BTTF Time Machine Build Questions - Ask Me Anything

Thanks guys, I'm happy to answer your questions and share some of the random stuff I've learned over the years. Most of what I know is from other people sharing in our builder's group so I've got to give credit to Joe and the rest of the team for all the hard work they have done. Years of research were involved figuring a lot of this stuff out before I was even a part of the group. As a team we were able to pool our respective skills and figure out details that most people would have found trivial at the time. That decade or so of hard work prior to the restoration made all the difference when we had the opportunity to restore the A car.

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Originally Posted by Mark D

Thanks guys, I'm happy to answer your questions and share some of the random stuff I've learned over the years. Most of what I know is from other people sharing in our builder's group so I've got to give credit to Joe and the rest of the team for all the hard work they have done. Years of research were involved figuring a lot of this stuff out before I was even a part of the group. As a team we were able to pool our respective skills and figure out details that most people would have found trivial at the time. That decade or so of hard work prior to the restoration made all the difference when we had the opportunity to restore the A car.

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That's a generous and commendable mentality Mark, thank you. There is no obligation of course from your side to share such valuable hard work, knowledge and experience; which is what makes it even more respectable that you decide to help us with stuff that we would probably find very difficult to find out (if at all) for ourselves. There is only so much information that can be gathered from numerous reference images etc (as you know).

I just wanted to express my appreciation...

"You can't keep a good scientist down!" nor can you stop Joe from doing what Joe does best. Check out the latest project, building the Eaglemoss DeLorean Time Machine on the "No Concept of Time" youtube channel and facebook page.

Joe and the TMR crew, BTTF cast/crew, and BTTF fans will collaborating to create 130 episodes to build the complete Eaglemoss 1:8 scale time machine replica. Each episode will also feature never before shared information about the restoration and info about the parts included in the Eaglemoss release.

Episode 001 features the DeLorean rear fascia, RH tail light, license plate bezel and OUTATIME license plate:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt_P97p7Drk

https://youtu.be/vt_P97p7Drk

https://www.facebook.com/NoConceptOfTime/

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...afacc9ba8e.jpg

Mine so far.

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Originally Posted by minispeedstar

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...afacc9ba8e.jpg

Mine so far.

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So this still isn't available in the US yet? I'm ready to get started! :)

Hey Mark....a few more parts questions. I have a cast of the black box that the wires are coming out of but I think I would rather build this (as well as the other one by the flux capacitor...these grey fittings are also in other places on the car.) Can you give part numbers and/or dimensions of these? Also, what info can you provide about the parts for HIGH VOLTAGE box. I already have the correct can from Zero.

Attachment 50520

Thanks again!

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Originally Posted by smcguiga

Hey Mark....a few more parts questions. I have a cast of the black box that the wires are coming out of but I think I would rather build this (as well as the other one by the flux capacitor...these grey fittings are also in other places on the car.) Can you give part numbers and/or dimensions of these? Also, what info can you provide about the parts for HIGH VOLTAGE box. I already have the correct can from Zero.

Attachment 50520

Thanks again!

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Hey sorry for taking so long to respond, I've been out of town.

The black boxes for the watertight fittings are also zero cans, just cut and modified to make the sides of the can into flanges. The watertight fittings are some obscure brand that you might still be able to find surplus somewhere. I'll have to check and see if I've got part numbers, but I'm pretty sure I've got the correct sizes. You should be able to find other companies that make them in the same size, although the exact dimensions and rounded profile of the ends won't be exact. I think a few accurate ones have been found in the past and you could find someone who sells just castings of the watertight fittings and no the whole assembly.

The high voltage box is a zero can as you already mentioned. The counter is made by Contraves and you can still buy them from the company that makes them if you call and order, but the LED 7 segment displays are no longer accurate and would need to be swapped out. The font on the counter wheel has also changed if you care about that level of detail. To order you should just be able to call and ask for the "Back to the future" counter wheel and there are people there that know what one it is. Otherwise I should have the PN somewhere that I can post.

The yellow indicators are made by CompuLite. I don't think they make the exact ones anymore (I will look up the PN), but I think a few surplus shops in the LA area still have the right ones in white and can by dyed yellow. The number labels were an after the fact addition and are not part of the design of the indicator itself. Another option is if you find them with white buttons is to disassemble make a mold of just the button, cast in yellow and reassemble.

The surround that goes around the three buttons is a small piece of 1/8" thick 6061 aluminum sheet.

The cannon connector on top is covered in one of my previous posts.

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Originally Posted by Mark D

I should be able to post some basic dimensions of the engine cover, I just haven't been on my other computer lately to take a look.

