help car won't start

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Originally Posted by Silverbullet

So... now I am lost.... I hooked up a CO2 powerd pump to fresh clean gas, and set it to 75 PSI and it pushed hard enough to return to the gas tank... I pulled an injector and pushed the plate and got a nice spray, that changed with pushing the plate... I tried to start the car.. no dice.

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This indicates the fuel was flowing but had low pressure when you pulled the CSV line, as we guessed it might be. If you confirmed the tests above, your pressure is down...could be restriction to pump, pump, restriction on way to filter, filter, restriction on way to FD, FD...
You need a gauge to make this "easy".

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Originally Posted by Silverbullet

Then I pulled a spark plug wire and put a spark plug on it and cranked, it sparked... not like as strong as I think it should, but it jumped the gap... Then I jumpered the White Yellow wire on the ballast to the + of the coil, as when I used a test light it was not as bright on the + side of the coil as it was on the White-Yellow wire on the ballast... still no go.

Soooooo anybody have a idea.....

Thanks...

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Remember (below):

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Originally Posted by Ron

If the plugs are wet or sooty from before and/or now flooded, the spark will not jump the plug gap...
Pull a couple easy ones at least and see how they look.

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Originally Posted by Silverbullet

I pulled a plug... it was black.. they are Autolite Platum... I brush cleaned it.. put it back..

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Surely the other 5 are black too...all of them are probely wet now.

Clean or preferably replace your plugs (stick one in a spare wire off of the coil and put the base on the block then crank...you will probably see a spark but not across the gap like it should...
(It's hard to clean them after a lot of abuse....)

Dumping more fuel in it isn't the answer IMHO

If you are still getting good spark at the coil (?), forget the ignition dwell and light bulbs.

For verification purpose, It would be a good idea to pull the Distributor cap and check the rotor. The rotor has a resistor in it, I've seen them fail(burn up). Also strong spark will appear as a fine blue arc. When viewed under pressure tested conditions, it will be Bright blue. Weak spark will appear orange/yellow and be fat and fuzzy.

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Originally Posted by DMC5180

For verification purpose, It would be a good idea to pull the Distributor cap and check the rotor. The rotor has a resistor in it, I've seen them fail(burn up). Also strong spark will appear as a fine blue arc. When viewed under pressure tested conditions, it will be Bright blue. Weak spark will appear orange/yellow and be fat and fuzzy.

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Spark was blue... not a real ZAP like I am used to with Chevy's...but blue none the less... I will check the rotor... bugger to get to..lol..FYI. it has Autolite APP 103 Platium.. and gapped at .o48 not the .024-28... so I ordered Bosch HR6DS... and will swap them..

Ok.... I got it running....

I bought one of the new Fuel pump/Sender units... Let me tell you it is a REALLY nice item. It fit great, was easy to install, and they even gave a plug the the old fuel sender hole. I wish all retro-fit kits were this nice. It also came with a new fuel filter, and I am betting I just changed the one that came with the car.

I also pulled the spark plugs, they were Autolite Platnum APP103 and gapped at like .050, way too big. I put in Bosch HR6-DS and gapped at .025. I put 5 gallons of gas in my empty clean tank, hit the key, and it fired right up... So at least it runs... I guess I will have to work on making it run great next.

AND>>>> Thanks to ALL the people on the forum for all the great help :thankyou:

yay, good job! :aniclap:

Congrats man! :thumbup2:

Looking forward to hearing more stories about your Delorean.

:burnout:

I'm Kinda surprised it ran on the BIG Gap plugs before. That's equivalent to running with worn out plugs with the OE coil.