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Thread: Aftermarket headlights

  1. #21
    Senior Member mr_maxime's Avatar
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    I have an ebay kit. I installed the low beams with the bulbs they came with. Not much of an improvement. They are glass however. I am waiting to buy another pair of Kensun HIDs, so I can convert all headlights of the headlights to these with HIDs. The reason is that the HID pair uses a single H4 connectors. I want to wire it all at once.

    As was mentioned above, you will need to cut into the headlight housing bracket to make these fit. I also had to cut into the headlight itself because it was hitting something behind the headlight housing.

  2. #22
    Senior Member mluder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris4099 View Post
    I'm installing a similar set now. I don't have a good picture as I'm still installing mine. Keep in mind that you will have to modify the headlight buckets by making the hole bigger. I would also recommend getting a unit that has the DRL wiring either come out the back or via a low profile wire on the side. Some have a large socket on the side that may require you to cut yet another hole into the bucket to fit. Heat should only be an issue if you use a H4 bulb that uses a lot more power then standard (such as the 100w bulbs out there). Here's the unit I'm currently working with:
    http://www.jegs.com/i/ORACLE-Lightin...9-001/10002/-1

    A local owner has them but in green and they look good. Very bright DRLs too. Here's a quick pic of mine running while I test the heat and beam pattern:
    Attachment 39651

    I'll be making a full write up later after I get them installed and some drive time done.
    Looking forward to seeing how this turns out so you can come over and do mine...
    Have you figured out how to access the bulb element for replacement?

    Cheers
    Steven
    Cheers
    Steven Maguire
    #4456


    IT'S A TRAP!!!!!

  3. #23
    Senior Member Peripatetic's Avatar
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    image.jpgIn case anyone was curious about how the single array LEDs look. The originals were so dim it was probably dangerous to drive with so I went to the complete other end of the spectrum.
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    Fine Geek Jewelry.

    If the above post was DeLorean related it should be noted that I don't know what I'm talking about.

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  4. #24
    aka RacerX Ryan S.'s Avatar
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  5. #25
    Senior Member Gregadeth's Avatar
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    Since the Silverstars are more powerful than the stock lights, do you need to up the fuse for the headlights?

  6. #26
    One of those purists you keep hearing about. sdg3205's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregadeth View Post
    Since the Silverstars are more powerful than the stock lights, do you need to up the fuse for the headlights?
    No, but if you haven't already you should update your headlight switch to trigger a relay or buy the dmch update kit. It will save your switch.
    Dave

    Here, somewhere.


  7. #27
    LS1 DMC Nicholas R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdg3205 View Post
    No, but if you haven't already you should update your headlight switch to trigger a relay or buy the dmch update kit. It will save your switch.
    The headlights already trigger a relay though. There is a relay for both the high beams and for the low beams (relays 1 and 2). It is the running lights/side marker lights, etc. (essentially everything except the headlights) that run their power through the switch that burns out the switch right? I was always under the impression that switching these bulbs to LEDs helps prevent that and protects the original switch.

  8. #28
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas R View Post
    The headlights already trigger a relay though. There is a relay for both the high beams and for the low beams (relays 1 and 2). It is the running lights/side marker lights, etc. (essentially everything except the headlights) that run their power through the switch that burns out the switch right? I was always under the impression that switching these bulbs to LEDs helps prevent that and protects the original switch.
    I would say changing the side-markers and running bulbs to LED would vastly improve reliability on the stock light switch. Not only the current is reduced, incandescent bulbs have a very high inrush current until the filament heats up. You also drive the license plate lights, AC panel lights and binnacle bulbs through the light switch.
    Dave M vin 03572
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  9. #29
    Senior Member BABIS's Avatar
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    Adding the headlight switch relay is very easy, and can be done on the relay compartment...
    Let us reply to ambition that it is she herself that gives us a taste for solitude.

  10. #30
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    I would say changing the side-markers and running bulbs to LED would vastly improve reliability on the stock light switch. Not only the current is reduced, incandescent bulbs have a very high inrush current until the filament heats up. You also drive the license plate lights, AC panel lights and binnacle bulbs through the light switch.
    That's the advice that I followed. Although I'm using SilverStars, I have changed all exterior and door bulbs to LED, and I plan on doing the same in the dash/console. I am still running the original headlight switch, but I have changed all relays in the compartment, and cleaned or in one case, replaced the bulb holders. Aside from the increased draw problem for the incandescent bulbs, I found that they got awfully hot in the 30+ year old plastic housings.

    I try to keep my car as original as possible, but to me, LED bulbs make a lot of sense for the car.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
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