New front end issues: Torn steering rack boot, tie rod ends, and leaking brake fluid

After a long stretch of not getting work done on my car (winter and too many business trips), I finally had the time to finish replacing all the coolant hoses on the car. I finished with hoses at the front end of the car... In the process of taking the fuel tank closing plate off and working around the hoses near the radiator I uncovered the following issues:

Attachment 33427Attachment 33428Attachment 33429Attachment 33430

The repair list seem to be a never ending story. :-)

So, I've heard that it is not unusual for the fuel tank closing plate to be in bad shape. Is this one salvageable? Do I clean it up with a rotary wire brush to prep for re-coating? Now... The related question is if I have a master cylinder leak that also needs to be dealt with. I have no idea how long the closing plate has looked like this. I included a side shot of the servo unit and master cylinder. It looks like leak evidence to me, but I don't know if I need check further before ripping yet another component out of the car. Is it a clear that I'll need to replace the master cylinder based on what can be seen in this image?

The next issues is torn boots on the steering rack and tie rod ends. What can I do here? Does the rack have to be replaced? Or, can I clean this one up, repack with grease, and install new boots? (Looks like they are called "bellows" in the parts manual.) I assume the tie rod ends need to be completely replaced.

Thanks for any advice!
-Luke

Your closing plate really doesn't look that bad it's definitely salvageable. Clean, prep & paint. I believe POR-15 is the popular choice, that's what I'll be using on mine.

Regarding the steering rack, do you have noticeable free play in the steering wheel? Reference the stitched seam at the top how much left/right movement do you have. If you have substantial movement you should consider steering rack replacement. That will kill several birds with one stone.

Your closing plate can be refurbished. But I would have it sand blasted as opposed to wire brushing. That's just my preference. You can do as you see fit.

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Originally Posted by DMC5180

Your closing plate can be refurbished. But I would have it sand blasted as opposed to wire brushing. That's just my preference. You can do as you see fit.

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Hmm... I'm interested in the sand blasting idea. I've never had any sandblasting work done before, but I can see from a quick Google search that there are some shops in the area that do it. Could you tell me ballpark number for what I might spend to have the closing plate sandblasted?

I also noticed that some of these shops offer power coating services too. Any thoughts about taking that approach to refinishing it?

I drilled a few 1/4" holes in my closing plate to prevent water from collecting there. If you decide to do that, do it before you powder coat or POR15 it.

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Originally Posted by lsoasey

Hmm... I'm interested in the sand blasting idea. I've never had any sandblasting work done before, but I can see from a quick Google search that there are some shops in the area that do it. Could you tell me ballpark number for what I might spend to have the closing plate sandblasted?

I also noticed that some of these shops offer power coating services too. Any thoughts about taking that approach to refinishing it?

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Ballpark estimates would depend on what you have them do. Just sandblast vs complete re-coating process.
Blasting only $15-25. Then factor in materials for POR-15 or a powder coat process probably falls into $50-$75 total refinish cost.

Your fuel tank closing plate is definitely salvageable. Like others said, clean it up and coat it with POR-15.

A torn boot on your steering rack alone shouldn't necessitate a complete replacement. You may only need the boot kit:

http://store.delorean.com/p-7334-boo...rh-and-lh.aspx

I don't remember if it comes with the grease as well or if that is only the rear drive axle boot kit that includes that.

If you are going to replace the tie rod ends as well, have a closer inspection of the rest of the rack and check for play as mentioned. You may go the route of a completely new one, but that's quite the jump in price to go from a $42 boot kit plus two $24 tie rod end replacements to the new rack price of $429. Judgement call for you and what you feel better about.

This kind of damage is typical after the brake master leaks brake fluid and melts the epoxy. If you really want to go all the way you need to remove the fuel tank and clean up the damage on the frame too. Definitely replace the torn seals on the tie rod ends and the steering rack. Before replacing the seals see just how much looseness (play) you have. If the parts are loose enough you may need to replace the part, not just the boots and seals. There is a good chance the parts are salvageable and all you have to do is the boots and seals. Be sure to measure so you can put everything back EXACTLY as you took it apart so you don't mess up the alignment. Probably a good idea to have it checked after you finish anyway. If you sandblast you really don't need to use POR-15 since you will be removing all of the rust. You only need POR-15 if you don't remove the rust. Like if you find rust on the frame and have to fix it in your garage and can't sandblast.

