What have you done to your DeLorean today?

Does it count if the work was done at DMCMW? :question:

Sent it there for one thing and one thing only. Transmission governor replacement. Here is what she left with:

New master cylinder
Checked high idle and smoke, was a bad O2 sensor, replaced and adjusted fuel mixture idle
Replaced both window switches (to check if drivers motor was bad)
Replaced drivers window motor
Discovered passenger motor was off track, reglued
Converted pull straps to later style
Bought glove box latch, rear catch assembly


Scope creep was pretty evident here :shhh:

Arranged transport from DMCMW to San Antonio. Expensive day.

Spare tire (with newer rubber) re-sealed, rim painted: http://www.16908.info/?p=2626
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Originally Posted by EdR5150

Spare tire (with newer rubber) re-sealed, rim painted: http://www.16908.info/?p=2626

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I just recently had my spare bead sealed to the rim (it was leaking along the bead), although I chose to retain the original tire, as it was otherwise good. Did it at the same time I had my NCT's mounted and ready for the Dayton trip :biggrin:

Getting 48F vent temps with Ultra Duster (r-152a) in my a/c system, which hasn't worked since the mid '80's. Didn't replace a single system component other than the compressor oil and refrigerant. No leaks and the compressor appears to be working quite well. I admittedly fudged the charging process as I wasn't used to working with the hose fittings - if you tightened the fittings (even just hand tight), the schrader valve depressors within the fittings would completely block flow to the hose, thus requiring me to find a 'happy spot' in-between loose and hand tight in order to properly charge the system through my manifold gauge set, during which experimentation, some refrigerant was lost to atmosphere and some air was probably introduced into the system, unfortunately.

But all things considered, together with the fact that I've never done a/c work before in my life, I'm actually quite pleased with the results.

Dialing in the low pressure switch would probably also help performance/efficiency, but I'm confident that on a second go round, and applying the knowledge gained in the mistakes I made, I should be able to see vent temps in the high 30's using Ultra Duster.

And the best part is that I can evacuate the refrigerant to atmosphere without a guilty conscience and try again for less than $7 - try that with r-12, r-134a, or even a 12a product (more expensive).

Ultra Duster is my refrigerant of choice - highly recommended! :thumbup:

Now to re-track the driver's side window - again.... (BTW - it doesn't pull away from the track, it just rolls down too far and completely off the end of the track. Adding a stopper this time around :cool1:

Re-blackened tail light bezels ready to be installed back onto the car today. That lil' scratch has always been in my lens and almost gives my car character so prolly not looking at fixing that. See some of you tonight!

http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/...Picture010.jpg

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Originally Posted by DeLorean03

Re-blackened tail light bezels ready to be installed back onto the car today. That lil' scratch has always been in my lens and almost gives my car character so prolly not looking at fixing that. See some of you tonight!

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Looks swell!

today i did nothing...

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Originally Posted by DeLorean03

Re-blackened tail light bezels ready to be installed back onto the car today. That lil' scratch has always been in my lens and almost gives my car character so prolly not looking at fixing that. See some of you tonight!

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Looks good! I have my lenses off at the moment to try and restore the black. Mind sharing how you sorted yours?

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Originally Posted by jwrayth

Looks good! I have my lenses off at the moment to try and restore the black. Mind sharing how you sorted yours?

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Don't mind at all!


I utilized blue painter's tape to cover the lenses, and I used an exacto knife to trim around the lenses and get rid of the tape that covered the black bezel.

Next, I used isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel to wipe off dirt and grime. Then, I used medium level steel wool to lightly sand the black bezel. I then cleaned it one more time with isopropyl alcohol.

From there, I utilized SEM trim black paint and gave the tail lights about 3 layers of paint - 20 minutes apart. Finally, I let them air dry for 2 nights to make sure the paint cured.

They came out darn well, and I am very pleased with them, considering some parts were actually starting to fade to white they were so old/worn out. Beats $150 a side for new ones.

Yesterday, I had some questions about foot-well lighting in the car.

Here's how I did it in terms of wiring (enjoy Rich_NYS!):

http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/...t_Lighting.jpg

Picked up by refurbished roof and door interior panels from the upholsterer just need to replace some fir tree clips and refit.

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Originally Posted by DeLorean03

Don't mind at all!


I utilized blue painter's tape to cover the lenses, and I used an exacto knife to trim around the lenses and get rid of the tape that covered the black bezel.

Next, I used isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel to wipe off dirt and grime. Then, I used medium level steel wool to lightly sand the black bezel. I then cleaned it one more time with isopropyl alcohol.

From there, I utilized SEM trim black paint and gave the tail lights about 3 layers of paint - 20 minutes apart. Finally, I let them air dry for 2 nights to make sure the paint cured.

They came out darn well, and I am very pleased with them, considering some parts were actually starting to fade to white they were so old/worn out. Beats $150 a side for new ones.

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Thanks! I just re-finished my windscreen trim so have some SEM Trim black spare, so I think I'll have a go at this myself next week!

