What have you done to your DeLorean today?

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Originally Posted by SS Spoiler

Finished brake job and seat covers so we went on a long road test run. Noted blue smoke for first five miles, and erratic idle, hunting.
Did a compression test, these are the numbers......35, 75, 130,140, 130, and 120. That explains my bad blow by issues. Sounds like an overhaul
in the future. Still coming to Ohio probably on a trailer! Question...is it bad to drive with low compression? What can happen? Ideas?

Paul Cerny #2691
Kalispell, MT

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Do a leakdown test to figure out if it's bad valves or broken pistons. Although the blow-by problem probably gives you the answer. I presume you're seeing oil on the "clean" side of the air filter and in the intake (air flap)?

Oil will get dirty in a hurry. You'll foul the O2 sensor and plugs, but compared to the real problem neither is a big deal.

Disconnect the hose that runs from the oil filler cap to the air box and route it under the car (longer hose), this will keep you from dumping oil back into the intake and plugging the air filter. With the engine running you'll probably see a lot of smoke from that hose.

Went for a 100+ km drive this afternoon and the car drove like a champ. No issues and it was one of the more fun drives I have had in recent memory. That says as much about the car finally being in good shape as it does about the driver. Giddyup. :)

Dave, already put a by-pass hose off the oil fill tube. Is it possible extra gas could get by the rings and sit on the oil in the pan until it explodes?
Had that happen on a 58 Ford. Yeah I had to change oil soaked air filter. Put a crate motor from Don Steger at 79,000 miles. Car now has 153,000
on it. Plan to go for forged pistons, new cylinders. Will a single turbo break ring lands? or rings? [compression was 175psi when oil was squirted in plug hole].............bummer

Flushed my cooling system ala Nightflyer Josh and replaced 5 of the coolant pipe coupler hoses.

Worked on my louvre repair; a round of sanding and another coat of polyester resin.

Applied some Fluid Film to the steel fuel filter line & fitting, as well as a few other random steel fittings "under there."

Used Gunk to begin degreasing the layers of gunk off the transfer case.

Met the transport driver and took delivery of 4307.

Drove it straight to work. 5PM could not come sooner.

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Originally Posted by ifelder

Met the transport driver and took delivery of 4307.

Drove it straight to work. 5PM could not come sooner.

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What, no pics?!

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Originally Posted by eagle-co94

What, no pics?!

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Attachment 26826

Here's right before she was loaded on the transport. Grey, 5 spd, Oct 81.

Has a bit of an idle hunt that I'm going to try and sort out tonight. Try and find a vacuum leak, check the dwell, then the idle motor.

I'm doing a body off restoration, and its just hit the turning point of putting it back together :D yey Vin 6507 :D

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Originally Posted by ifelder

Attachment 26826

Here's right before she was loaded on the transport. Grey, 5 spd, Oct 81.

Has a bit of an idle hunt that I'm going to try and sort out tonight. Try and find a vacuum leak, check the dwell, then the idle motor.

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How come the door lights are off?

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Originally Posted by Silverbullet

How come the door lights are off?

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I pulled the courtesy light fuse.
Was concerned that the driver wouldn't close the door all the way and it'd arrive with a dead battery.

Last night I installed Tomcio's LED kit and the DMOCO shift gate & brushed knob.

Day 2 changing the weather stripping at the seam between the door and t-panel. I had no idea it was going to be such a pain in the butt. Then I remembered - of course it is.

I had to take out the t-panel to get more clearance from the torsion bar. Also had to loosen the hinges because they pinned the stripping between them and the stainless. There was so much weather stripping goop from dunmurry. I cut away some major blobs.

Drilled out the old rivets, used a dremel to get the remnants out of the way.

A truly terrible job. Goin on day 3.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/30/uvy7ebaq.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/30/4adudahy.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/30/gesy7eze.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/30/enuhy2az.jpg

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Originally Posted by ifelder

I pulled the courtesy light fuse.
Was concerned that the driver wouldn't close the door all the way and it'd arrive with a dead battery.

Last night I installed Tomcio's LED kit and the DMOCO shift gate & brushed knob.

