What have you done to your DeLorean today?

On those slide release bars, sanding them down and repainting them is a viable option. Like Jon said, be careful removing them as I don't know how frail yours are with the rust on them. If you get new rails and put your reconditioned slide release bars in them, it might work out just fine for you.

I managed to secure a set from a parts car early on when I just got my car. My car didn't come with any believe it or not and with the driver's seat being about 2-3 clicks more forward than I needed it, you can imagine what was going through my mind as I thought I might have just bought a car I don't fit in. Luckily it was just the bars missing and probably just weren't reinstalled after the seats were out getting redone.

I cleaned up a used pair, repainted and have been fine since.

Attachment 26736

I had the seats out and did a "while you're in there" project on both seat's mechanisms. The rust was patchy, but they cleaned up nicely and took the paint (Rust conversion primer and the semi-gloss black Rustoleum). On re-assembly I also reapplied some grease to the sliding mechanism in a few limited spots.

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

On those slide release bars, sanding them down and repainting them is a viable option. Like Jon said, be careful removing them as I don't know how frail yours are with the rust on them. If you get new rails and put your reconditioned slide release bars in them, it might work out just fine for you.

I managed to secure a set from a parts car early on when I just got my car. My car didn't come with any believe it or not and with the driver's seat being about 2-3 clicks more forward than I needed it, you can imagine what was going through my mind as I thought I might have just bought a car I don't fit in. Luckily it was just the bars missing and probably just weren't reinstalled after the seats were out getting redone.

I cleaned up a used pair, repainted and have been fine since.

Attachment 26736

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My bars are toast so I'll keep an eye open for a better set and maybe do some thinking on making something new that is a little heavier material. It looks like you did a good job on getting your cleaned up, they look great! :thumbup2:

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Originally Posted by DrJeff

I had the seats out and did a "while you're in there" project on both seat's mechanisms. The rust was patchy, but they cleaned up nicely and took the paint (Rust conversion primer and the semi-gloss black Rustoleum). On re-assembly I also reapplied some grease to the sliding mechanism in a few limited spots.

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I was thinking of doing the same but my slides are pitted pretty bad so I think I'll just order a new set here soon, glad yours cleaned up good for you tho.:thumbup2:

Got really angry that my replacement AC idler bearing is squeaking again after replacing it with one of Hervey's "long lasting" blue seal bearings. Not even 6 months old and less than 1000 miles on it.

Installed the SS letters on the rear bumper. Looking sweet.

Trying to figure out what's wrong with my right angle drive. Can't get it out with the new spring set from 3 weeks ago. Bought a new cable from DMCH and thought it would be a simple swap, but no, it's longer than the original so I had to swap the hose, too. It doesn't seem to want to seat in the RA drive. I'm thinking part of my original cable broke off in there, or that side of the car wasn't put back together correctly (I was working on the passenger side the night we did the springs).

Sigh.

-Bob

remove the tie rod end and over extend the front inwards. This will angle for extra clearance. Nothing wrong with your spring install. If there was you would know very quickly.

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Originally Posted by DPI JOSH

remove the tie rod end and over extend the front inwards. This will angle for extra clearance. Nothing wrong with your spring install. If there was you would know very quickly.

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Thanks Josh. I'll give it a shot. I'm about to go change the brake pads tonight or tomorrow so I'll have the wheel off and can give it a proper look over.

Any hints on tightening that RA drive nut? The brake line to the caliper is extremely close, so much so that my wrench really can't around the nut.

I think nothing of it while doing it due to repetition and air tools so I always zip off the two 19mm caliper bolts for the clearance. You really want that nut tight. Always due a quick hub check to make sure it is not loose (up and down motion checking the bearing not side to side like a tie rod)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DPI JOSH

I think nothing of it while doing it due to repetition and air tools so I always zip off the two 19mm caliper bolts for the clearance. You really want that nut tight. Always due a quick hub check to make sure it is not loose (up and down motion checking the bearing not side to side like a tie rod)

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Maybe I'll wait till tomorrow. Duh, if I'm going to change the pads, I'll have the calipers off. I'm tired. Tired in a shop with power tools is dangerous. Need sleep.

Thanks again.

-Bob

Make sure to torque the caliper bolts per spec when assembling. Never trust impacts. :)

Tightened that right angle drive nut after figuring out what went wrong. When we did the springs 3 weeks ago, the wheels went back on the wrong sides, and the plastic plate that spins the cable stayed with the wheel. Problem fixed.

