Retuned my idle today while sitting in some traffic.
I fully introduced the idle correction timing curve and tweaked the AC idle up settings to 400ms delay and 45 steps. Now it doesn't swing so wildly.
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Retuned my idle today while sitting in some traffic.
I fully introduced the idle correction timing curve and tweaked the AC idle up settings to 400ms delay and 45 steps. Now it doesn't swing so wildly.
Fixed my sticking driver's door!!
I've had an issue for the last 6 months where my driver's door would stick and not let me open the door. Since I've been doing the EV conversion during this time it wasn't really an issue I needed to fix, so I put it off. But now that the car is drivable, I need to be able to reliably open the door for safety reasons and just general usability.
Getting the door panels removed was fairly easy, although all of the 'how-to' threads here on the forum don't have pictures anymore. My fir tree mounts are all junk. Once I got into the door I found that I was certainly not the first to do it!! The door lock solenoid is gone, the plastic sheeting was gone, there were missing screws, and there were some cut wires. While it was open I gave everything a little cleaning and lubricating. Then worked to figure out what the issue was by disconnecting the rods and seeing what was sticking - lots of test opening and closing the door.
Eventually I worked out that the rear latch adjustment was too long and needed to be shortened by a turn or two, and the rod that goes from the lock bell crank to the lock mechanism on the arm rest was too short or bent out of shape. I used a hammer to bend it back and lengthen it a bit, and then moved the lock 'back' a bit (there is a little play in the screw holes). I also found that one of the rear rods 'L' end was a bit too long and was sometimes catching on the latch bell crank, so I shortened it by 1/8" with a finger sander. The missing screws were replaced with some stainless steel ones.
The door now locks and unlocks as one would expect, and is no longer sticking! It took about 4 hours for the whole operation.
Just Luggage and Louvre struts plus installed a new battery. Cleaned all contacts. Performed Tune up, changed airfilter... thermo switch Cold start issue. Changed out some fuzes. at 34,350 miles. 2nd owner. vin 5778
Runs better than before. Just stuff I did over winter. Not much.
Thanks for reading.
Doug
List of our D's winter season repairs and upgrades, Oct. 22 through March. 23:
- Installed DeLorean EU radiator (37yr old brass rad leaked) and DPNW rad fans while there (thanks again, Mark)
- Replaced rad cap - 5yr old cap held 10psi
- Replaced 4yr old battery
- Replaced failed reverse light switch
- Sanded/tapered the end of the vacuum actuator arm on the heater-A/C distr. housing eliminating occasional air door slapping sound during actuations
- Prev Maint items: annual oil & filter change, 3yr coolant change, cleaned fuse blades and bulkhead connectors, 5yr TABs inspection
Took the D to the post office today and had to turn around and go home. Car would hesitate when accelerating really bad. Seemed to work fine not under load and would idle fine. My guess is I need to replace the fuel filter. It's been about 15 years since it's been replaced. Guess the air filter is due also.
Mine is with Phoenix Delorean AZ for some much needed work.
17800 miles and pretty original.
All new hoses, fuel lines, fuel distributor overhaul, New Injectors, New Engine seals.
Gearbox overhaul, found a couple of potential problems, fixed before they became catastrophic. Clutch and flywheel.
Suspension upgrades, brake overhaul.
New fuel pump and sender.
Cooling Update
Drive Train Service
Engine Out Service
Roof Box Service
A/C update
New Stereo and speakers and Backup Camera
Cruise Control
Auto Headlights
Hopefully will have it back sometime in April.
Fill the tank and drive.
Broke my D out of hibernation yesterday. And in a half an hours time I gave a stranger a ride who pulled into gas station just to ask me if he could take a picture of the car. Let another couple take photos of the car and nearly gave the guy a heart attack when I told him to take a seat and I will take his picture in the car. And one other super tuff leather wearing Harley dude walked by and just said, "F'n A Bro, F'n A". I took it as a complement! :-)
Did he look like this, and tell you that if he had a million dollars he'd do two chicks at the same time?Quote:
Originally Posted by ssdelorean
https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?a...7&d=1680528536
Ha!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
No. And he didn't look like he had a case of the Mondays either!
I've been tidying up a few little things while waiting for my headlight brackets, buckets, and hardware to get refinished.
First I re-installed my hood back up release cable and actually improved it. I used a much longer steel wire (leftover DPI throttle wire, actually) so that the pull loop comes outside of the car so that you can get more leverage and a better pull-angle. Also gives you the ability repair the loop if it gets damaged or loose in the future (I smash those ferrules with a hammer on a jack stand or vise). I also added a piece of small diameter vacuum hose so that there's a nice comfortable pull.
Second, I had a couple of broken captive nuts for the top of the fascia. My car actually has had M6 cap screws since before my ownership at least. They were screwed into M6 threaded captive speed nuts. While looking at the parts book, I see the listed part is a SEM screw with integrated washer, and a smaller speed nut for machine screws. I don't like that idea so I'm going back to M6 cap screws. I ordered new threaded speed nuts from Belmetric. They had a spring-like retainer which I removed with a dremel so they can move around a bit more and not interfere with fascia alignment.
Attachment 69550
Improved backup hood release
Attachment 69551
Original-style SEM screw with washer in a small speed clip and my updated threaded speed clip below.
Attachment 69552