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Hi Mark,

I am sorry to have to keep asking, but just in case you forgot my earlier question regarding the engine cover dimensions...

Thanks as always.

Question: what kind or model of keypad was used for the TDC input?

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Originally Posted by Timebender

Question: what kind or model of keypad was used for the TDC input?

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I touched on this in an earlier post here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11...l=1#post211086

The full keypad assemblies were made by TRW and were most likely used for entry / security systems. When the company went under all of the existing surplus went to Apex in Sun Valley, CA. I don't know of any other place that anyone has ever found an accurate keypad.

TRW used off the shelf components to build the keypads. The green housing was unique as was the circuit board that everything was connected to, but the keypad itself was made by GTE and the indicator lights were a purchased sub component. The indicators can be cast from an original, or you can find them on ebay and other electronics surplus sites. They are not always in stock and sometimes have a large minimum buy quantity. They are made by Leecraft and are the series 32/35 indicators:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...5&d=1491882596


The best source for the green housing at this point is probably a casting. The originals are very brittle and tend to crack when being trimmed down slightly to fit as done on the screen used cars. You'll also need a casting for the white insert that covers the face of the keypad. The rest can be built up using more common parts.

Apex listed a few full keypad assemblies a while back on ebay but they were mostly damaged units. I think at this point they may have completely liquidated what was left.

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Originally Posted by "What The Flux?"

Hi Mark,

I am sorry to have to keep asking, but just in case you forgot my earlier question regarding the engine cover dimensions...

Thanks as always.

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Hey no problem, I didn't forget. Just haven't had a chance to get my CAD machine up and running lately.

Thanks Mark for the info. So, being that the keypads are basically no longer available, I wonder what guys like Bruce and Bob are using for their builds?

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Originally Posted by Mark D

I touched on this in an earlier post here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11...l=1#post211086

The full keypad assemblies were made by TRW and were most likely used for entry / security systems. When the company went under all of the existing surplus went to Apex in Sun Valley, CA. I don't know of any other place that anyone has ever found an accurate keypad.

TRW used off the shelf components to build the keypads. The green housing was unique as was the circuit board that everything was connected to, but the keypad itself was made by GTE and the indicator lights were a purchased sub component. The indicators can be cast from an original, or you can find them on ebay and other electronics surplus sites. They are not always in stock and sometimes have a large minimum buy quantity. They are made by Leecraft and are the series 32/35 indicators:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...5&d=1491882596


The best source for the green housing at this point is probably a casting. The originals are very brittle and tend to crack when being trimmed down slightly to fit as done on the screen used cars. You'll also need a casting for the white insert that covers the face of the keypad. The rest can be built up using more common parts.

Apex listed a few full keypad assemblies a while back on ebay but they were mostly damaged units. I think at this point they may have completely liquidated what was left.

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Originally Posted by Timebender

Thanks Mark for the info. So, being that the keypads are basically no longer available, I wonder what guys like Bruce and Bob are using for their builds?

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Probably kit of parts... Casting of the case, number keypad from an old phone that looks similar, and the lights as indicated int he post above.
It wouldn't be that difficult and now with 3D printing being pretty accessible you could probably just print a case.

Cheers
Steve

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Originally Posted by mluder

Probably kit of parts... Casting of the case, number keypad from an old phone that looks similar, and the lights as indicated int he post above.
It wouldn't be that difficult and now with 3D printing being pretty accessible you could probably just print a case.

Cheers
Steve

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The case is easy, and the indicator lights as well. I do have two keypads now - both gray, but I wonder if I can bleach them to white?

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Originally Posted by mluder

This is what I bought on advice from my guru, Gary...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-Push-...item3d32bebbc3

You can just print on a regular piece of printer paper the "EMPTY" and install a flashing LED bulb assembly. It will shine through.

I'm not sure about the metal on the sides. It's just perforated stainless steel. Might even be (probably is) the same stuff used for the flux bands. That said I don't know what the hole size or spacing is supposed to be. I'm sure someone can provide.

Cheers
Steve

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So I got that button off eBay, drilled a hole in my gauge for it, put it in, only to discover it's too tall and the cover wouldn't back on. So I dremeled the sides of the button and pushed it into its down position, and it kinda fits, but the faceplate still doesn't sit down all the way.

I'm going to guess that's normal?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bd9ed87336.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bf70c21016.jpg

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Originally Posted by Timebender

So I got that button off eBay, drilled a hole in my gauge for it, put it in, only to discover it's too tall and the cover wouldn't back on. So I dremeled the sides of the button and pushed it into its down position, and it kinda fits, but the faceplate still doesn't sit down all the way.

I'm going to guess that's normal?

