That pump and fuel hose is a mess. Glad your changing it out. That hose should have a rubber cover on it to protect it. It sure sound like your mixture is to lean.
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That pump and fuel hose is a mess. Glad your changing it out. That hose should have a rubber cover on it to protect it. It sure sound like your mixture is to lean.
I forgot to mention a couple of things:
- While playing with the throttle, I heard a few "popping" noises. They seemed to come from the air deflector plate or the air mixture unit, not the exhaust. They were similar to the noises that I thought I had heard from the exhaust when I drove it to the garage. It may have just been the plate banging against the top of the mixture unit as it closed, but I'm not sure. It wasn't conclusive enough for me to know what was going on.
- I could hear a hissing noise coming from the engine near the firewall. I was unable to localize it, and it's not clear to me if it's always been there or if it's new. Since I installed the new cams and exhaust I'd sometimes hear a similar whooshing air noise while driving (I think it was when I took my foot off the gas quickly, but I can't recall at the moment), although I just thought it was a side effect of those new components. AFAIK there are no vacuum leaks, or at least there weren't when I tested a year ago while trying to track down idle problems (wound up being a bent throttle arm that was keeping the throttles slightly open during idle, and thus made it impossible to get the RPMs down; I went so far as to do a poor-mans smoke test using a cardboard box, a fog machine and a fish tank pump, which actually did work surprisingly well). I haven't checked recently, though.
-- Joe
There was some kind of rubber sheathing on the hose -- the part outside the cover, I mean -- but it basically crumbled in my hands (what was left of it, anyway).Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I'll take a look at that once I get the new fuel pump in. If I can get the car to stay running I can try to make it more rich, although at this point it might just wait until I do the EFI conversion.Quote:
It sure sound like your mixture is to lean.
Thanks!
-- Joe
You should not have to hold down on the air plate and the the throttle. Cranking the engine with the throttle partially open should automatically cause the air plate to open. at the very least once you have the engine running the air plate should be open slightly due to air flow. This is what regulates the fuel as air volume enters the engine.
The CSV does not do anything while the engine is running. I don't see how it would have any effect on it running better. Note: You did reinstall it I hope. It would be a massive air leak otherwise. Make sure the gasket is not torn either.
As for the tank cleaning, wrap an old wash cloth on stick or something and wet with acetone too wipe out what you can't reach.
Ah, sorry; what I meant was I was holding down the air plate a bit while cranking the engine. Once it started, I had to switch between holding the air plate to pulling on the throttle arm. If I released the air plate, the car would stall (except for that last time, after I'd revved the engine). While I had the throttle open I could use the timing light to check the mechanical advance.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
That's interesting; my attempts to start the car from the cabin while slightly pushing down the gas pedal failed when I tried it a few days ago. I did know that opening the throttles causes the air plate to move down and actuate the fuel distributor, but I didn't know that you should be able to start the car with the throttle slightly open. I wasn't sure if the idle switch not being depressed would interfere with starting.Quote:
Cranking the engine with the throttle partially open should automatically cause the air plate to open. at the very least once you have the engine running the air plate should be open slightly due to air flow. This is what regulates the fuel as air volume enters the engine.
That should have occurred to me, what with it being called the "cold start valve". Not sure why I thought it had to do with the idle system; probably just because of the idle speed motor being near it.Quote:
The CSV does not do anything while the engine is running. I don't see how it would have any effect on it running better.
:) I did, mostly to ensure that the fuel line was hooked up, but I also screwed it down into its pipe to avoid any leaks. The gasket looked like it was OK.Quote:
Note: you did reinstall it I hope, It would be a massive air leak otherwise. Make sure the gasket is not torn either.
As for the tank cleaning, wrap an old wash cloth on stick or something and wet with acetone too wipe out what you can't reach.[/QUOTE]
Thanks!Quote:
Cool; I'll hunt down a suitable stick for next weekend.
-- Joe
:dunno: Perplexing.
Still too many variables in play. If we could rule out the fuel injectors.........can you borrow some?
This has me wondering about valve timing..Quote:
I heard a few "popping" noises. They seemed to come from the air deflector plate or the air mixture unit, not the exhaust.
Clue?Quote:
Since I installed the new cams and exhaust I'd sometimes hear a similar whooshing air noise while driving
I thought about that too, but I don't know any other DeLorean owners in the area. I think my only real option is to buy a new set.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spittybug
We (my friend who knew what he was doing and I) were pretty careful when we set up the timing chains last year, although that doesn't necessarily mean we did it correctly. But the car did seem to run fine until a few weeks ago, and I'd never heard that popping sound prior to this. I'm not sure how the timing would change on its own; the chain would have to slip a tooth or something, right?Quote:
(re: popping) This has me wondering about valve timing..
I don't suppose there's an easy way to test the valve timing without removing the timing cover or valve covers, is there? Although if I'm doing EFI, the driver's side valve cover will be easier to get to without all that K-Jet stuff on it.
I'm not sure. I noticed an occasional wooshing noise from the engine bay while driving since I put the new cams/exhaust in a year ago, but that's not something you can narrow down from the cabin.Quote:
(re: wooshing sound) Clue?
But this constant sound from the center-rear ("rear" being more towards the front of the car) of the engine bay, I'm not sure. I didn't notice it before, but maybe that's just because I have the air box off now (first time I removed it since doing the top-of-the-engine rebuild). It may have just been the air being sucked past the slightly-opened air deflector plate. Of course, making any change to how open the plate is affects how the car is running, which may be mask the source of the sound elsewhere. I have an automotive stethoscope thing that I've never used; I don't know if it would help tracking down this problem in free air. I guess it wouldn't hurt to try, once I put the new fuel pump in and can try starting it up again. I could play with the mixture a bit too and see if that does anything.
-- Joe