Torqued the caliper bolts down as well.

-Bob

Installed new tie-rod end boots to replace the remains (not much) of the stock/OEM boots, flushed the old brake fluid from the system replaced with new Valvoline DOT 3 and 4 and bled the brakes, oiled the oem angle drive with Lucas 80W90 gear oil, and greased the ball joints.

Up next is to drain the transaxle, replace a leaky lip seal, and refill.

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Originally Posted by NightFlyer

Up next is to drain the transaxle, replace a leaky lip seal, and refill.

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I probably don't need to say it, but make sure you can take out the fill plug before removing the drain plug, otherwise you gotta flip your car upside down to fill er back up ;-)

-Bob

Mounted a new set of Cooper CS4 tires. Loving them so far! :)

My father in law & I tore into the valley of death today to chase a coolant leak. Turns out the previous owner's mechanic didn't tighten one of the hose clamps in the valley of Death when he installed the new water pump. It was the fat hose on the y-pipe. I'm ordering the sealing kits and some new bolts.

I may also do the cap and rotor.Attachment 26806

Interesting day today. Went to a car show in a stately home called The Argory in Northern Ireland, was approached by a couple of people, one turned out to be a test car driver from back in the day. The other was an accountant called Gerry Gollogly, he was with JZD when he was arrested. Knew all the main people - John Z, Nick Sutton, Mike Loasby, etc. Couldn't believe it when I heard it. I wish I had recorded the conversation!

Was he one of the 50000 mile car guys or a factory employee

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Originally Posted by Dangermouse

Was he one of the 50000 mile car guys or a factory employee

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I took it he was one of the 50k guys. He mentioned Alain Prost doing some of the driving, (as in the F1 driver), have you ever heard that before or did I mishear him?

Oh Dermot one for the records, I stopped by SJ Davison Motors in Dungannon, they have a D with 400 miles on the clock. The main man wasn't there, and unfortunately neither was the car, but I did get the VIN, it's 10952. The fella I spoke to showed me some photos, the car looks mint. Apparently it came from the Netherlands?

I've fabbed a seat bar. Wasn't too bad really. At least that was when Lowes had the right diameter tubing. Now it's a little harder to find. I made a wooden jig to bend the tube then cut to length. Put the ends in a vice to flatten them and notched them for the return spring. That was 4 years ago and it still works fine. I should have made a couple extra sets before I tossed the jig.

Today I installed a new rf wheel bearing. A lot easier than I thought! Wish my Blazer was that easy.


-D Knight-

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Originally Posted by MML

I took it he was one of the 50k guys. He mentioned Alain Prost doing some of the driving, (as in the F1 driver), have you ever heard that before or did I mishear him?

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Never heard that one before.

However a quick google shows that

1977-1979 he raced Formula 3 with Renault
1980 raced F1 with MCLaren and Ulster driver John Watson
1981-83 F1 with Renault again.

So there are certainly plenty of tenuous links

Did the Renault engine contract come with Prost as a test driver. Seems more likely if the guy you met was a factory test driver.

On the other hand perhaps Watson had a link to the Autoclub that did the 50k and got him over that way?

Good conspiracy theories anyway. I must look into that a but more.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MML

Oh Dermot one for the records, I stopped by SJ Davison Motors in Dungannon, they have a D with 400 miles on the clock. The main man wasn't there, and unfortunately neither was the car, but I did get the VIN, it's 10952. The fella I spoke to showed me some photos, the car looks mint. Apparently it came from the Netherlands?

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Thanks

Started installing the new fuse box today but ran out of light, my back feels like it was folded in half...lol On a good note im 2/3 of the way done, pick it up tomorrow.Attachment 26807Attachment 26808

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Originally Posted by DMC81

Started installing the new fuse box today but ran out of light, my back feels like it was folded in half...lol On a good note im 2/3 of the way done, pick it up tomorrow.Attachment 26807Attachment 26808

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I FEEL you... a lot of us have been there... You will love it when it is DONE... lol... Relax, take Aleve... tomorrow you will feel better..

Craig

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Originally Posted by Silverbullet

I FEEL you... a lot of us have been there... You will love it when it is DONE... lol... Relax, take Aleve... tomorrow you will feel better..

Craig

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Thanks buddy, it's not as bad of a job as I thought, just so very time consuming..lol

I installed the delorean.eu LCA brackets, and replaced all the lugnuts with solid ones from Costco (part# 113124, only $.62 each)

Been a few months since my baby has been out and about due lots of odds and ends - accumulator, last few fuel line, last few coolant line, etc upgrades.