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Originally Posted by David T

This kind of damage is typical after the brake master leaks brake fluid and melts the epoxy. If you really want to go all the way you need to remove the fuel tank and clean up the damage on the frame too.

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Yes exact,y what Dave said, as the fluid had to run down something to get down there. This is what I found and fixed when I removed my tank a few years ago:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=11610

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Originally Posted by DMC5180

Ballpark estimates would depend on what you have them do. Just sandblast vs complete re-coating process.
Blasting only $15-25. Then factor in materials for POR-15 or a powder coat process probably falls into $50-$75 total refinish cost.

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Great... It helps to have this initial reference point. I'll probably start calling a few of the sandblasting shops around town tomorrow.

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Originally Posted by David T

This kind of damage is typical after the brake master leaks brake fluid and melts the epoxy. If you really want to go all the way you need to remove the fuel tank and clean up the damage on the frame too.

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Thanks Dave & Tillsy for the tip on removing the tank to check the frame. Tillsy, thanks also for the example pictures. What did you use to clean up that area prior to coating.? I haven't done any frame rust treatment yet, but I have few other minor spots on the frame that could probably use some attention before rust is allowed to spread.

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Definitely replace the torn seals on the tie rod ends and the steering rack. Before replacing the seals see just how much looseness (play) you have. If the parts are loose enough you may need to replace the part, not just the boots and seals. There is a good chance the parts are salvageable and all you have to do is the boots and seals. Be sure to measure so you can put everything back EXACTLY as you took it apart so you don't mess up the alignment.

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I appreciate the tips on the steering rack and tie end rods too... I jacked up the front end of the car tonight to make a more detailed inspection of these items. The steering rack seems to be rock solid. I can't detect any unusual play in the rods leading back to the rack. I'll probably just order the boot kit to take care of this one.

I also pulled one of the tie rod ends off the knuckle and I do have some doubts about its condition. The ball joint seems to grab just a little when I manually shift it's position. But, perhaps more problematic is how difficult the nut is to rotate on the threaded arm which connects to the knuckle. I don't know how I would be able to spin this nut back down to tighten it up. The ball joints just wants to spin instead. Given these two observations, I may just opt to pick a pair of new tie rod ends.

For reinstalling a ball joint the easiest way is to place a jack under it putting upward pressure on the joint/arm assembly. Also make sure taper surfaces are free of grease. The taper will then seat allowing you to tighten the nut to it's proper torque value.

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Originally Posted by lsoasey

I also pulled one of the tie rod ends off the knuckle and I do have some doubts about its condition. The ball joint seems to grab just a little when I manually shift it's position. But, perhaps more problematic is how difficult the nut is to rotate on the threaded arm which connects to the knuckle. I don't know how I would be able to spin this nut back down to tighten it up. The ball joints just wants to spin instead. Given these two observations, I may just opt to pick a pair of new tie rod ends.

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You can wire brush the threads and even run a tap through the nut to clean things up.

Great tips on re-installing the tie rod ends! Thanks!

On the topic of the brake master cylinder -- I have decided that the MC probably needs to be replaced. Obviously this will need to be done if it is indeed leaking. What can of worms am I opening when I do this swap? Should I expect that all of my calipers will need to be rebuilt now too? They are not presently leaking as far as know. I'm not sure if the new fluid will cause a chain reaction of issues.

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Originally Posted by lsoasey

Great tips on re-installing the tie rod ends! Thanks!

On the topic of the brake master cylinder -- I have decided that the MC probably needs to be replaced. Obviously this will need to be done if it is indeed leaking. What can of worms am I opening when I do this swap? Should I expect that all of my calipers will need to be rebuilt now too? They are not presently leaking as far as know. I'm not sure if the new fluid will cause a chain reaction of issues.

