Door Lock Breaker Malfunction

I stopped today to grab a soda and tried locking the passenger side door from the inside. I rarely have it work when I lock one from the inside and the other locks on it's own. I noticed the door lock on the driver side go half way and the car seemed like it was trying to lock it (volts dropped). I unlocked them and when I got back in my car I noticed a clicking sound from the relay area. It kept doing this even with the car off. Almost exactly every 15 seconds. I removed the small wire and it stopped. Any ideas what it going on or how to fix it? Would love to have the door locks work properly but would rather just fix the current issue.

Here is a video of what is happening: https://youtu.be/_kjhMS4UMrU

sounds like something is drawing lots of current,
like - a sticking relay

that's why I told like 2000000 times to install a 10A fuse in the fat red wire


6548 says greeting to San Diego :-)

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Originally Posted by Elvis

sounds like something is drawing lots of current,
like - a sticking relay

that's why I told like 2000000 times to install a 10A fuse in the fat red wire


6548 says greeting to San Diego :-)

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Thanks Elvis,

Can you tell me what the small red wire is for?

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Originally Posted by cdmcali

Thanks Elvis,

Can you tell me what the small red wire is for?

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Power antenna.

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Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave

Power antenna.

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I wonder why the switch kept triggering until I unhooked that small wire.

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Originally Posted by cdmcali

I wonder why the switch kept triggering until I unhooked that small wire.

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As Elvis mentioned, you likely have a sticking relay. Either in the DLM or Power Antenna. It could just be coincidental that pulling the power antenna wire stopped the clicking. The photo shows the small red wire on the 12v source side of the breaker.
which should effect the load through the breaker.

Most of the time the issues are in the Door locking System. Once you get to the stage where the lock solenoids get burned, they loose the ability to fully actuate the locks. Your DLM probably just needs some up grading.


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Originally Posted by cdmcali

I wonder why the switch kept triggering until I unhooked that small wire.

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What small red wire did you pull? My power antenna relay is in the drivers side compartment.

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Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster

What small red wire did you pull? My power antenna relay is in the drivers side compartment.

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the relay is there, but the power for it is plugged into the brown wire side of the DLM breaker as shown in his photo.


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Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster

What small red wire did you pull? My power antenna relay is in the drivers side compartment.

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But it's powered from the Lock Module breaker. Unless you've modified that by now.

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Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave

But it's powered from the Lock Module breaker. Unless you've modified that by now.

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I haven't modified the lock system at all. Now that the clicking of the breaker has stopped by removing that wire, do I have any thing to worry about? My antenna doesn't work anyway. Can I leave it unplugged? Any ideas what I should do if it happens again with the wire unplugged?

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Originally Posted by cdmcali

I haven't modified the lock system at all. Now that the clicking of the breaker has stopped by removing that wire, do I have any thing to worry about? My antenna doesn't work anyway. Can I leave it unplugged? Any ideas what I should do if it happens again with the wire unplugged?

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The antenna relay is probably shorted and causing the issue. No harm in leaving it disconnected, and any replacement antenna will use a different relay setup.

If you have the issue with the antenna disconnected, you need to unplug the lock module (heavy red wire and a 9-pin connector) to completely kill the door lock circuit.

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Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave

But it's powered from the Lock Module breaker. Unless you've modified that by now.

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I may have modified that wiring but don't recall doing it. I never knew that breaker was where the power antenna got it's power. I don't have a door lock breaker anymore. My door lock ECU has a breaker inside the ECU case.

I'm guessing that since the Power antenna Running production change, The picked the door lock break as a point of convenience. It's a plug n play Live power source.


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Just for the sake of clarifying, my own and maybe others... how do the connections on top of this type of circuit breaker relate to power in/power out? Can it be thought of in this way, such that one end is the live feed and the opposite end is where that power is intended to go? Would it then make sense that when/if you have more than one connection on the top, for the double tab connector, you would be cutting off the power to both circuits if the two connections are on the "outlet" end? And similarly, if you have two connections on the "feed" side, then one of those would be the live feed wire and the second would be an "always connected" pathway to get power on to the next item from that live feed wire? Is that right? Do these circuit breakers have a dedicated in and out end or are they able to be "facing" either way so long as you stay consistent with how the connections are made on the top? Thanks Daves.

If you look closely at the circuit breakers, most have labeling of power and or load. So I would assume they only work correctly is powered that way. Circuits on the load side would all cut power if any load exceeds the amp rating. Circuits added to the power supply wire would always have power so your added circuit should have some current protection elsewhere.

By the way, fuses and circuit breakers are mostly to protect for short circuits. A fuse or breaker running only 10 to 20% over the rating could take a few minuets to open circuit.

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Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster

If you look closely at the circuit breakers, most have labeling of power and or load. .

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For some reason the convention seems to be "BATT" and "AUX".

BATT is the "hot" (battery) side and "AUX is the load side.

I'm not sure why it makes a difference since heat is heat, but my guess is that wired backwards it may have a somewhat different rating than the label shows.

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Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave

For some reason the convention seems to be "BATT" and "AUX".

BATT is the "hot" (battery) side and "AUX is the load side.

I'm not sure why it makes a difference since heat is heat, but my guess is that wired backwards it may have a somewhat different rating than the label shows.

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If that small red wire to the power antennae was the problem you would think he would have blown the in-line fuse on that wire before making the big breaker pop and reset. I wonder if we are talking about the same small red wire. He is having problems with the Central Locking System and until it can be fixed he should unplug the module and disconnect the BIG red wire.

Thanks for the clarifications. Got the ole Dave-trifecta answer on that question :)

I still think like a water treatment guy and the idea of the circuit breakers having slightly different loads or ratings if "plumbed" in the wrong way makes sense to me. Most valves in process piping will work both ways, but are designed to work most effectively when installed a certain way.

I was in some training recently and we were talking electrical supplies and transformers and what not at power plants and the comment was made that if you ask an electrical guy what fails in an electrical component, he'll tell you nothing does. Any electrical failures are really just mechanical components that have failed. The electrons are always going to do the same thing. I can see his point.

While water is often used as an analogy for electrical flow, it doesn't always work the same. Many devices used for water and electric are sensitive to the direction of flow but for very different reasons. Just take it that you should always hook the input (Positive Terminal, + 12 volt) of a circuit breaker to the BAT terminal.

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Originally Posted by David T

While water is often used as an analogy for electrical flow, it doesn't always work the same. Many devices used for water and electric are sensitive to the direction of flow but for very different reasons. Just take it that you should always hook the input (Positive Terminal, + 12 volt) of a circuit breaker to the BAT terminal.

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Circuit breakers are not diodes. It's just a small bi-metal strip that opens when hot, and closes back up when it cools off. I did some online research and still can't really find a reason why they should be directional.

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Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave

The antenna relay is probably shorted and causing the issue. No harm in leaving it disconnected, and any replacement antenna will use a different relay setup.

If you have the issue with the antenna disconnected, you need to unplug the lock module (heavy red wire and a 9-pin connector) to completely kill the door lock circuit.

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Thank you Dave,

You happen to have a way of guiding me to which 9 pin connector to unplug? Pictures maybe? If I do this to kill the door lock circuit would I still be able to lock and unlock the doors with the key (individually)?

the 9-way connector is the one out of the door lock module. The 3x4 black box on the Tray. The big Red wire is the power for it if you would rather disconnect it from the breaker .


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And the doors will lock and unlock just fine from inside or outside. They just won't "follow" each other.