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Thread: NLA parts tracker

  1. #41
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2014

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    Quote Originally Posted by kajcienski View Post
    Everyone needs one:
    Ski Rack
    Got plenty!
    Rob

  2. #42
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by DPI JOSH View Post
    CV joints are available. No reason to buy used unless you want complete refurbished assemblies.

    http://www.deloreanindustries.com/cv-joint/
    Got those too!
    Rob

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by eagle-co94 View Post
    Not that I'm aware of. DMCH doesn't seem motivated to reproduce many parts yet so they must have stock to build an undisclosed # of cars or to sell them at a steep profit to those in need.
    Nada.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew View Post
    DMCH is now selling reproduction stock shift knobs PN 101284 for $54.63...glad I didn't pay $200 for a used one :-)
    Got some knobs too.

  5. #45
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by outatym2001 View Post
    Donít forget part number 100169 Intermediate Drive Shaft.
    Iím specifically talking about the Universal Joint at each end of the Drive Shaft.
    In November 2013 I had to buy good used Universal Joints from DeLorean Motor Company Northwest since there are no new ones available. Please somebody make some new Universal Joints as I hate the ones I have now.



    The turn signal and wiper control stalks are currently available as I picked up on January 26, 2016 at DMC Northwest an unused assembly still in a plastic bag for $131.19. It was an expensive mistake on my part for breaking the very important black plastic and i decided to replace the entire assembly. I donated my original assembly to the pile of used parts collecting at DMC NW.
    We have NOS and rebuilt's.

  6. #46
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2014

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    We have many if not all of the parts mentioned here and many other DMCH NLA's either new, used, or reconditioned but please don't ask that they be put on our website just yet as my priorities need to be elsewhere at this point in time. If anyone is really curious about a rare or unavailable part all they need to do is call, text, PM, or email me and I'll be happy to provide info.
    Rob Grady

  7. #47
    Ryan > Ruben Ryan King's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas R View Post
    I actually use the oversized CV joint boots and large boot flanges sold by these guys for my boots. Finally no more torn boots. The flanges also allow the joints to operate at an even larger angle if necessary.
    Link to the ones you bought??? I have bought and replaced new boots for my axels over 3 times now. They ALWAYS rip. So I gave up. I must know your secret.
    Living The Dream Since 2005 - VIN#3997

  8. #48
    LS1 DMC Nicholas R's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Orlando, Florida

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan King View Post
    Link to the ones you bought??? I have bought and replaced new boots for my axels over 3 times now. They ALWAYS rip. So I gave up. I must know your secret.
    I agree, the original boots are terrible. Even before my engine swap, mine were always tearing. I replaced my boots about 2 years ago, and within 6 months, 2 had torn. Totally unacceptable. At that point I was done with using original boots and started searching for other options.

    The first picture is my stock boots, which tore shortly after. I bought the boots in the middle picture and never looked back. The picture on the right is the new boots installed.
    1 Old.jpg2 Boots.jpg3 New.jpg

    These guys take CV joint boots pretty seriously since loosing a boot on a dune buggy or rock crawler, can mean the quick destruction of a CV joint. They have several different options, including a double boot system (inner boot and outer boot) for extreme protection.

    The options are:
    Conical Boots: http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac501111b-930.html
    Tapered Boots.jpg
    If I still had the stock boot flanges, I'd be using these. The extra ridges ensure that the rubber never exceeds the elastic range when the joint pivots and rotates. The stock boots can be under a lot of stress when fully the joint is at its extreme angle.

    Barrel Shaped Boots:http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac501111be-930.html
    Barrel Boots.jpg
    Not sure if there are any advantages to these, but it seems like these would only be advantageous if you were rarely angling the joint. I'd take the conical boots over these.

    Large boot: http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac501112b-930.html
    Large Flange Boot.jpg
    This is what I have now. Very robust. You do however have to change your boot flanges over to the large boot flange. (below)

    Large Flange: http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac501112f-930.html
    Large Flange.jpg
    These are required to use the large boots. Since the boots go over the bolts, you have to install the shaft, then slide the boot onto the flange. You also dont need the little crescent moon shaped washers with these flanges because the material is 3 or 4 times the thickness. The main advantage of these is that because of how they're designed, they allow the ball bearings to safely travel a bit further, meaning that axles can safely operate at a larger angle than the stock flanges. This was one of my biggest considerations for using them. These flanges are machined for 3/8-24 bolts instead of M10 bolts, so it is necessary to run a 10.5mm or 11mm drillbit through them to be sure the M10 bolts clear.

    Double boot: http://www.pacificcustoms.com/ac501114f-930.html
    Double Boot.jpg
    Not sure why we would ever need these, but they're still cool. Need a flange that has an attachment for both boots.

    Hope this helps! Here's to no more torn boots!
    Last edited by Nicholas R; 02-05-2016 at 03:01 AM.

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Is this something that's actually in place?

    I only ask because it sounds like a good idea and I have a pile of my own used parts that could be helpful to someone, but only if they don't get thrown out. Do other vendors or clubs or pockets of owners do this?

    I wouldn't want to see it turn into a thing where the holder of the parts is trying to make money off of it, but instead has this kind of used parts pile for any owners that are in a bind and just need to get their car going again and not perfect or brand new looking in that problem area.
    Many years ago the then Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club president Arnie Brandon recommended to me do not throw away any used parts as they may be of value some day, to some one, some where. DMC Northwest has a collection of used corroded parts from DeLoreans that have been used and abused. I'm referring to miscellaneous engine parts, metal brackets for the muffler, brake caliper pistons, old original alternators, fuel lines with the banjo fittings still attached. These parts aren't worth much today or tomorrow but some day they could be.

    Quote Originally Posted by DPI JOSH View Post
    CV joints are available. No reason to buy used unless you want complete refurbished assemblies.

    http://www.deloreanindustries.com/cv-joint/
    Josh thanks for the info regarding the Universal Joint. Back in 2013 I just blindly believed I had to buy good used instead of a new replacement universal joint.

    Quote Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc. View Post
    We have NOS and rebuilt's.
    Rob thanks for chiming in on the replacement parts. I have been getting more and more paranoid about parts scarcity.
    Mark Vanyo
    Links to DeLorean related web sites!
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?19...s-Part-I-of-II.

  10. #50
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

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    My VIN:    5003 Never placed Concourse

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    Quote Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc. View Post
    Those plates were beautiful and an almost exact match to stock dimensions but the domestic supplier went belly up! I think I can still bring some in from Europe and may do so soon.
    Rob
    I've seen some pictures of your stamped stainless ones of the day. If you could get more that were stamped like the factory ones that would be great and I'd definitely be interested in one! Plates in either stainless or aluminum are easy to come by but they're flat aside from the front lip! If I need to pay upwards of $300 for one that isn't stamped, I'll just put a sheet of stainless or aluminum in my brake and make my own!
    -----Dan B.

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