Genius! That did it! I disconnected the remote box from the DLM, and then it worked properly! I then reconnected the remote and now it works with the remote as well!
Thanks so much Dave!
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A side thought-
I'm thinking, in the last vid, if the jumper wires were removed, it would act the same -- Disconnecting the switches ("sensors") and grounding their harness connectors does nothing but remove the ground source used as input to the module.
Glad it's working in any case!
Jumping back on this thread as the locks started cycling again. If I disconnect the wireless receiver from the lock ECU, then power locks function normally (like stock) on both sides but without remote functionality obviously.
Does this sound like the receiver plugged into the ECU might be defective? I'm wondering if is starting to fail entirely which explains why it worked after resetting previously, but now it won't. I wouldn't expect them to wear out over time, but I imagine it could happen.
The ECU/DLM seems to be functional without the receiver attached. I have a DMCH Door Lock Module I bought and installed in 2012 that it is connected to. I suppose that the issue could be in either of them.
Good call out. The voltage seems fine, I keep it on a battery tender, but I can certainly verify the voltage is a strong 12v.
Hopefully my final follow up on this. Last night I found the remote receiver was attached to a bad ground. Couldn't find it with the multimeter but bought a 12v single wire light for $8 that found it right away.
Painful lesson about the proper way to verify ground connections. I've heard "check your grounds" a lot on this forum, should have known better.
The bad ground was caused by a tap connector I received with my door popper kit. After all this trouble I can assure you I won't be using tap connectors any longer! I knew better when I installed it, but did it anyway.