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I just checked the thickness of my rotors to see if they were turnable. They are at the minimum (11.7) mm now. So, I'm going to install new rotors instead. I had a set on hand that I bought a few years back in anticipation of needing them eventually.
I'll betchya $1000 that your water problem is actually related to an impossible-to-seal leak near the windshield drain. It's related to some plastic infill panels glued to the body tub at the HVAC box. The water then soaks through the carpet then into the battery compartment. You don't want to completely seal off the battery compartment as the battery can outgass hydrogen and some other nasty gasses.
I had this particular leak on my car for two years before I could seal it. HOWEVER... Since you will soon be removing your whole HVAC box for your evaporator replacement, this will provide you with just the possibility of a good fix. Hose down your windshield once it's removed and you'll see where it's coming in.
I think you misread what I typed earlier -- the water is coming in BEHIND the seat. It first shows up underneath the battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
Anyway, I am glad I am not the only one who buys parts because I will need them later... I've got a box of parts somewhere including an evaporator ready to install...
It just occurred to me that I actually do NOT have all of the tools required to change out that seal on the transmission -- I will need something to punch out that little roll pin. Suggestions? Also, can I re-use the roll pin or is it a part which needs to be replaced with a fresh one?
Maybe the area around the bulkhead connector compartment, backlight, crack in pontoon???Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Water will follow the outer door seal then sneak inside the wall and collect under the battery if it is too far inboard or the adhesive is bad....check the two spots below in particular:
Attachment 9835
I have never seen water in those areas.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
For now I will consider this a process of elimination. I have sealed up those holes with aluminum duct tape and will check the area regularly.
I'd post this to the "What have you done to your DeLorean today?" thread, but I lost track of it. I would've updated this last night, but the Internet was out for some reason.
Yesterday's work:
- removed right-hand driver-side kneepad
- removed glove box (what's left of it)
- replaced blower motor switch
- re-installed radio/HVAC bracket
- re-installed console
- re-installed wood panel behind passenger seat, and connecting piece between two panels
- re-installed wood panels on rear parcel shelf
- re-installed rear interior wall
- re-installed carpet on parcel shelf
- re-installed battery
- fired up the engine and let it idle, made sure radiator fans come on and off like they should
- took video of the engine running to prove alternator linkage does not interfere with fan blades
- washed all stainless panels and glass
- re-installed dash mat
- moved the car to a parking space right next to my apartment's living-room window
- put a cover on the car for the first time since I bought it in 2007
The battery was fresh, so the first time I turned the key, it fired right up after the fuel bowl filled. However, after I had cleaned the stainless and glass and was ready to drive it, the starter would not engage via the key, even though I made doubly sure I was in Park (I also tried Neutral), so I had to leave the key on and start the engine from the engine compartment. This is a problem I have had off and on for at least a year, and I do not know what causes it. Also, the engine did not idle too badly the first time I had the engine running yesterday, but when I was moving it to the other parking spot, it sounded pathetic. When I touched the gas pedal to move into the space faster, VROOM the engine went way up and ran smoother than idle, which is odd. This behavior would seem to indicate that the idle mixture is too rich causing the engine to stumble, but the fact that it idles high (above 900 RPM) without any pressure on the throttle plates would seem to indicate a vacuum leak, which would result in a lean mixture. Also, I noticed what seemed to be a lack of grip when I turned the steering wheel. I am guessing there was sand under the wheels, but I will raise the front end and have a look at it anyway just to be sure, before I put the car back on the road.
Note: I still have not changed out the output flange oil seal, but I wanted to move the car anyway, which is why I put everything back together.
Confirm your Neutral/park switch and downstream harness connections. Place gear selector in either position. Pull the Start Inhibit relay (Next to RED Resistor cube) then (Continuity test) Terminal (30) (center rear) to ground. If you have continuity, try swapping in different relay and see what happens. If No continuity, check Red bulkhead connection. Back probe W/Y wire coming from the Red Bulkhead connector and a Black (Ground) wire in the same plug. (On a manual trans car the W/Y simply jumpers to ground). If you get an OPEN it's either the switch or an adjustment. If you get continuity, then place the Ground side probe to the Engine, This will confirm the ground to frame. Other remote possibilities ( flakey ignition switch) or connections to the inhibit relay socket.
Wow, nice troubleshooting procedure, Dennis! Thanks! I will get to that this weekend if I can. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
In other news, I've often heard that the back plate for the Sanden SD508 (and SD5H14 for R-134) compressors was unavailable. Well, I found something a while ago which looks awfully familiar... correct me if I'm wrong, somebody, but isn't this it?
Certainly looks like it!Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Sounds like the choke is set wrong to me... Are you setting it with the throttle held ~half open and the engine DEAD cold (as in has sat ALL night)?Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar