FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 64

Thread: Door strut bracket recomendations - Grady or Heninger?

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Banned
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Baton Rouge, Louisiana

    Posts:    3,047

    My VIN:    16510 and carbureted

    Club(s):   (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Door strut bracket recomendations - Grady or Heninger?

    Today I replaced my door struts and noticed the brackets have a tiny bit of play in them. Lately I have been replacing parts as they break, but I think it would be wise to replace/upgrade this part before it breaks.

    As far as I know there are two options. Heninger's retrofit kit (in attached picture) and what Grady is selling. I am not familiar with what Grady has and can't find it on his website.

    Obviously, if I do have cracked fiberglass where the stock brackets mount I can still use Heninger's kit without any problems. His product seems like a great idea, but $160 does seem a bit expensive.

    I also talked to Hervey and he doesn't sell anything like this. Does anyone have any information about the options? I seem to remember reading something like this on the old forum. Will Grady's still work with cracked fiberglass and is it cheaper?

    Heninger's bracket:
    http://deloreannewparts.com/store/page14.html
    Attached Images

  2. #2
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,408

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Forgot about this thread, but I did end up using the Heninger brackets as well. I bought and started to install the ones from DPI but due to some bizarre imperfections in my tub, I could not correct the leaning studs even with the new brackets. Byrne was a lovely gent to work with and very helpful, and the brackets are really excellent.

    A word to the wise though. Don't remove the ball studs from them. He torques them so they help the angle iron maintain rigidity. I removed one of mine just out of curiosity and ended up having a lot of flex in the bracket as a result. Byrne fixed it for me though...
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  3. #3
    Senior Member - Owner since 2003 Patrick C's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern Michigan

    Posts:    1,170

    My VIN:    1880

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DCUK)

    I just discovered my driver side mount is crooked and the fiberglass is cracked. Is everyone still pleased with Henninger's repair? I would much rather go this route than have to remove a quarter panel and re-fiberglass.
    Patrick C.
    VIN 1880

  4. #4
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,408

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick C View Post
    I just discovered my driver side mount is crooked and the fiberglass is cracked. Is everyone still pleased with Henninger's repair? I would much rather go this route than have to remove a quarter panel and re-fiberglass.
    Sorry to hear it. Seems like another one of those repairs every owner will probably end up doing eventually.

    Heninger's solution is still holding up magnificently for me.
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  5. #5
    Senior Member - Owner since 2003 Patrick C's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern Michigan

    Posts:    1,170

    My VIN:    1880

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by jawn101 View Post
    Sorry to hear it. Seems like another one of those repairs every owner will probably end up doing eventually.

    Heninger's solution is still holding up magnificently for me.
    Perfect. Just ordered the set of 2, even though my passenger side seems ok for now. I might replace it out of preventative maintenance.
    Patrick C.
    VIN 1880

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Kent, Wa

    Posts:    45

    My VIN:    2256

    I ended up going with Grady's bracket. I wanted something that wouldn't be obvious as a repair. I didn't like riveting the bracket on so I made my own bracket to replace the one inside the body tub. It may be a little over kill but at least I know these brackets aren't going anywhere and hopefully the larger surface area will distribute the weight on the fiberglass tub a little more evenly.

    000_0904.jpg

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2022

    Posts:    111

    My VIN:    7012

    Quote Originally Posted by jawn101 View Post
    Forgot about this thread, but I did end up using the Heninger brackets as well. I bought and started to install the ones from DPI but due to some bizarre imperfections in my tub, I could not correct the leaning studs even with the new brackets. Byrne was a lovely gent to work with and very helpful, and the brackets are really excellent.

    A word to the wise though. Don't remove the ball studs from them. He torques them so they help the angle iron maintain rigidity. I removed one of mine just out of curiosity and ended up having a lot of flex in the bracket as a result. Byrne fixed it for me though...
    Is the door strut retainer screwed into the L-bracket? And does the L-bracket attach to anything on the small side of it? (I see all the attachment points on the long side but it's not clear to me what the short side is doing).

    I might try to re-create something like this. I have the feeling I'll need it on my driver side in the next decade. And if it's as simple as a piece of steel with some holes, bent at the end and with the ball stud screwed or welded to it, I might actually be able to accomplish that.

    Thanks!

  8. #8
    Senior Member r00b's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  usa

    Posts:    368

    My VIN:    2245

    You could always repair the fiberglass if it's cracking, even reinforce it while you're in there. No need for that kind of stuff.

  9. #9
    DMC Timeless's Avatar
    Join Date:  Nov 2016

    Location:  SW FL

    Posts:    922

    Club(s):   (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by mike123 View Post
    I might try to re-create something like this. I have the feeling I'll need it on my driver side in the next decade. And if it's as simple as a piece of steel with some holes, bent at the end and with the ball stud screwed or welded to it, I might actually be able to accomplish that.

    Thanks!
    Yep, simple plate. Honestly, 3M panel bond is SO strong I doubt bolts/screws are 100% necessary - it's added insurance.
    ~LXA~
    Dunmurry | Stuttgart | Leipzig | Munich | Tochigi | Fremont | Bratislava | Sindelfingen | Kansas City | Oakville | Coventry

  10. #10
    Senior Member - Owner since 2003 Patrick C's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern Michigan

    Posts:    1,170

    My VIN:    1880

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by mike123 View Post
    Is the door strut retainer screwed into the L-bracket? And does the L-bracket attach to anything on the small side of it? (I see all the attachment points on the long side but it's not clear to me what the short side is doing).

    I might try to re-create something like this. I have the feeling I'll need it on my driver side in the next decade. And if it's as simple as a piece of steel with some holes, bent at the end and with the ball stud screwed or welded to it, I might actually be able to accomplish that.

    Thanks!
    Byrne sold two different types of brackets. The original style kept the ball stud at a similar angle to the stock setup. I have this style installed. The later ?Blue Sky? system had the ball stud differently.


    Patrick C.
    VIN 1880

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •