This may be an incredibly stupid question but what is the standard size for the head light bulbs on an '83 delorean. I always like to keep a spare but I can't find documentation on the size anywhere. Thank you!
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This may be an incredibly stupid question but what is the standard size for the head light bulbs on an '83 delorean. I always like to keep a spare but I can't find documentation on the size anywhere. Thank you!
Are they not just stock sealed beams?
I have the Cibie H4/ H7 conversions but I believe OE is just your run of the mill rectangle sealed beams.
PS: If your headlights are old, I would just replace them all or at least the two low beams. Old OE lights tend to dim over time. Go all out and get some really nice Sylvania extended vision lamps. I don't worry too much about price difference whe it comes to illumination. Be sure you get the ones for a 4 headlight setup.
If you need a size I think they are 6"x4" or 6.5" x 4"...no way really to get the wrong size unless you are blind and get the big square ones.
You can keep the old one as an emergency spare but I don't think it's worth taking up the space. Spares are as close as your local Advance or even Walmart.
Thanks. I am a *very* new owner and I am still trying to work it all out in my head. I appreciate the advise.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael
H4656 and H4651. One is low beam the other is high beam. Stock ones are 4x6 sealed beam.
I would guess these sealed beams will not be a stock item in a few years. When that happens, I will have to convert my D.
I just changed out some headlights and learned a few things that might help. I didnt know what a sealed beam is, but the delorean headlight is essentially a big bulb in that you have to replace the whole thing if you want a new bulb. The low beams use the same connector as H4, but the wiring is different. The high beams use H1 connectors. If you switch to headlight housing that uses bulbs instead, such as a semi sealed beam, you will need to switch some wires. Check the headlight circuit under the resource section and h4 bulb wiring to make sure you do the right ones. H4 and H1 bulbs also have different sized bases. I bought a set of 4 matching headlights and found this out the "hard" way. My solution will be using 4 bixenon h4 bulbs since each pair requires a single H4 connector to run.
Agreed. I just installed Sylvania SilverStars. I chose these because the cars came with Sylvanias originally and the Silverstars are a higher performance, whiter light. Here's a pic of the boxes with the part numbers for reference. H4651ST is the high beam, and H4656ST is the low beam. You can't mix them up because the high beams have 2 prongs, while the low beams have 3 prongs as mentioned above.Quote:
Originally Posted by davidc89
Attachment 38155
+1 on the silverstars. I noticed a big improvement over the stock bulbs. I don't think they're as good as a full H4/H7 halogen conversion, but if you're looking to keep the stock look of the headlights then the silverstars are the way to go.
You don't actually have possession of your car yet, do you?Quote:
Originally Posted by Scootdive
Buy spares while you can get them. They won't last as long as the OEM bulbs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
True, they do burn out faster than a regular sealed beam. In the 7 years I've owned my car I think I've burned out two low beams and I always replace in pairs so I'm now on my third set. I don't do much night driving so I'm still on my first set of high beams.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
Are the silverstars in our size being discontinued or something that I should stock up?
Sorry I messed up my post earlier. Dont know why I thought the high beams were H1, must have misread H7 as H1.
Not in particular, but as mentioned above they aren't building cars that use them any more.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
Is there any increased risk of melting the headlight switch with the Silverstars vs the OEM bulbs?
Only if the current draw is higher, which I don't think it is but check. I believe most of these are 55/60 or maybe its 45/55, I can't remember.Quote:
Originally Posted by DL4567
Some of the euro spec bulbs (both halogen and sealed beams) are rated at 55/80 and they will burn up pigtails, fuses, and in DeLorean's case, headlight switches.
There is no change in the current through the switch. The headlights use two relays (high, low beams). So the switch current is only a concern if you used higher power running lights (side, rear, etc.). Or better yet, put LEDs in the running lights to lower the current through the switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by DL4567
They might not make 4x6 headlights in cars anymore, but they still use them in commercial applications. So you shouldn't need to stock up quite yet.
This is a very interesting comment. I've had a "headlight switch saver" sitting in a drawer for a while now, and been putting off installing it because I don't want to remove the center console again. Would simply changing out the 4 fender running lights for LEDs (and maybe also the 2 in the front bumper) dramatically lessen the worry of my original headlight switch failing one day? (And save me the trouble of installing the "switch saver"?)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Most likely yes. I don't have a switch save relay and don't plan to use one because my running lights are LED. I still need to LED the binnacle lights which also power from the light switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by DL4567
One of the problems when powering on incandescent bulbs is the current is very high until the bulb heats up. So switching lights on is harder on the switch. Switching inductive loads (like fans) is harder on a switch when they are turning off because the voltage spikes turning off power into an inductor.
So your four side lights, two front "parking lights", two rear "parking lights, your rear license plate lights, five binnacle lights, four AC panel lights and the cig lighter light are all powered through the switch.
This is great news. I originally planned to use all new Sylvania Long Life bulbs on the exterior, but after getting them, I didn't like the dimness of the incandescent or the heat that they gave off ( especially on the side marker lights), so I got DMC's exterior LED bulb kit. Now I have another reason to feel good about the upgrade.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I'll continue with the LEDs inside as much as possible.
Other than my alternator light every single bulb on 11035 is all LED including the low beam and High Beam headlights and the glove box light!
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What brand headlights did you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian Dietrich
2 sets of these for lows and highs. Only change you have to do is swap the low/high beam wire for the outer headlight. For some reason the leds plug is backwards. Very simple to do and no other mods needed. Don't even have to cut the head light buckets. This was from my drive the other night at around 11 o'clock in the eveninghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b6c9b56e1e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d87a6127ea.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3b7ecb9636.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Timeless
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OCTANE LIGHTING 4X6" White Led Halo Angel Eye Halogen Headlight Headlamp Bulbs Crystal Clear Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GNU0TG6..._4ZHUCbY32YZ61
These are the headlight assemblies that the led's are sitting in
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