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HI, I was wondering how folks that have bought DMCs new(relatively speaking) are liking the new unit? I have been using the original and always keep a spare pump handy so WHEN they fail, I can quickly repair and get back on the road.
If the new unit fails...???
I have ordered the new unit, but want to know if folks find it reliable.
THX
:cheers:
18 pages on this for your reading pleasure:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?38...p-sender-combo!
Thx. I read thru it, but it still doesn't really answer the question of longterm reliability. 'Preciate the link tho.
I apologize, perhaps I took that thread differently. From that link, I got the impression there were some who had experienced failures and went with different pumps but overall the experience had been good, with Dana stating he's had 7 years of service on his.
I posted about that exact issue in the threadQuote:
Originally Posted by dvfr750f
We should be measuring mileage, not years.Quote:
Originally Posted by dn010
I put on up to 20,000kms per year on my car. I know this is more than some deloreans get in a decade.
That is a good point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh
Personally, all it took was reading about the struggles both you and Marc had, add the price tag, and I've decided on the Tahoe pump.
Me too. It’s my next project.Quote:
Originally Posted by dn010
For any new pump or module, I feel very strongly that the flexible lines should be nylon, PTFE or other material suitable for use with barbed fittings. Or at least the feed line since it's at 70psi on a K-jet setup. Several of us have had rubber-type EFI hoses come loose. Gates/ Napa specifically list on the Barricade datasheet that rubber lines are not to be installed on barbed fittings. Mine came loose on a 44psi EFI setup.
But it will increase the PITA factor during install, as the original barbed fitting to the hardline must be removed which takes both finesse and leverage. Finding a compatible check valve is also an issue.
Or you'd need a special purpose surgical tool that could press the new hose in to place leaving the barb installed.
Right on Josh! I think the same! I plan to drive my car x country and want to know that the new setup won't fail. Id hate to have to replace something so pricey. The old setup may not be very reliable, but I can plan for that failure. Of course, Id rather not have to worry about the issue, but I still haven't seen the end all... on the fuel pump problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh
Thanks Dan.Quote:
Originally Posted by dn010
Good point. Most whole car warranties are X years or X thousand miles, but every part I bought for any other car was stated in X years.Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh
That being said, I appreciated hearing the macro experience with this pump solution from the above quoted thread:
Although I don't drive many miles, I do drive the car almost every weekend...all year, a benefit of Florida weather. The downside is long hot summers, and lots of traffic in Central Florida. So, I do clock engine running time, half of which is during hot weather.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCH James
During my time with my fuel pump, I have been reading about the pump issues, new style and old style, and to me mechanical empathy applies, whether you opt for the old style, the new module, or an appropriate GM pump:
1) Install it properly, in a clean environment. There was one poster that said that his similar GM pump lasted just a week or two in his Blazer because of contamination.
2) Try to mitigate our characteristic fuel heating problem. Several tactics are discussed on the forum. For me, I just put some thermal shielding on the flexible supply hose where it is adjacent to the hot coolant pipe and the exhaust manifold (near the fuel filter), and the fuel filter. Plus I try to keep a full tank as much as possible ( e.g. what's takes longer to heat on the stove... A small saucepan of water, or a big stock pot of water...same principle). These have worked so far with my situation.
Cheers,
I plan to install the DMC pump this month, I've spoken to a few owners that have had it a while and seem to be pretty happy.
I dont think there is anything wrong with my current pump, but it was gotten loud when really hot.
My OE style pump gave out on a long trip on a busy interstate. Totally worth changing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Parzival
Ok maybe I'm doing it this weekend! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by mr_maxime
I thought your car was in pieces??Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_maxime
Yep. The oe style pump gave out when I was driving to see the eclipse in SC in 2017.Quote:
Originally Posted by dn010
Yea, once they get loud, they aren't long for this world.Quote:
Originally Posted by Parzival
So I have the original setup currently, and the car is in storage in NM. I ordered the new DMC setup and expect it this week.
The worry is, I plan to drive the car x country to SC. Should I stay old school( a system I know could fail but I can fix on the fly) OR should I install the new setup and hope she makes it the whole way? Hmmm:thinkin:
I'd go with new. Replacing the pump on an integrated system really isn't hard. Ive done it on my accord.
The oe style one I had was installed by dmcmw in 2015 and lasted 2 years. From what I was told, it seemed like hot fuel was a common killer for the oe style pump. You might be able to fix it on the go but just run into problems again anyways.
I have had mine for about a year and probably 3000 miles on it and I think it works great. Granted the fuel gauge doesn’t exactly register at 100% full it’s just under the full mark but it’s much more accurate than the original sending unit. As other people probably have mentioned I would highly recommend not using the rubber fuel lines that come with the kit and using a nylon fuel line instead so you don’t have the shrink problem at the rubber lines.
Just got home with a new DMC fuel pump/ sender unit thanks to DMCFL. I sliced open the box and read the installation instruction, so its gonna be a fun weekend!