Door strut bracket recomendations - Grady or Heninger?

[Chris 16409]

I think when I got my brackets they were made out of aluminum. The installation is very easy. Steve, I have not noticed any leaking since I've installed the brackets.

[sean]

I think when I got my brackets they were made out of aluminum. The installation is very easy. Steve, I have not noticed any leaking since I've installed the brackets.

You apply plenty of RTV?

[axh174]

Both of my original strut brackets were bending, the driver's side especially so. I was familiar with both Grady's larger reinforced bracket and also the Heninger solution. I opted for Grady's because I like to get a stock look if possible. I haven't had any problems with them after getting them installed and I love how beefy they are.

I've been told (and have seen pictures that illustrate this) that you can replace your original brackets with the Grady brackets without having to remove the rear quarter panels. In my case, I have an earlier VIN that had the rear holes in the fiberglass body for "air flow" that needed to be filled in so they were coming off anyway.

So yes, a little involved, but the results are nice, stock, and reliable. Heninger's solution, from what I've seen, is elegant and provides just as much support. Though it may cost a little bit more, I think you'll end up recouping the cost in reduced down-time. It sounds like that might be a better solution for you.



*ALERT! Rambling below!*

If you go with Grady's brackets, here are a few things to keep in mind:

1) The T-Panel needs to come off. (this provided excellent opportunity for me to inspect my roof box and preemptively bolt it down should it ever decide it wants to come loose.)

2) The original brackets exist behind the fiberglass infill panels that run along the upper door track (where the strut rests when the door is closed) and Grady's will reside here as well. Getting the infills out wasn't too bad. I cut around the RTV and then used a large flat head to gently break it free from the body. But that also means you need to get some good glue/epoxy to put the infill panels back in. You'll want to chip away all the old epoxy that was originally on them before applying the new. (not too difficult with a even just a flat head screwdriver and hammer, but better with a chisel)

3) Make sure you have a Dremel or similar rotary tool on hand. The bracket has a nut that is welded to the back of it and there is a hole in the fiberglass body for this nut to slip into. The larger Grady brackets I received had huge weld spots for the nuts and the existing holes in the fiberglass body could not accommodate them. If the bracket doesn't fit in snug then the infill panel won't go back in correctly and things will look wonky. So using the Dremel, I expanded the holes to accept the new brackets.

4) You're going to need a pop-rivet tool that can handle 1/4" pop-rivets. These can be a little difficult to come by. The one I used was from Amazon:

Astro-Pneumatic 1/4" Heavy-Duty Riveter

Lots of length so those 1/4" will pop without much effort. It's a bigger tool, but still plenty of room in the door area to use it. As a bonus, it has a bottle to catch your shanks! =) Also came in handy when replacing my door roof weatherstripping.

Here's one of the sources I used for photos and information on the task:

1561project.com

I'll stop now, but if you need any photos or have further questions, don't hesitate to ask. =)

[stevedmc]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I think I am going to go with Heninger's brackets. While it does cost more, I am lazy and want something that works better than stock.

Grady's is better than stock but in my opinion it sounds like too much work. I don't mind deviating from stock and I like the idea of a newly designed part. Now I just need to wait until pay day to order the parts.

[BTTF-1]

You will be pleased.

Like I said I would use this after market kit in a Delorean minute. Mine is solid carbon steel. The parts are meaty. Grady's in my opinion is the same part just slightly improved "Thicker metal". You still have the issue of poor design with the surrounding fiberglass. . Fix this only once.

I took a major chance being one of the first. It really is a royal pain not having the ability to enter or leave the D.

Wrench out the old ball tip part thingie and you are ready to go.

Your alignment doesn't have to be a 100 percent dead on.

I have made it a mission to buy aftermarket improved parts manufactured by Delorean owners.

Ed

[stevedmc]

YEAH, I just placed my order for Heninger's part. I'm excited to actually replace something before it breaks.

[stevedmc]

I received my Heninger door strut brackets last week and installed them yesterday afternoon. Installation was very easy and I must say I am very pleased with the result.

[sean]

I received my Heninger door strut brackets last week and installed them yesterday afternoon. Installation was very easy and I must say I am very pleased with the result.

Nice! Got pics?

[stevedmc]

Nice! Got pics?

I'll see if I can take some pictures tonight. The bracket is rock solid. As a simply test I put some fingers on the stud and started pushing/pulling. I was able to rock the car back and forth and the stud/bracket didn't come loose at all. This is one solid bracket.

[stevedmc]

Nice! Got pics?

Late, but as promised. I put a coat of Rustoleum on them today. When I finish being lazy I am going to glue the weather seals back on.