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Your roentgens meter is slightly different than the screen used meter. It looks like the face of the meter is closer to the lens than on the screen used type. That ebay button is not correct either and may be taller than the correct alcoswitch indicator. For a screen accurate red rectangular indicator you need to order one of each of these:

Lens:
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-...tml?p=10534864

Housing:
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-...tml?p=10534687

Bulb:
https://www.onlinecomponents.com/te-...tml?p=10534814
(T1 3/4 Flange base, can also use red LED bulb with flange base instead)

You should be able to completely reassemble the meter without the indicator hitting the glass.

Thanks again Mark. The meter was the same as one that Bruce sent me as well- so I figured it was as close as it could get. I'll order those other bits and see if it gives a better fit.

I just took my Roentgens meter apart to get ready to put the light in it just like Timebender did. I decide to go ahead and scan the plate in case anyone needs it. :)

Attachment 50864

--Steven

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Originally Posted by smcguiga

I just took my Roentgens meter apart to get ready to put the light in it just like Timebender did. I decide to go ahead and scan the plate in case anyone needs it. :)

Attachment 50864

--Steven

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Really cool image and very useful. Thank you very much!

Speaking of labels - I read the font for the TDC black labels is Microgramma D extended bold - best I could guess is 14 point. What's the font and size for the red labels?

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Originally Posted by Timebender

So I got that button off eBay, drilled a hole in my gauge for it, put it in, only to discover it's too tall and the cover wouldn't back on. So I dremeled the sides of the button and pushed it into its down position, and it kinda fits, but the faceplate still doesn't sit down all the way.

I'm going to guess that's normal?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bd9ed87336.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bf70c21016.jpg

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For those gauges just fit the lens with an LED behind it, there's less space than the screen accurate version gauge.

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Originally Posted by minispeedstar

For those gauges just fit the lens with an LED behind it, there's less space than the screen accurate version gauge.

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Makes sense

So as to an earlier question - what did they use to make the labels for the TCD as well as the little clear "empty" label?

For now I've printed everything but the empty label onto photo paper and plan on picking up a sticker maker at Hobby Lobby. I did the graphics in Illustrator using the Microgramma Bold extended font.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...9&d=1492455844

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Originally Posted by Timebender

So as to an earlier question - what did they use to make the labels for the TCD as well as the little clear "empty" label?

For now I've printed everything but the empty label onto photo paper and plan on picking up a sticker maker at Hobby Lobby. I did the graphics in Illustrator using the Microgramma Bold extended font.

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The actual machine is a Kroy Model 80 label printer. It's 80's tech that's long since become obsolete so finding a working machine and the special printing tape in the right colors is an expensive (and time consuming) way to go. You also have to find the correct font printing wheel. A much better option is to print on vinyl and cut to size.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...0&d=1492457052

I think only a couple of the correct font wheels have ever been found, and the white-on-black and white-on-red tape is even harder to find.

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Originally Posted by Mark D

The actual machine is a Kroy Model 80 label printer. It's 80's tech that's long since become obsolete so finding a working machine and the special printing tape in the right colors is an expensive (and time consuming) way to go. You also have to find the correct font printing wheel. A much better option is to print on vinyl and cut to size.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...0&d=1492457052

I think only a couple of the correct font wheels have ever been found, and the white-on-black and white-on-red tape is even harder to find.

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I actually remember having one of those in a print shop I worked at back in the late 80's. Good memories.

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Originally Posted by Timebender

I actually remember having one of those in a print shop I worked at back in the late 80's. Good memories.

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From what I remember when we were doing some hard searching a few years ago the machines were pretty common back in the 70's and 80's so they're not too hard to get these days. They just run about 50 bucks or so. To find the right font wheel can be $5 or $500 depending on what kind of crack the seller is smoking.

The real kicker though is finding the right printing tape. I don't know if anyone has ever found the correct stuff that was not totally degraded. Apparently there is lots of black on white tape and black on clear tape out there but nobody seemed to hoard the more obscure colors needed TCD.

Difficulty of finding parts aside, just the $50 cost of the printer is hard to justify against a couple bucks to print a vinyl sheet.

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Originally Posted by Mark D

From what I remember when we were doing some hard searching a few years ago the machines were pretty common back in the 70's and 80's so they're not too hard to get these days. They just run about 50 bucks or so. To find the right font wheel can be $5 or $500 depending on what kind of crack the seller is smoking.

The real kicker though is finding the right printing tape. I don't know if anyone has ever found the correct stuff that was not totally degraded. Apparently there is lots of black on white tape and black on clear tape out there but nobody seemed to hoard the more obscure colors needed TCD.

Difficulty of finding parts aside, just the $50 cost of the printer is hard to justify against a couple bucks to print a vinyl sheet.

