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I am not talking about the clearancing that was done. It's hard to from the picture but it looked damaged. Like they got sloppy with the clearancing or something else happened at some point.Quote:
Originally Posted by dmcman73
Sent from my SM-F926U1 using Tapatalk
Almost got it out the other day with the crazy warm weather we'd been having up here in WI.
But then we got 10" of snow, so it's still in sleep mode along with the E46 wagon.
https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?a...1&d=1711464973
I replaced the door roof seals with the kit from DMCH that includes the correct sized pop rivets. It was a bit of a slow process with slowly drilling out the old pop rivets, cleaning up the brackets, and getting everything lined back up again, all while taking care of the torsion bar. I did this as a "while I'm in there" while I had the t-panel off to bolt down the roof box.
I opted to use original-sized pop rivets instead of going with screws. I'm happy to report that I avoided any damage to the stainless skin of the door, which was my main area of concern.
Attachment 70463 Attachment 70462
Fixed two problems. One, I couldn't turn the heat on, wouldn't budge past maybe 1 o clock on the dial. Also, my radio wasn't working.
Went in and removed the whole center console to get to everything. Radio turned out to just be a fuse. It was only a 2.5A fuse, feels a bit weak, so replaced it with a 5A. Placed the cables so I can reach it through the footwell in the future. When having everything apart, the heat dial finally freed up. Feeling the wire when operating it, I think the screw on the other end might have got stuck on the underside of the dash/glovebox area somewhere. Anyway, I got it all back together and now everything there works. Went ahead and installed a new head unit with a built in phone holder and bluetooth. Put the microphone behind the steering wheel, so now I can actually talk on the phone in the car.
Still left to figure out:
My lambda system is still not operating properly. I will have to measure that the grounds are ok. Nobody seems to be able to explain what would cause my issue. No FV buzz or signal in diag plug, except when pressing the wot switch. Then it buzzes away. Tried a second ECU, same issue.
Since you get it to work with WOT switch, that tells us you have both FV power and ECU power. Try unplugging the O2 sensor and see if that will make it buzz (It should buzz with O2 unplugged or still warming up). If it does your O2 must be shorted. If not than check those two grounds again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nioreh
Today I removed the cruise control, and I was taking out the wiring, one of my wires was taking power from the rheostat (which is removed) wires which were also bundled together. I recognize it as work I did, but I don?t remember if the wires needed to be bundled because I removed the rheostat, or because of the LEDs, or what. So I google ?delorean rheostat wiring? and this is the first result that pops up. A thread I started exactly 10 years ago today.
I also began the wiri g to install a new head unit.
Thanked the lord for the nice motorist who flagged me down.
I re-soldered the rear light stack last night and in my excitement of getting it working thought I would put the screws in it tomorrow.
Went for a drive for fuel and forgot, ended up with the light stack hanging on the wire.
No damage all is good but one heck of a bugger to replace if it had dropped.
Finished installing the new stereo head unit.
Single din.
Physical volume knob.
Carplay.
*Wireless* car play.
Backup camera
$51.
First picture is my old head unit from 2009. It looked great, I really liked it. But it died about 5 years ago so I?ve been driving in silence or with a Bluetooth speaker. An iphone mounted in it (the original carplay).
Attachment 70530
New one looks great.
Attachment 70529Attachment 70531
What model is that new one?Quote:
Originally Posted by jackb
CAMECHO Wireless Carplay 1 DIN... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNYX496W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_shareQuote:
Originally Posted by r00b