Went into my valley this weekend

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05-01-2012, 11:44 AM
Cory W

4 Attachment(s)

Went into my valley this weekend

I usually don't talk much about work I do on my car. Today I feel chatty.

Sunday I tore into my valley, unsure of what I would find. I had no idea if or when the manifold has ever been off the car. Turns out it wasn't as bad as some we've seen here.
Attachment 10016

There was coolant below the large pipe from water pump to Y pipe, with evidence of seepage. That would explain the faint coolant smell when the car was running and you were standing behind the car. Cool. I have managed to pick up most of the coolant that has been seeping from the loosened or freed connections since I unbolted things. (You have to love Dollar Store turkey basters to quickly and easily suck it out of the channels.) What you see here has accumulated since Sunday night; these were taken about an hour before I wrote this.

No rodents, but it looks like something used to call the engine home. Looks like some sort of food pellet, nothing we have around here. May have come from Montana.
Attachment 10017

Everything came off fairly easy. I use a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF because I like the result, but didn't have to along the way. Surprising (or, someone was in there shortly before I got the car) Of course, there's always the person who doesn't get the memo....

Attachment 10018

Yes, you can see a Y pipe bolt snapped pretty much flush at the head. Frak. At least it let me move the coolant pipe below the Y pipe freely. So, keeping my cool about things, and not in a major hurry when my block is on the line, I have already researched the forum, developed a plan of action, and have been liberally soaking the bolt with my Acetone/ATF mix.
This morning, I took a very fine electronic screwdriver and dug out the sediment between the pipe and broken bolt. It's suspected (and I do hope so) that the bolt could be frozen in the Y pipe and the block could be ok. I know this is a best-case scenario, but I'm prepared and ready. I plan on going further with it tonight, after a bit more soaking.

When the valley is properly cleaned, I'll finish the tune up and do a couple other things:
-Valve lash check and adjustment
-New valve cover gaskets
-Spark plugs, wires (I have the aftermarket ones, and they look like they'll block the water!), distributor cap, rotor, and coil.
-New O2 sensor
-Remove and thoroughly clean alternator and all mounting points
-Check out my A/C idler pulley bearings

There's a couple of other things, but I think you get the idea.

I have no plan to paint or coat my valley. I'm hearing too many stories of it working like the epoxy on the frames. Now that I've been there, I'm not worried about going in every few years or so to inspect.

I'll shoot another pic or two when it's back together. I'm not in a major hurry, and this is my busy season, so I work on it when I have time.

Since I was taking pictures, because I've just seen others discuss these lately, here's a shot of my black anodized coolant bottle. I have no idea where it came from, as it was already on the car.
Attachment 10019
05-01-2012, 12:36 PM
jawn101

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cory W

Since I was taking pictures, because I've just seen others discuss these lately, here's a shot of my black anodized coolant bottle. I have no idea where it came from, as it was already on the car.
Attachment 10019

Looks pretty good Cory! Good luck with that bolt.

I have that exact same black bottle, and I know others do too. I don't really know where they came from though. Did the dealers install them as recall items for the original plastic?
05-01-2012, 01:22 PM
tjd

Quote:

Originally Posted by jawn101

Looks pretty good Cory! Good luck with that bolt.

I have that exact same black bottle, and I know others do too. I don't really know where they came from though. Did the dealers install them as recall items for the original plastic?

That looks like a replacement that was sold by DeLorean One in the early 90's.
05-03-2012, 12:35 PM
jamesrguk

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cory W

Yes, you can see a Y pipe bolt snapped pretty much flush at the head. Frak. At least it let me move the coolant pipe below the Y pipe freely....Attachment 10019

I had the same problem, both the back studs snapped off flush with the manifold.

The route I went down was as follows...

I carefully flattened off the top of the broken studs, centre punched them, drilled and then tapped the original stud.
Then I screwed in 2 nickel plated bolts (See 1st Pic) and cut their heads off leaving 2 studs fixed in place.

New studs in place:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/james.g...uds_fitted.jpg

Y-Pipe refitted with Nyloc nuts, washers and thick grease:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/james.g...ds_fitted2.jpg

I actually thought this was a better solution as it means that the well greased nut/washer on the top holding the Y pipe down is away from the any future coolant spills making seizure less likely.

Just my 2p

James
05-03-2012, 07:16 PM
Bitsyncmaster

Dont't you need to tilt the Y pipe to get it in or out? With studs, that would be hard to do.
05-03-2012, 07:18 PM
82DMC12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster

Dont't you need to tilt the Y pipe to get it in or out? With studs, that would be hard to do.

My thoughts exactly. You have to rotate it, then tilt.
05-03-2012, 09:07 PM
DMCMW Dave

True - in a fit of engineering wisdom they made the Y-Pipe thismuch wider than the space between the heads.

I don't think the studs are really a solution, although you won't find out why for another 25 years or so.
05-04-2012, 07:16 AM
jamesrguk

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster

Dont't you need to tilt the Y pipe to get it in or out? With studs, that would be hard to do.

Well I've done it already and didn't have any problems? it's there, you can see it, no photoshop honest :shyshy:

I can understand that if you were to change the front 2 to studs as well then maybe you'd have an issue. Seeing as it was only the rear ones that snapped (which I think is normally the case) I only replaced the rear bolts with studs.

J
05-04-2012, 07:22 AM
82DMC12

What we are saying is that now you will have to extract at least one stud from the engine next time you need to remove the y-pipe. You wont be able to just take the nuts off and pull it out because the studs are actually in the way now, preventing you from rotating the pipe.
05-04-2012, 07:32 AM
jamesrguk

Quote:

Originally Posted by 82DMC12

What we are saying is that now you will have to extract at least one stud from the engine next time you need to remove the y-pipe. You wont be able to just take the nuts off and pull it out because the studs are actually in the way now, preventing you from rotating the pipe.

Well I installed the studs before I put the Y pipe on, see 1st picture?

Whats probably made that possible is that the replacement studding I installed was a guage smaller than the original bolts allowing a little sideways movement during the installation of the Y pipe.

J
05-04-2012, 08:50 AM
82DMC12

Ok that may be the difference. I do like the idea by the way, I just know it's a tight fit in there.

Andy
05-04-2012, 10:12 AM
Spittybug

I wonder if a slight grinding on either side of the Y pipe is doable? I don't know what the thickness is there, but IIRC, it is very close to fitting in. If the width of his studs makes a difference, a slight shave off the shoulders probably would too.
05-04-2012, 10:45 AM
Nicholas R

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spittybug

I wonder if a slight grinding on either side of the Y pipe is doable? I don't know what the thickness is there, but IIRC, it is very close to fitting in. If the width of his studs makes a difference, a slight shave off the shoulders probably would too.

I was thinking the same thing. It's such a close fit that if you shaved each side just a tiny bit, I'll bet it would be possible.