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If the MC leaks it means the brake fluid got bad enough to corrode the internals of the brake system. Typically when you wake up a sleeper the MC will leak first but not always. The calipers won't leak at least not right away. Once you start moving the pistons (assuming they aren't stuck!) they will leak as the pads wear and the pistons move out and the seals get over where the pistons are all corroded and the plating is gone. This forum has seem enough sleepers to know the usual chain of events. Just rebuild the brake and clutch systems completely or you will be doing it in pieces but you WILL be doing it. As with any old, used car if you do not know when the fluids and filters were last done and exactly what fluids were used you just flush and replace ALL fluids. Filters too along with other service items like belts, hoses, spark plugs, ignition wires, cap, rotor, battery, tires, and wiper blades. You can skimp on doing all of the service but you will still wind up doing it when the car breaks down. Then you can add towing to the costs!

I received the some parts this week: Master Cylinder, Steering rack boots, and a pair of tie rod ends. (I probably should have ordered a caliper rebuild kit too... That might be next.)

Question on the new tie rod ends: I pulled all parts out for closer inspection after the shipping box arrived. I've never bought or installed new tie rod ends before, so I don't really know what to expect. I noticed that the threaded shaft is very stiff to move compared with movement of the old ones. It takes a firm grip with two hands to move the ball around in the joint. Is this normal for a new tie rod ends? Do they loosen up with use as the grease starts spread around in the joint? (I ordered these from DMCH if that makes any difference.)

New joints are supposed to be stiff and tight. As they see use they will naturally loosen or break in.

Update: I dropped off the closing plate at a local shop for sandblasting and powder coating last week. I'm looking forward to seeing the results. I'll posts pictures once I get it back.

Question: I'm going to dig into the master cylinder and steering rack later this week. I was trying to read up on how to properly service the steering rack, but I could use some advice since I've never really dealt with this one before. I've read in other posts that a torn boot usually means that the rack oil has also leaked out to some extent. Does this imply that the the boots themselves are by design a part of the seal which keeps the oil contained in the rack mechanism? As I mentioned in a previous post, I think my steering rack still feels relatively solid, so I don't think a rebuild or replacement is going to be necessary at this point. If my understanding about oil loss is correct, however, I assume that will need to refill the rack with gear oil at a minimum. Here's were I need some specific advice: I've found older forum posts which indicate that I can top off the rack without removing it via the top bushing cover. I also read in the shop manual that the rack has to be removed and oil added at one end with rack positioned vertically. How do you add oil this way? The manual doesn't really explain this... Do I really need to do it this way, or should I just attempt the top-off approach without removal?

Thanks in advance for the advice!

Hi. I serviced my steering rack recently, and I added the oil through the plate as you mentioned. However, I had removed the rack. It was too awkward to fill it from the end and I found there was not enough room for the oil to enter the rack body without spilling it. I don't know if that plate is tilted too far forward with the rack in the car to allow properly filling it. I'll let others chime in on whether to remove it. I recommend the Service Manual if you have one. Other than that, here are my tips:

1) remove the tie rod ends. Be sure to count the rotations as you un-screw them so you can put the new ones on the same number of turns. That will get you close enough to drive it to the alignment shop afterwards.
2) Remove the boots/bellows. They hold the gear oil in the rack, so be prepared to catch some oil in a pan. The rack only holds a few ounces, so it's not much.
3) install the new boots, and tighten the clamps snug but not too tight, especially on the outer clamps.
4) Install the new tie rod ends
5) add the new gear oil through the plate. There is a spring and a plastic bushing that you will have to carefully remove first. You may need some RTV sealant to help seal the plate again. I used Castrol Axle Limited Slip 80W-90 gear oil. It calls for 1/3 pint, or 5.33 oz. Don't overfill it.
6) check for leaks, even after few days.

If you end up removing the rack, you have to remove the clamps and the 2 rubber bushings before the rack will come out, or even move. Make sure to note where this hardware goes and the orientation of the bushing to rack. It was tedious but not difficult job. A helper is ideal, and so is patience.

Good luck!