Spent the past week cleaning her up immaculately ready for a car show today.

Was running late (as always when you have kids), jumped in, and went to head off.... CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK. Was coming from the starter motor and was loud as hell. Tried repeatedly, same thing.

So I tried the conventional wisdom around here and pounded it with a hammer. It grabbed this time, except... half turned the motor and the whole car died... oh shit, flat battery! Damnit - my battery isn't in the best of health, but so long as I drive her at least once a month she's okay. But after a few months of merely starting for various tests I should have known she'd be dead.

Now, I've never had a dead battery in an urgent situation before... never. Always been in a position where I can just slap myself and put it on charge. So I don't have any jumper leads, and was late so didn't have 12 hours to charge...

Grabbed my charger and tried jumping it up to start directly off that... not smart but I was desperate. Better, but not enough juice... SHIT!

So I desperately grabbed every roll of electrical wire I had until I found some 20AMP household electrical wire... not ideal, but for the very short period of jumping the car hopefully sufficient to carry enough current. Cut a long length, stripped the ends, and twisted it straight between the jump points of my daily driver and the DeLorean. Started up the daily driver, and then turned the key on the DeLorean.

Thank heavens she started, at which point I tore off to the car show and stayed in one gear too low the whole way to rev the alternator. Had plenty of charge for the trip home, and yes I finally bought some jumper leads whilst I was out!

So the original chronic loud clicking or clacking of the starter that stopped when I pounded it - is she on the way out or was it just the incredibly flat battery?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tillsy

Been a few months since my baby has been out and about due lots of odds and ends - accumulator, last few fuel line, last few coolant line, etc upgrades.

Spent the past week cleaning her up immaculately ready for a car show today.

Was running late (as always when you have kids), jumped in, and went to head off.... CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK. Was coming from the starter motor and was loud as hell. Tried repeatedly, same thing.

So I tried the conventional wisdom around here and pounded it with a hammer. It grabbed this time, except... half turned the motor and the whole car died... oh shit, flat battery! Damnit - my battery isn't in the best of health, but so long as I drive her at least once a month she's okay. But after a few months of merely starting for various tests I should have known she'd be dead.

Now, I've never had a dead battery in an urgent situation before... never. Always been in a position where I can just slap myself and put it on charge. So I don't have any jumper leads, and was late so didn't have 12 hours to charge...

Grabbed my charger and tried jumping it up to start directly off that... not smart but I was desperate. Better, but not enough juice... SHIT!

So I desperately grabbed every roll of electrical wire I had until I found some 20AMP household electrical wire... not ideal, but for the very short period of jumping the car hopefully sufficient to carry enough current. Cut a long length, stripped the ends, and twisted it straight between the jump points of my daily driver and the DeLorean. Started up the daily driver, and then turned the key on the DeLorean.

Thank heavens she started, at which point I tore off to the car show and stayed in one gear too low the whole way to rev the alternator. Had plenty of charge for the trip home, and yes I finally bought some jumper leads whilst I was out!

So the original chronic loud clicking or clacking of the starter that stopped when I pounded it - is she on the way out or was it just the incredibly flat battery?

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Running a battery flat is never good for it. Some people keep trickle chargers or smart chargers on their car. If you have an Optima battery that may not be a good idea. I'm not a believer in trickle chargers unless they can read each cell individually.

Two things to do.
1, charge your battery correctly then take it to a parts store and have it load tested, replacing if necessary.

2, get yourself a jump box and keep it handy. I have 2, a small one I keep in whatever car I'm driving and a large one I keep in the garage. It has AC plugs, USB plugs, 12v plugs, and a compressor and light. Nice to have if the power goes out.
Whenever we set off on a trip there are a few things I keep in the trunk of our Volvo, tool kit, roadside kit, worklights, and that battery pack. It's good peace of mind.

Your symptoms are classic for a flat battery, not a starter problem. As Michael suggests, charge it and get it load tested. It may be toast.

I would also check that you don't have some sort of drain on your car that is running the battery down, depending on how long a freshly charged battery lasts when the car is parked.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Michael

Running a battery flat is never good for it.

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Absolutely - but it's not that I run it flat, it's just the battery is pretty stuffed. Basically it only holds enough juice for a few starts - if I drive her it's never a problem, but if I don't use her for a few months or recently I've been starting her to test various upgrades but not actually drive her, then she quickly dies. In such case I just give her a charge, but I completely forgot that she would likely be dead in the lead-up to today.

