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Replaced the original TABs, bushings and started a ground upgrade. The TABs you can barely tell that there bent. OK there's only a little over 16000 miles on the OD.
For the gounds I replaced the battery cable. Ran cables to the transmission and ran it to the front of the car. Needed to order more cable ends so the front isn't connected yet. With the little bit that's there I gained a volt at idle. I was getting a little over 13 volts at idle.
I went with 2 gauge welding cable
Dave B.
What bushings did you use as replacement? I want to get these changed out this winter, but debating between Poly or rubber bushings.Quote:
Originally Posted by WHO1DMC
I went with the rubber ones for peace of mind. Are poly trailing arm bushings worth the price? I didn't want to take the chance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate88
David B.
Thanks for the reply. Are the poly bushings "bad" or have a tendency to fail? I always thought that the Poly option for suspensions was the "better" option.Quote:
Originally Posted by WHO1DMC
Not that they are all "bad" but they tend to be a bit more of a harsher feel. This thread mentions that harsher feel and brings up concern of a "bad batch" of bushings that are out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate88
Last night I repeated the "jar test" of my fuel injectors to decide if I should replace one of them or not. A couple days ago, #4 seemed to have a slightly off pattern, cocked to one side but still atomizing with no drippage. My plan was to swap that injector with #3 so that I could replace the injector a lot easier later if I decide to do so once the car is running again. While I had #3 and #4 out, I sprayed some more carb cleaner into them and blew them out a few times with compressed air (rubber nozzle on gun). I installed them in the swapped positions and then jumped the fuel pump again. Confirmed no drips and then ensured they are all spraying simultaneously when tapping the air meter plate. Seems like #3 and #4 were partially full of air so I pushed harder on the plate (about 1/2 way) until the injectors were singing and after a few seconds they evened out. A few more taps on the plate to confirm synchronicity and it looks like the former #4 is now working normally again. Must have blasted a bit of crap out of it! Nice. They all look really good so I ran a volume test for one minute and I can't tell a volume difference in any of the six mason jars. At least not enough to bother putting into a graduated cylinder. I think I'm ready to finish buttoning this car back up!
Hey by the way - how do you add photos so they appear larger and not just a thumbnail? I'm using the "manage attachments" function. And sometimes my portrait-oriented photos are appearing as landscape. How do you fix this?
Attachment 66991
Since the carb cleaner seemed to do some good, I'd dump some quality injector cleaner in the tank.Quote:
Originally Posted by 82DMC12
As for the pic display size- While still in the editor, double click the image and a menu will pop up giving you size options.
I don't know of any orientation problems, except rotation which is caused by pics with EXIF data (apple etc.)...vBulletin doesn't use it. The solution is to make sure they are "correct" before uploading.
(PM me if you need more help.)
P.S. BEAUTIFUL pics, btw!
I just installed the DGo one. Easy enough. Probably drive it tomorrow. On this one the bolts are long and go through the rod end, a stand off bushing and then into the tower. Is that how yours is? Seems like the bushing should have a bolt out one end and a threaded hole on the other. That way, you would not be removing the strut bolts when removing the brace. (At least, in my mind that's how it should work)Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael
On this subject, I saw a Utube video where the guy said to flush the injectors backwards with injector cleaner. He said that each injector has a filter in it. Can anyone confirm this?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
Replaced my 3 year old Interstate MT78 battery with an AC Delco maintenance free 78. Symptoms were a sudden appearance of a fast drain on the battery when sitting in the garage.
Measured it and found it was only a 24ma standby draw, which is within expected conditions, and the battery would drop from 100% charge to a 71% charge within a day of non-usage.
New battery has kept itself at 100% charge for 3 days now under same conditions.
Feeling confident the cold winters likely killed the battery.
It's always a good day when your engine starts on the first turn after having it open for a month! Nearly done with this project with was originally just a sudden hot start problem but turned into a "while I'm in there" job with some admittedly needed updates after 40 years. I've had this car for almost 21 years so it's like I'm on the second restoration now....
* new Delphi fuel pump system from DPI
* 13 line fuel set from DPI
* fuel accumulator and new high pressure flex lines and clamps
* fuel filter
* clean fuel injectors, new boots
* NGK spark plugs
* valve lash check, new valve cover gaskets and hylomar
* W-pipe hylomar sealing
* additional alternator grounding
* replaced nearly every piece of hardware I removed during the project
* a few other little clean-up and wire-routing projects
Thanks to Josh at DPI and the team at DMC Midwest for the parts and support!
https://imgur.com/o3xy61w