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I love the look of the shift gate, but is the shift lever supposed to be neutral between the 1-2 and 3-4 slots rather than centered between 3-4?

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Originally Posted by pezzonovante88

I love the look of the shift gate, but is the shift lever supposed to be neutral between the 1-2 and 3-4 slots rather than centered between 3-4?

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Probably...
I had read enough horror stories of the shift gate not lining up and having to adjust the shift linkage control rod. I'm just happy I can get into all the gears without any adjustment.
There is a bit of rubbing, and i'm there's a bit of a trick to get it into reverse. But all the other drive gears are pretty easy to switch between while driving.

Pulled the drivers side LCA out today. It was bent up pretty bad. Somebody hit something hard.

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Originally Posted by sdg3205

Day 2 changing the weather stripping at the seam between the door and t-panel. I had no idea it was going to be such a pain in the butt. Then I remembered - of course it is.

I had to take out the t-panel to get more clearance from the torsion bar. Also had to loosen the hinges because they pinned the stripping between them and the stainless. There was so much weather stripping goop from dunmurry. I cut away some major blobs.

Drilled out the old rivets, used a dremel to get the remnants out of the way.

A truly terrible job. Goin on day 3.

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I knew I know this garage and 3-seater sofa. You did this pain in the backside job? Good for you! I might have to do it one day as well according to Toby, so now I know where to go to get help. :wrenchin:

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Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster

Pulled the drivers side LCA out today. It was bent up pretty bad. Somebody hit something hard.

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I have the same bent seams. Toby (DMC NW) told me about it. These bents happen when a towing car is not using the towing mounts but just hooks into the LCAs. :mad2:
He recommended to straighten them with vice grips and then treat the rust as he has seen some Deloreans come into the garage with cracks starting right there. I will have to do this soon to my LCAs.

Took the D out today for a road test after installing new LCAs. The steering wheel does not vibrate anymore. So I guess something was bad on the old LCA's, ball joints or bushings.

Now I need to take it to get new tires.

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Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster

Took the D out today for a road test after installing new LCAs. The steering wheel does not vibrate anymore. So I guess something was bad on the old LCA's, ball joints or bushings.

Now I need to take it to get new tires.

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Hey Dave,

You probably mentioned this in another thread, but what LCAs did you go with as replacements? (I'll read the thread on it if you point me in the right direction).

Your comment about the steering wheel not vibrating caught my attention in addition to mentioning the ones you took out were bent in a way that says someone hit something with them. I get a bit of a vibration at speeds over 100 km/hr and I don't think it is a loose steering wheel column or bad bushing on the column. It's not outrageous, but one of my LCAs looks like it got whacked at some point enough to take it out of it's intended shape to some degree.

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

Hey Dave,

You probably mentioned this in another thread, but what LCAs did you go with as replacements? (I'll read the thread on it if you point me in the right direction).

Your comment about the steering wheel not vibrating caught my attention in addition to mentioning the ones you took out were bent in a way that says someone hit something with them. I get a bit of a vibration at speeds over 100 km/hr and I don't think it is a loose steering wheel column or bad bushing on the column. It's not outrageous, but one of my LCAs looks like it got whacked at some point enough to take it out of it's intended shape to some degree.

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http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?24...ngs#post141017

I went with the Perce stainless LCAs which are no longer available. They were the ones making the SS frame also. New ball joints, EU lower, NOS upper. Poly bushings EU.

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Originally Posted by sdg3205

Day 2 changing the weather stripping at the seam between the door and t-panel. I had no idea it was going to be such a pain in the butt. Then I remembered - of course it is.

I had to take out the t-panel to get more clearance from the torsion bar. Also had to loosen the hinges because they pinned the stripping between them and the stainless. There was so much weather stripping goop from dunmurry. I cut away some major blobs.

Drilled out the old rivets, used a dremel to get the remnants out of the way.

A truly terrible job. Goin on day 3.