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Originally Posted by Michael

trickle chargers unless they can read each cell individually.

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Yeah I've got some funky one that goes through about 11 different stages of testing and charging and can determine the condition of the cells - helps it a bit but the battery is still pretty knackered. It's got me by a couple years now, but to be honest I reckon prior to my importing her someone either over charged it, let it sit flat for a long time, or charged it with a regular non-AGM charger... the way the battery acts, and reports during the test cycles, feels it was one or all of those scenarios.

Should replace it but keep putting it off as I know its behaviour so (except for today) can allow for it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Michael

get yourself a jump box and keep it handy. I have 2, a small one I keep in whatever car I'm driving and a large one I keep in the garage. It has AC plugs, USB plugs, 12v plugs, and a compressor and light. Nice to have if the power goes out.

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I've often thought about getting one of those as it'd be handy for both power outages and camping as well as car emergencies... hmmmmmmmmmm....

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Originally Posted by Dangermouse

Your symptoms are classic for a flat battery, not a starter problem.

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So you reckon the massive CLICK or CLACK the starter was making, really loud and really fast, was the battery and just coincidence that it grabbed and tried turning the motor when I whacked it one?

I do know the battery is stuffed, but if I've not driven her in a month it just causes her to struggle to turn the motor over... today was the first time it did that massive click/clack sound until I pounded it one.

The click clack was the solenoid energizing/de-energizing which is all the power the battery was capable if providing. Your thumping of the starter just gave it a little boost. Your starter may not be great but a fresh battery cures a lot of ills.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dangermouse

The click clack was the solenoid energizing/de-energizing which is all the power the battery was capable if providing. Your thumping of the starter just gave it a little boost. Your starter may not be great but a fresh battery cures a lot of ills.

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Darn, was hoping this would be justification to upgrade the starter to one of those awesome sounding ones ;)

Alrighty looks like I need to stop putting off the battery and just replace it...

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Originally Posted by Tillsy

Darn, was hoping this would be justification to upgrade the starter to one of those awesome sounding ones

Alrighty looks like I need to stop putting off the battery and just replace it...

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I got one of those starters even though I didn't need it. She does sound pretty cool cranking. Amost a shame it only takes a few spins to start.

and yeah, if it's not holding a charge any longer than that either you have a power draw or a shot battery..or both.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tillsy

Darn, was hoping this would be justification to upgrade the starter to one of those awesome sounding ones ;)

Alrighty looks like I need to stop putting off the battery and just replace it...

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Lol, I'm working on a customers car with damage to the stainless panels right now. He has one of these starters, and I thought the same thing. It does sound really cool! The thought crossed my mind for a second or two to replace mine. But alas, if it ain't broke....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tillsy

Darn, was hoping this would be justification to upgrade the starter to one of those awesome sounding ones ;)

Alrighty looks like I need to stop putting off the battery and just replace it...

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Sorry, perhaps you misread my previous post. Yes, your current starter is only good as a boat anchor and should be replaced at once. And you need a new battery. better? :)

This week I replaced the fuel filter and the fuel hose from the filter to the fuel distributor with a new SS braided line. I also fixed a bracket on the binnacle and did some exhaust manifold work. I'll share the details on the exhaust manifold fix after I put some more mileage on; however, until then I don't want to jinx it.

Andrew
4194

Mechanical testing miles driven in 2014: Aprox 230...trouble free thus far.

Machined a modification for my internal spring compressor. I made a block cut from 1.75 " bar stock that bolts into the shock mount holes on the LCA. This block provides the seat for the long threaded rod that compresses the spring.

Finished brake job and seat covers so we went on a long road test run. Noted blue smoke for first five miles, and erratic idle, hunting.
Did a compression test, these are the numbers......35, 75, 130,140, 130, and 120. That explains my bad blow by issues. Sounds like an overhaul
in the future. Still coming to Ohio probably on a trailer! Question...is it bad to drive with low compression? What can happen? Ideas?

Paul Cerny #2691
Kalispell, MT

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Originally Posted by Dangermouse

Did the Renault engine contract come with Prost as a test driver. Seems more likely if the guy you met was a factory test driver.

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I was thinking along those lines too. Wish I had pulled him up on it.

Oh yes. Was in South Donegal today at another show. I parked in a picnic area in the middle of Barnesmore Gap for a bite to eat on the way home. Some hikers were walking along and came over to see the car. One of them says to me, "Do you know Neal Barclay? He's a mate of mine."

Small world eh??