I replaced ALL the headliners!
The "old" smell of the car has gone away...
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My friend Dave helped me to install my new set of Sylvana Headlights (low and high be a,) and my driver's side inner door seal. What wonders a rubber mallet can do.

Now my door ajar light goes on shortly after driving. The door seal is still pushing the door away. The door ajar light in the dash, which is actually a LED, is first dim. I have never seen a LED be only dim.

However, I hope that this will go away once the seals settled.

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Originally Posted by vps3922

My friend Dave helped me to install my new set of Sylvana Headlights (low and high be a,) and my driver's side inner door seal. What wonders a rubber mallet can do.

Now my door ajar light goes on shortly after driving. The door seal is still pushing the door away. The door ajar light in the dash, which is actually a LED, is first dim. I have never seen a LED be only dim.

However, I hope that this will go away once the seals settled.

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Did you check that the door sensors are wiring are still solidly fixed? Perhaps the mounting screw did come undone or perhaps a bad connection...

Having fitted Specialt's condenser to replace a damaged one (prior to me) new accumulator, new pag oil and converted the fittings to R134 got the A/C re-gassed, working for the first time in at least 15 years.
Bring on the summer. :wiggle:
Chris

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Originally Posted by robvanderveer

Did you check that the door sensors are wiring are still solidly fixed? Perhaps the mounting screw did come undone or perhaps a bad connection...

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The mallet may have jarred something loose but I think the new seals are just keeping the door a tad further out than before.

Volker - a piece of black crafts foam in top of the black plastic contact plate on the door should be sufficient to make enough contact with the switch.

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Originally Posted by sdg3205

Volker - a piece of black crafts foam in top of the black plastic contact plate on the door should be sufficient to make enough contact with the switch.

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As a matter of fact, I use a bicycle tube cap for that.

http://www.motozone.co.nz/images/pro...1069-large.jpg

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Originally Posted by robvanderveer

Did you check that the door sensors are wiring are still solidly fixed? Perhaps the mounting screw did come undone or perhaps a bad connection...

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Yes, they were. I tok the plug off so my door lights will stay off during driving. They are LEDs, so nothing to worry, but still.
The new seal is still not perfectly settled and the distance between the switch and door increased so it seems to get a contact. It is fine when I slam the door shut but starts after a few meters driving over uneven surfaces.
I will add something to the door until the seal settles. Than should temporarily fix it. I would like to go for a magnetic option like Dave McKeen has, but I still have to find some DIY instructions for that. I do not want to re-invent the wheel here.

Thanks for the tip though!

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Originally Posted by sdg3205

The mallet may have jarred something loose but I think the new seals are just keeping the door a tad further out than before.

Volker - a piece of black crafts foam in top of the black plastic contact plate on the door should be sufficient to make enough contact with the switch.

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Yep, I totally agree. I will see what I have at home to make this happen.
Thanks! And thanks for your help yesterday!

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Originally Posted by robvanderveer

As a matter of fact, I use a bicycle tube cap for that.

http://www.motozone.co.nz/images/pro...1069-large.jpg

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That is an interesting idea. I will check if I still have a few from old tires.

Car has arrived! Started looking it over, getting excited.

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Congratulation on your purchase, look great next to the VW :biggrin:

Got the car up on jack stands.....but I am WORN out.....every lugnut was an issue......I broke a ratchet on one. Sprayed with some PB blaster, went and bought a new ratchet, fought some more and they finally caved. Attempted to take off the front caliper, another fight.....gave up for the day haha......I think its time to hit the gym.Attachment 28178

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Originally Posted by alexwolf1216

Got the car up on jack stands.....but I am WORN out.....every lugnut was an issue......I broke a ratchet on one. Sprayed with some PB blaster, went and bought a new ratchet, fought some more and they finally caved. Attempted to take off the front caliper, another fight.....gave up for the day haha......I think its time to hit the gym.Attachment 28178

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It looks like you have a hover conversion installed there. ;)

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Originally Posted by DeLorean03

Yesterday, I had some questions about foot-well lighting in the car.

Here's how I did it in terms of wiring (enjoy Rich_NYS!):

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-Got it....thanks man!

vps3922...

You mentioned the warning light is dim, but not as bright as it normally would be.

My warning light flickered a number of times, but wasn't coming on all the time as I was getting to DCS on Thursday. When I was leaving on Sunday, it had started to come on and stay on.

I had assumed it was the driver's side as it's the only one really getting much use, but it turned out it was the passenger side. I have the vacuum caps on the end of my plungers to add some length and what had happened was the cap itself was pushed on to the end of the plunger, but not all the way in order to find this sweet spot to engage the switch. Over time it worked it's way down further onto the plunger.

I think it was still at an okay length for the door to push on it, but since it was now butting against the fiberglass surface around the switch, it couldn't push the switch in at all. I wiggled the vacuum cap out a few millimeters and it was back working fine as the switch could slide in and out again.

Wasn't sure if that was what was happening on your car, but I thought I would mention it. My solution will be to put tiny something in the cap and then put it on so it has something inside to block it from wiggling itself down too far.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

vps3922...

