipe tab under the bolt head. It is a bit like cancer, it starts on the pipe and migrates onto the bolt then into the aluminum casting where corrosion process turns the aluminum into a thick oxide layer (seizing the shank of the bolt to the Y-pipe).Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC81
I have had good luck removing that Broken bolt in the past. The trick is to get the Y-PIPE loose. Apply a good penetrant on the broken bolt and let soak. (I prefer Aero Kroil) Then with the other bolts out, you can Twist the Y-pipe a little to hopefully release the casting from the bolt stub and remove the pipe. Worst case you may have too Step drill the bolt somewhat to Full diameter. Depth is important. The goal being not to drill the bolt out, but rather just into it enough to get the Y-pipe OFF. With the y-pipe out of the way, hopefully there is still a fair amount of bolt shank sticking above the Threaded Case hole. At this point a couple things can be done to remove the bolt stub. Both require HEAT. When I did this I used a Very HOT HEAT GUN with a concentrating TIP. An Oxy/Acetylene torch would be Ideal or a Simple Bottle torch (I prefer MAPP gas [it's Hotter] over Propane) would work too. I simply applied heat to the Casting Boss. Then with a good VISE-GRIP clamped on the exposed STUB I was able to get it to come loose, Rocking back and forth, it took several bites (repositions of the Vise-Grip) But it eventually came out. Once out a chased the casting hole with the appropriate M7 x 1.00 TAP to clean the threads.
An alternate method would be to MIG weld a nut to the bolt shank. The HEAT transfer will also shock and cook any corrosion that may be down in the thread zone.
If the above is not doable because the bolt shank snapped Flush to the case, then you will need to drill into the CENTER of the bolt and carefully step it out for the appropriate Screw EXTRACTOR. You MAY still need to use some heat to get the threads to release (unless you a very lucky with penetrating oil)
GOOD LUCK
Took a tow-truck ride thanks to a ruptured fuel hard-line (tank/pump to accumulator, part #106983) during rush hour traffic in downtown Lansing.
Before I trying the screw extractor I'd try welding a washer to the bit of bolt and then a nut to that washer. Like this: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?56...using-a-welder You can still drill through if that doesn't work but if you break off a screw extractor you are beyond screwed. Pun intended.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Ouch! Sorry to hear it. The hard line itself gave out? Can't say I've ever heard of that happening. Good luck with the fix...Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlyer
Split/ruptured mid-line, about where the fuel tank closing plate ends. Must have been a defective piece from the supplier or was damaged during install at Dunmurry. Already temporarily fixed with a slightly rerouted piece of new steel hardline. A proper repair and replacement of all fuel lines will occur over winter hibernation. I plan on doing all stainless hard-lines and teflon lined braided stainless soft lines.Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Are any of these hard fuel lines the ones which would require the body to be lifted up slightly off the frame to get at and replace? I don't know from my own experience, I just heard that sort of comment at one point...Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlyer
I need to replace my fuel filter one of these days and I don't need to snap anything borderline impossible to fix in the process. We broke a hard fuel line a couple seasons ago doing the accumulator, but that pin hole was in an accessible area. If one line got twisted enough to leak/develop a pin hole, my assumption would be the rest of them could be candidates as well.
Rear Brake Calipers de-dusting with mean green and de-rusting with apple cider vinegar.
Yes, in order to properly change the line that failed on me, a body/frame separation would be necessary.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
I'm not sure if such is required with the steel hard line that runs from the accumulator to the fuel filter, or if it can be finagled into place without having to do this. With that said, it's much easier to simply run a teflon-lined braided stainless soft line between the accumulator and the fuel filter, should the stock/OEM steel hard line ever get damaged or fail on you.
That line can be snaked in from the front by slightly lifting the body, it doesn't have to be raised much.Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlyer
The accumulator to the filter is the really nasty one.
I was hoping that it wouldn't have to be raised very much - thanks for confirming this :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
As for the accumulator to the filter hard line, mine is still good, but I do plan on swapping out the original line with a stainless hard line over the winter. If it looks like it will be a major PITA, then I'll probably just do as I stated here and run a teflon-lined braided stainless soft line instead, as I'm guessing most people do that aren't undergoing a complete frame-off restoration. The line from the fuel filter to the fuel distributor has to be longer than that line, and the stock/OEM application for that run is a soft line, so I really don't see such a swap as constituting any kind of safety issue.