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Agreed

I always thought they used a Dynamo label maker or is that just what most folks use for close enough replication?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by DMC5180

I always thought they used a Dynamo label maker or is that just what most folks use for close enough replication?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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For the labels on the flux capacitor and round gauges, those use the embossing labeler. The rest are the flat labels on both the plutonium chamber meter, and the TCD labels are all flat as well.

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Originally Posted by Timebender

For the labels on the flux capacitor and round gauges, those use the embossing labeler. The rest are the flat labels on both the plutonium chamber meter, and the TCD labels are all flat as well.

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IIRC, the embossing labeler in this case wasn't a Dymo, but a Rotex. I picked up a Rotex 880 on eBay a couple years ago. The font seems to be closer to what you see on screen than what the Dymo has. (Apologies if this was covered earlier in the thread)

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Originally Posted by burch

IIRC, the embossing labeler in this case wasn't a Dymo, but a Rotex. I picked up a Rotex 880 on eBay a couple years ago. The font seems to be closer to what you see on screen than what the Dymo has. (Apologies if this was covered earlier in the thread)

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Can you find tape for these still or do the modern equivalents work?

Cheers
Steve

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Originally Posted by burch

IIRC, the embossing labeler in this case wasn't a Dymo, but a Rotex. I picked up a Rotex 880 on eBay a couple years ago. The font seems to be closer to what you see on screen than what the Dymo has. (Apologies if this was covered earlier in the thread)

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That makes sense, as the kerning is much closer on the movie version, whereas the dyno labeler leaves a lot more space between the letters.

I finally gave up on worrying about that little detail, as we're the only ones who are going to notice (and of course it bugs me, but who cares what I think?), and the general public will freak out about cool it looks.

I mean, look at the car by RentDeLorean- have you seen his homemade Mr. Fusion? We know it's nowhere near being a Krups, but his clients and general onlookers don't give a hoot.

Labels from dymo on round gaugehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...16e17697a3.jpg

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Originally Posted by mluder

Can you find tape for these still or do the modern equivalents work?

Cheers
Steve

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The modern equivalents work, however I have found that it is tough to get the 1/2" tape size locally anymore. You can get the 3/8" just about anywhere, but 1/2 is a bit tougher. I ended up buying some old Dymo tape through http://www.dymotapestore.com/. The size is right and the quality is good. The problem is that with this older tape, the adhesive isn't always the greatest anymore. A little double-sided tape on the back corrects that though :)

Here's what it looks like on my Flux: Attachment 50967

My flux build isn't 100% screen accurate, but more than close enough for my needs.

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Originally Posted by burch

The modern equivalents work, however I have found that it is tough to get the 1/2" tape size locally anymore. You can get the 3/8" just about anywhere, but 1/2 is a bit tougher. I ended up buying some old Dymo tape through http://www.dymotapestore.com/. The size is right and the quality is good. The problem is that with this older tape, the adhesive isn't always the greatest anymore. A little double-sided tape on the back corrects that though :)

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I never realized there were two sizes on the car... (Or that 2 sizes even existed) I just assumed they were all one sized (3/8").
Thanks for the info.

Cheers
Steve

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Originally Posted by mluder

I never realized there were two sizes on the car... (Or that 2 sizes even existed) I just assumed they were all one sized (3/8").
Thanks for the info.

Cheers
Steve

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So, based off my measurements on screencaps, I believe there are two sizes. Hopefully someone can either confirm, or shoot me down quickly :)

I managed to get my gauges done- they're non- functional and light up using battery powered miniature Christmas lights. Lots of thanks to Mark, mluder, and anyone else who shared some really great info!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9e0ee3726c.jpg

Just confirming that the ROTEX label maker is what was used, and there are two sizes of labels, 1/2" and 3/8. In the the photos above of Burch's flux he's got the upper two labels correctly overlapping by a slight bit.

Is the Roentgen gauge made by Phaostron ? If not who makes it...where can I find one and what is the part #
Also what are the dimensions of said gauge....
Thanks in advance

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Originally Posted by BadCompany

Is the Roentgen gauge made by Phaostron ? If not who makes it...where can I find one and what is the part #
Also what are the dimensions of said gauge....
Thanks in advance

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The Roentgen gauge is made by Simpson, PN 958516. The only confirmed piece of equipment that they were used on is Radiac CP-95. I don't have overall dimensions handy, but I can measure the one I've got. Your best bet at finding one is ebay, NSN searches for the radiac, or Fair Radio (fairradio.com)

I got mine through Fair Radio 6 or 7 years ago and if you call and ask they have them in stock from time to time. Expect to pay between $100-$200 though for an accurate one with the correct housing and meter face font.