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FWIW- It seems odd to me that the voltage droped over time, especially since the RPMs rasied too.

...not sure how accurate your gauge is, but it should be reading around 14.2V instead of 13V after...

That is for both. The plug with Black and Light Green with Green tracer is not used on manuals, if present.

The Wide Open Switch wires are: Black and Light Green.
The Idle Speed Switch wires are: Black and Black with Light Green tracer.
The Kick Down Switch wires are: Black and Light Green with Green...

...a 2022 DaLeonardo.

:deviltail:

+1

And if you can find no leaks, suspect a seal bypassing internally...

Maybe, hit the leak with baby powders to chase it back to the source...

YW!
Yeah, they can act odd if not installed to specs, but it seems it would be more consistent anyway....Unless the dash tach is way more sensitive than the Actron, I wouldn't think the trigger...

I'm leaning toward the W/S or tach as well.
Maybe coincidence, but it getting worse after having the binnacle off and other work might indicate a bad connection.

Anyway, if you don't find...

Curious as to what color the spliced harness wire was.

The black and purple wires being in the same slot is normal.

The left dash indicator, front indicator and rear indicator bulbs are tied together, directly - If one burns, they all should.

If...

A lot of D owners use an ACTRON Tach Dwell Voltmeter Model CP7605 to set their dwell. (Another for $22.99 total, used.) Like many others, you simply set the switch to "RPM", connect the Black clip...

They may punish you for doubling the fuse's rate... :deviltail:

$.03

Reversing the polarity on the coil will not hurt it, but it will reduce the spark. And, if the coil is causing the needle to jump, you should be able to hear the engine miss.

With all of...

You might try connecting a handheld tach and see if it also jumps -- Could be a loose connection feeding the dash tach (but no problem to the distributor).

I'd suggest (re)checking the pulse ratios at D:04:15, 5 in the WSM.

P.S. Congrats!

:thumbup: Chevy orange.

Yep.
(As David reminded me...Power from the AC switch goes through the cycle switch first....)

+1

".764 Liters" (for Circuit). WSM, A:05:01

???
I'm not sure why you replied with this -- I was talking about the cylinders firing, not the plugs.
I was trying to straighten out the "left"-"right" thing...

+1!

...that or a break a...

If a plug wire is going to the wrong cylinder, that cylinder (and the cylinder the wire is supposed to go to) will fire at the wrong time, if at all.

Mine was binding like Dave's when I got the car.
But years later, it was the rod joints got too sloppy. Seems I had to adjust it a tiny bit longer so it would push the butterfly/lever shut, instead...

That would kill the two cylinders and at least 1/3 of your power, probably more...should of ran like dodo.

+1

A side thought-
I'm thinking, in the last vid, if the jumper wires were removed, it would act the same -- Disconnecting the switches ("sensors") and grounding their harness connectors does...

For the first part- When it is <15°C, the dwell should be 50-60° = 25-30° on 8-cyl scale, steady. Your's is 3° below the minimum. Given that, 1. and 2. above makes sense. And for 3., it is dead on...

I would shoot the cylinder head next to the gauge sending unit and compare it to the gauge's reading.

Shooting the radiator's inlet and outlet can tell you a lot.
IIRC, 1669 showed a 22°F drop....

What's bugging me here is that the thermostat shouldn't let the temp drop below 195° F, and, 220°F is acceptable.
Not to mention that the gauges are not known for accuracy.

But I have to agree...