What's a reasonable price for a replacement engine?

[Morpheus]

I think the more important question is: Why are NOS crate motors so goddamned expensive? Is the customers' desire to keep their car stock or original reason enough to command such a premium? $10K for a 34 year old PRV is absolute lunacy.

[DMCVegas]

I think the more important question is: Why are NOS crate motors so goddamned expensive? Is the customers' desire to keep their car stock or original reason enough to command such a premium? $10K for a 34 year old PRV is absolute lunacy.

How often do you actually need one though? Even with Farrar's engine, it could probably be rebuild with a new core block and most of the internal parts cheaper than that. Unless you had massive, widespread, catastrophic damage like a thrown rod on top of an overheated engine, or it was corroded from the inside out from a long-term battery charger.

I also imagine this is probably strategic for Stage II & III Engine sales, but most importantly, Where else you gonna get 0-mile PRV crate engines?

[louielouie2000]

To me, a 3.0 seems the most viable solution for Farrar from a cost & ease of procurement perspective. Since he's Team Carb, I'm not sure if he is interested in delving into EFI, though.

Does anyone know if the Eagle 3.0 engines have the same block rot issues? I'm assuming they don't, since they were originally installed in cars with solid hoods which kept water away from their engine blocks. Also, what's the current status of parts availability for those engines? I'd have to imagine it might be tough to come by some consumables this day and age; or that long-term, it might become a real issue.

[Morpheus]

How often do you actually need one though? Even with Farrar's engine, it could probably be rebuild with a new core block and most of the internal parts cheaper than that. Unless you had massive, widespread, catastrophic damage like a thrown rod on top of an overheated engine, or it was corroded from the inside out from a long-term battery charger.

I also imagine this is probably strategic for Stage II & III Engine sales, but most importantly, Where else you gonna get 0-mile PRV crate engines?

That's precisely my point. They are rarely needed, and I'm sure they would move more inventory if, on the occasion a replacement is required, the pricing was a little more reasonable.

A 0-mile PRV sitting on a shelf for 30 years is not a goldmine, in the same vein as a DeLorean stored in a barn for 30 years isn't a goldmine. It is most certainly going to require a complete teardown and rebuild, just like the 0-mile engine would.

I get the whole "scarcity" and "supply and demand" thing, but doesn't Houston have hundreds of these engines? Doesn't seem all that scarce to me.

[Morpheus]

Does anyone know if the Eagle 3.0 engines have the same block rot issues? I'm assuming they don't, since they were originally installed in cars with solid hoods which kept water away from their engine blocks.

It's not so much the water (rain or otherwise) that causes block rot, it's the leaky coolant hoses running through the valley. Coolant leaks/is corrosive and rot happens.

Alternatively, I have seen instances where chunks of the block are prone to just break away in the valley area; i'm not sure if block rot is the culprit in that case, or if it's just a weakness in the PRV's design.

[Delorean Industries]

3.0 blocks do not have the same issues as the earlier 2.7/2.8 versions. The allow content changed in mid 1984 and again in sept/oct of 1986 where it remained the same until the end of PRV production.

3.0 liners are not interchangeable with 2.8 units and vice versa. We manufacture 2.8 liners with a lower bore cup that matches the 3.0 block. Making it possible to make a odd fire engine work within the 3.0 block or run an even fire crank with the 2.8 displacement and custom liners with bushed 3.0 rods to fit the 2.8 version.

[Delorean Industries]

Stock configuration odd fire engines are not that expensive. We have worked to drop our cost of producing a unit superior to even a factory NOS perfect condition engine considerably. Available on our site currently under the factory spec option.

[DMCVegas]

It's not so much the water (rain or otherwise) that causes block rot, it's the leaky coolant hoses running through the valley. Coolant leaks/is corrosive and rot happens.

Alternatively, I have seen instances where chunks of the block are prone to just break away in the valley area; i'm not sure if block rot is the culprit in that case, or if it's just a weakness in the PRV's design.

Looking at this thread with pictures of the 3.0L's intake manifold removed, it would seem that there is still this possibility of block rot.

The coolant is definitely a problem, but I think it's also compounded by dead, rotting leaves also turns acidic against the aluminum. The weakness in the design are those pits that cannot drain. They're necessary to cut down on engine weight and to strengthen the block assembly, but it doesn't let anything drain off.

[DMCVegas]

3.0 blocks do not have the same issues as the earlier 2.7/2.8 versions. The allow content changed in mid 1984 and again in sept/oct of 1986 where it remained the same until the end of PRV production.

3.0 liners are not interchangeable with 2.8 units and vice versa. We manufacture 2.8 liners with a lower bore cup that matches the 3.0 block. Making it possible to make a odd fire engine work within the 3.0 block or run an even fire crank with the 2.8 displacement and custom liners with bushed 3.0 rods to fit the 2.8 version.

But that's just the block though, correct? You're still running 2.8 internals like the crank, cams, and the 2.8 Cylinder Heads as well, right?

[dn010]

Also, what's the current status of parts availability for those engines? I'd have to imagine it might be tough to come by some consumables this day and age; or that long-term, it might become a real issue.

I'm not sure if it is the same with the 3.0, but at least on the B280F things like gaskets and timing chains are easy to come by and aren't expensive at all. When you get into wear items like bearings and timing chain guides, that's where it becomes more expensive and more difficult to find.

Anytime I've gotten a used engine, the first thing to do is drop the pan and see what you're dealing with inside - in this case you'd also have to drop the lower crankcase. Even a good running engine sometimes has internal issues that should be corrected before install unless you plan on pulling the engine again and again.