You mentioned the warning light is dim, but not as bright as it normally would be.

My warning light flickered a number of times, but wasn't coming on all the time as I was getting to DCS on Thursday. When I was leaving on Sunday, it had started to come on and stay on.

I had assumed it was the driver's side as it's the only one really getting much use, but it turned out it was the passenger side. I have the vacuum caps on the end of my plungers to add some length and what had happened was the cap itself was pushed on to the end of the plunger, but not all the way in order to find this sweet spot to engage the switch. Over time it worked it's way down further onto the plunger.

I think it was still at an okay length for the door to push on it, but since it was now butting against the fiberglass surface around the switch, it couldn't push the switch in at all. I wiggled the vacuum cap out a few millimeters and it was back working fine as the switch could slide in and out again.

Wasn't sure if that was what was happening on your car, but I thought I would mention it. My solution will be to put tiny something in the cap and then put it on so it has something inside to block it from wiggling itself down too far.

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Hi Jonathan,

thank you. I will have a look and try it out. I found some caps I could use on it as well but I will do some troubleshooting before.

Oh-man, DCS, I wuld have loved to be there. Saw the next one is in Indianapolis. Why not Seattle or Portland (no answer required)? :sad30:

Put on the new/old car cover I received from DMC MW and it fits like a glove and is looking great (will post pics later).

Pressure tested the coolant system; 3 hoses leaking. Though I was testing as I thought my radiator was leaking, and it appeared to be doing fine! Going to run a longer test at the weekend to be safe and see.

Now I need to see about finally upgrading to silicone hoses, hopefully in blue...

Not really doen anything yet but I want to share with all of you that I received a pair of TOBY's TABS from my fellow forum buddy Conundrum.

I could not wait opening the parcel. Toby Peterson told me the story about these TABs himself on my recent visit to DMC NW and it is an amazing story. These bolts have been produced aside of a line of bolts responsible to hold the engines of a Boeing airplane on its wings. They are from amazing strength and will most likely outlast the lifetime of the car (one day in a distant future somebody on a digging site will dig out a few of these TABs and wonder what they belonged to).

I would not have thought that I will one day hold them in my hands. Well, thanks to Conundrum, it happened.

You can imagine that a halo appeared above them when I opened the package and a small chior of angels sung in perfect tune the standard, slightly whispered "Ahaaaaaaaaaaaaaa" :angel:. I held them up in the air like Link would hold a new item up in any Zelda game, and I was waiting for the standard Zelda chime.

And there I was, wondering how two bolts can make a man happy. I have planned to get Toby or his mechanic John to put them in for me one day in the future because I read several times that it is super hard to get in on an automatic, but I do not have a date for that yet. Just having them makes me happy for now. Knowing that the only time I have to replace TABs on my automatic will be the last in the lifetime of the car.

Thank you Matt (Conundrum)! :thumbup2:

got my leather recovered canopy ;)

Attachment 28351

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Originally Posted by BABIS

got my leather recovered canopy ;)

Attachment 28351

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Never seen this done before but I like it! Interested to see what it looks like installed. This feels like it should have been done in the factory. The stock canopy looks a little cheap compared the the rest of the interior.

Installed a $10 keyless entry system

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Originally Posted by DavidProehl

Interested to see what it looks like installed. This feels like it should have been done in the factory. The stock canopy looks a little cheap compared the the rest of the interior.

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+1 on both (see it installed and it should have come like that from the factoy...at least vinyl leather)

Installed Stevie67cars' handmade fiberglass binnacle. Loving it! I've wanted to replace this since I bought the car. Very pleased with this!

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As you can tell, my interior has faded so there is some difference between the new binnacle and the rest of the car. I'll live with this for a while before I determine if I want to redye anything or not.

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Originally Posted by DavidProehl

Installed Stevie67cars' handmade fiberglass binnacle. Loving it! I've wanted to replace this since I bought the car. Very pleased with this!

Attachment 28381Attachment 28382Attachment 28383Attachment 28384Attachment 28385Attachment 28386Attachment 28387Attachment 28388Attachment 28389

As you can tell, my interior has faded so there is some difference between the new binnacle and the rest of the car. I'll live with this for a while before I determine if I want to redye anything or not.

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What a huge difference! Congrats! :)

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Originally Posted by BABIS

got my leather recovered canopy ;)

Attachment 28351

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Absolutely love this!

After fighting with my car for several days, I now have 4 new calipers installed (thanks to Josh at DPI for getting me wheel bearings quickly). I stupidly stripped a fitting on the metal line, so DMC is sending me one. Should be bled out and operational by the weekend.

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Originally Posted by alexwolf1216

Got the car up on jack stands.....but I am WORN out.....every lugnut was an issue......I broke a ratchet on one. Sprayed with some PB blaster, went and bought a new ratchet, fought some more and they finally caved. Attempted to take off the front caliper, another fight.....gave up for the day haha......I think its time to hit the gym.Attachment 28178

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When re-installing, be sure to use some anti-seize lubricant.