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Dave, I'm going to have to do this shortly. Any chance you could tell me what size rivets you're using?
Also any good advice for the job itself? :smile:

So here's what happened today... Free Comic Book day at my local store.


http://i.imgur.com/N7e9B1v.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/okK1hhD.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/AWAIvec.jpg

I cleaned the car and replaced the gear shift boot.
Bought it from Redline Accessories for $46.05

--Maor
VIN 15190, Danville, CA

Looking good!

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Originally Posted by mburshtain

I cleaned the car and replaced the gear shift boot.
Bought it from Redline Accessories for $46.05

--Maor
VIN 15190, Danville, CA

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Looks like a nice one.

Drove them.

Attempted to put in rear speaker but got stuck because of the dang fir tree near the top of the panel. Any suggestions? Also found weatherstrip for the doors from an old Chrysler minivan at the pick n pull. 2 bucks!

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

Doesn't the old frame still need to be in good shape?

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

I am in the middle of refurbishing my front suspension. I have it completely disassembled to install new ball joints, wheel bearings, struts, springs, etc. My control arms were in good shape and I thought I'd just clean them off , wire wheel the rust spots, paint and reinstall. I soaked them overnight in a 5 gallon bucket of water with some of that "Purple Power" cleaner. The next day they were clean but the cleaner made the factory paint brittle and it flaked off in places. So I spent today glass blasting them. I figured I'd at least be able to inspect them for any damage. I'm not using the Purple cleaner on any more parts. They will get primed and painted.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ps0f64cb3b.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ps10ceb0a7.jpg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j2...ps1eb54a12.jpg

Replaced battery with optima red top.

Spent several days in shop making 10 clear plastic covers for the wiring harness in the upper corner of the engine bay.
Someone on the DMC.com days suggested that all the pretty colored harness plugs were too nice to hide behind a black cover.
I thought that was a good idea so I made a prototype years ago, and got good comments. I'll have 10 available at DCS Ohio
for fifty bucks each. [ Whoever posted the original idea gets one for fifty percent off]
Also making some trunk props for a positive hold open stop, no more trunk lid slamming on windy days. Five bucks each,
black of bright orange.
Sorry, still don't have ability to post pictures, just look for the car with the stainless steel spoiler and goofy ground "defects".


[ Mods, if this is the wrong site to post stuff for sale feel free to move to the proper spot]

Installed Hervey's battery ground cables per the instructions here. I'm planning to install an amp eventually and wanted to make sure I have a solid ground first. Even though my OEM ground cable was in perfect condition, with this new cable the dash voltmeter now reads about 1 volt higher at idle. Not bad!

I washed, waxed, and detailed the other 4 cars that I own and my mother in law's jeep (for mothers day) but the DeLorean only got a quick wipe down with a california duster.

i lowered my car ( DMCMW kit ) , changed bushing and front brakes..and replaced fuel line

Attachment 26982

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Originally Posted by krustydmc

i lowered my car ( DMCMW kit ) , changed bushing and front brakes..and replaced fuel line

Attachment 26982

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Sweet! I hope to get this done within the next few weeks at DMC NW.

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Originally Posted by vps3922

Sweet! I hope to get this done within the next few weeks at DMC NW.

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Do you have a date to go down, Volker? If I'm not working I'd be happy to help you out.

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Originally Posted by sdg3205

Do you have a date to go down, Volker? If I'm not working I'd be happy to help you out.

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No, none yet. :bawling:
I am waiting patiently.

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Originally Posted by krustydmc

i lowered my car ( DMCMW kit ) , changed bushing and front brakes..and replaced fuel line

Attachment 26982

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Eibach springs?

-Removed the binnacle & gauge cluster to check/replace battery light bulb.

-Replaced the driver's side tailight.

-Dis-assembled the steering column, preparing to replace the bushing tomorrow.

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Originally Posted by Domi

Eibach springs?

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yes !

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Originally Posted by Domi

Eibach springs?

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Since we now see that those were indeed DMCMW Eibachs you may be interested in knowing that the Eibach front-rear spring setuplooks like this in side view before and after:

Attachment 27012 Attachment 27013

In this case the new (non-Eibach) rear shocks have adjustable spring perches with that adjustment set so as to create same ride height of frame crossmember front-rear.