Josh Q/VIN 3307's Custom DPI Twin-Turbo E.F.I. Project Build

It's been 9 days since I last posted here. Not a whole lot has changed; this is due to missing parts and information....I've texted, emailed, FB messaged, DMCTalk messaged, every other way I can think of to try to get ahold of Josh Bengston and no help with information on installation.
-I was told by Josh B that my missing wastegate dump pipes and fitting would be reshipped again, this time to my home address on Monday the 11th per the DPI business email response. We live 2 hours apart. I still don't have the parts and no tracking numbers provided for either shipments.....update=Josh just emailed the tracking info to me shortly after this post. Thanks Josh!

I decided to look more closely at my twin-turbo kit small parts and discovered more missing or "doesn't come with the kit" parts such as:
-Turbo oil drain gaskets for both turbos (2). I did get both hose adapters and even the bolts though. I believe these should have came with the kit.
-Turbo to turbo/wastegate pipe hardware (8 bolts, nuts, and washers to mount both turbos). Hardware store I bet is the answer.
-Turbo oil drain hose to block adapters (2 for both sides-something like 1/2 NPT to 10 or 12 AN). I believe these should have came with the kit.
-Turbo to tail pipe gaskets and hardware. (2 gaskets and 8 bolts, nuts, and washers for both sides). The gaskets should have come with the kit. bolts-see above guess.
-Turbo coolant outlet hose to engine adapters (2). I received 4 complete AN push-loc hose assemblies and two block adapters for the coolant feeds, but no adapters to return back to the block. Of course I could never get my answer on how the return hoses route back to the engine so.....guessing adapters...
-The aforementioned wastegate dump pipes
-The aforementioned Driverside turbo oil feed line to block adapter-

I also am questioning on the polished stainless intake pipes that came with the kit regarding whether the ends that connect to the turbo should be bead-rolled or not. The other ends use v-band clamps to make a tight seal to the turbo "W" pipe.
Attachment 39096

I also have some mystery parts that I am trying to figure out; perhaps someone can help:
Attachment 39097
-The two orange-ish round gaskets...dont know what they go to...made of silicone/rubber.
-There is a pipe plug with an o-ring. I am guessing that it goes into the hole where the cold start valve tube is removed from.
-The 45 angle adapter. I am guessing i need it possibly for the passenger side turbo oil feed to engine block adapter.
-I know what the blue one is :)
I also received 2 aluminum male weld fittings that are supposed to welded to the valve covers for an evac system. However, There are no hoses included as well as instructions on where to weld the fittings and more importantly, where to run the hoses from there. My guess is to the turbo inlet pipes. However, without baffling or some kind of way to block oil vapor...I am guessing.....

I have borrowed a fuel injector step drill bit to make my own fuel rails, will be doing this soon.

That is all for now...

No. I responded to your email from three hours ago. I didn't see your post until my inbox exploded with you being at it again. I clearly stated publicly that I would be unavailable for a good portion of this month. But I keep getting sucked back in.

I'm going to cut to the chase on this. This is a highly sophisticated installation by all means. You opted for a fraction of the required components to make this happen. Installation of this requires a serious degree of understanding fundamentals of engine design and turbo charging. These components are supplied to many in "jobber/tuner" form for those will this knowledge level with no issue. In this case I unfortunately need to say even with my attempted guidance which was largely over looked this isn't going to work. No more than three things taken from the last post alone would result in detrimental results. My suggestion is s return for a full refund with associated shipping costs both ways covered by us. Please don't take this personally but this is not going to end well, my explicit advice has been over looked and second guessed to the community at large and we are taking a public beating with your mass posting of "missing this or that" etc and questioning our components with malicious intent or not. I literally can not handle having to watch and go through this bolt by bolt process to its end what ever that may be. I made an error in judgment and thought you had a much better grasp on the principles relating to this project. I apologize for misreading this.

:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

Or perhaps the car can go to DPIJosh and just let him get on with it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by opethmike

Okay, but why? I'd like to understand they physics behind why those choices aren't good enough.

---

I just saw this and thought I would help answer. In reality the stock idle motor does not know the differance of a N/A or Boosted car. You just have to make sure that the inlet for the idle valve gets it's air from the charge pipe before the throttle body. As the engine goes into boost the pressure on both sides of the valve will be equal. The idle valves job is to simply bypass air around the throttle body to maintain an idle. Using PWM to adjust the duty cycle of the valve to open it to achieve the idle you want. Now for the DeLorean Idle valve, there is a little secret on how to wire it to make it work. You have to put a 50 watt 30ohm resistor on the ground wire that closes the valve. The center pin is 12V power the other two pins will open or close the valve when energized. Put the resistor inline with the ground wire that closes the valve. The other pin that opens the valve will be the PWM gnd signal from the megasquirt. Make sure the transistor used for the idle is a higher current one and not the small standard ones. I find a three or two wire PWM valve easiest to dial in. The response time or catching the idle as the RPM falls can be tuned and is a standard feature of megasquirt. This is especially needed when the A/C compressor is running. If you have the A/C, and electrical load properly integrated with the ECU, idle is never and issue and can be rock solid during all conditions.



Anyway, OP cool project!! Sometimes the build is the best part of all. Take your time and do the research, one step at a time.

Is this one up and running?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Delorean Industries

No. I responded to your email from three hours ago. I didn't see your post until my inbox exploded with you being at it again. I clearly stated publicly that I would be unavailable for a good portion of this month. But I keep getting sucked back in.

I'm going to cut to the chase on this. This is a highly sophisticated installation by all means. You opted for a fraction of the required components to make this happen. Installation of this requires a serious degree of understanding fundamentals of engine design and turbo charging. These components are supplied to many in "jobber/tuner" form for those will this knowledge level with no issue. In this case I unfortunately need to say even with my attempted guidance which was largely over looked this isn't going to work. No more than three things taken from the last post alone would result in detrimental results. My suggestion is s return for a full refund with associated shipping costs both ways covered by us. Please don't take this personally but this is not going to end well, my explicit advice has been over looked and second guessed to the community at large and we are taking a public beating with your mass posting of "missing this or that" etc and questioning our components with malicious intent or not. I literally can not handle having to watch and go through this bolt by bolt process to its end what ever that may be. I made an error in judgment and thought you had a much better grasp on the principles relating to this project. I apologize for misreading this.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Delorean Industries

"...do you sell a bolt-on twin turbo system?" No. Recently people have shown to be too retarded to handle it. We sell systems for install to select shops around the world or offer in house install.

---

Attachment 51893Attachment 51894
I would like to offer to anyone interested in doing this build and who would have questions on how to do it to contact me directly. I will be more than happy to help you out, provide instructions, as well as pictures and videos that I have documented of this completed build in great detail. I have made many great friends both in and out of the Delorean community that have helped me out and I will pay it forward in return. It was a great experience too good not to share.
I would also like to encourage those interested in doing this not to let anyone change your mind by talking down to you, telling you and others that you are not capable, or by attempting to talk you out of it; that is the easy way out for both that person and you.
-JQ

... still trying to figure out why you blocked me?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Josh

... still trying to figure out why you blocked me?

---

LOL I think we all are....

Josh Q. did a great job taking his time and figuring this all out. It was clearly his first time putting a turbo engine together, and his patience and persistence are beginning to pay off. The setup looks wonderful installed.

He will also have gained the knowledge to troubleshoot and repair problems with his project. Moreover, based on his firsthand knowledge, he can speak at length about the ups and downs of the installation process at car shows and club events. How many owners with a unique engine configuration can say the same?

Josh, you've earned this decal:
https://static.wixstatic.com/media/b...,q_90/file.jpg