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Thread: A/C Compressor Belt swap questions

  1. #1
    Member
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    A/C Compressor Belt swap questions

    While running an errand, I started hearing some noises coming from my engine bay. Luckily, I wasn't far from my house, and was able to get home safely.
    I saw my A/C Compressor drive belt was frayed badly in one area, so I'm assuming that's what was making the noise. I have the work shop manual, and as simple
    as the instructions are, I have a few questions:

    1. I can see the two adjuster bolts fine, but the diagram doesn't show or label the tension screw or tension screw lock-nut. Any pictures or diagrams available of said parts?
    2. Am I wrong to assume I can just use any a/c drive belt from a nearby autoparts store? Recommendations?
    3. Any specialty tools needed aside from a wrench/socket-wrench?

    Thank you all in advance!

    -Fluxn83

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

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    Have a look at what might have caused it to fray also. Could have come loose, but more likely would be one of the two idler pulley bearings started to go and this caused the belt to start rubbing up against the side of the bracket (and the bracket edges are relatively sharp).

    They are here and the recommendation is to replace both at the same time.

    http://store.delorean.com/p-7731-idl...y-bearing.aspx

    This is the tensioner screw:

    http://store.delorean.com/p-7745-screw-m8.aspx

    It is deceiving looking at the overall parts diagram (#17) because it shows it pointing straight up while in reality it is more like pointing towards the engine at a 45 deg angle or so.

    The lock nut is this one (#18 ):

    http://store.delorean.com/p-6811-nut-m8.aspx

    Basically you tighten the bolt into the nut welded into the bracket and it pushes the end of the screw against the engine to push the pulley adjusting bracket away from the engine and thus tighten the belt. Once you are happy with how tight it is, you use the lock nut to keep the bolt where it is. Then you can tighten up those adjustment bolts on the bracket you would have loosened to allow the bracket to move/pivot. Once all those bolts are tight, you generally don't "need" the tensioner screw and nut also locked into position as the adjustment bolts are what should be keeping it in position.

    I don't know off hand what the cross over belt is, but there may be one listed in the resources section. It is not a fancy belt or special in any way. Get it from a vendor if you can, but a local auto place will also suffice. No special tools needed really other than sockets and wrenches, unless you need to replace the pulley bearings, then it gets a little more involved.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  3. #3
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluxn83 View Post
    While running an errand, I started hearing some noises coming from my engine bay. Luckily, I wasn't far from my house, and was able to get home safely.
    I saw my A/C Compressor drive belt was frayed badly in one area, so I'm assuming that's what was making the noise. I have the work shop manual, and as simple
    as the instructions are, I have a few questions:

    1. I can see the two adjuster bolts fine, but the diagram doesn't show or label the tension screw or tension screw lock-nut. Any pictures or diagrams available of said parts?
    2. Am I wrong to assume I can just use any a/c drive belt from a nearby autoparts store? Recommendations?
    3. Any specialty tools needed aside from a wrench/socket-wrench?

    Thank you all in advance!

    -Fluxn83
    Delorean.com parts illustrations will show what is all looks like.

    1. Loosen the the 2 M7 bolts, Back off the the LONG M8 tensioner bolt, Loosen the Jam nut first. Back the adjuster out about 1 inch and slide the assembly to the Right. Reverse the process for tightening.
    2. Take the old belt with you so they can match the length and size. There's nothing special about it.
    3. Tools: 1/4 drive ratchet with either a 11 mm deep socket or short extension with a standard socket. A 13 mm socket with long extension if you have one, otherwise just the socket works. A 13 mm wrench for the Jam nut.

    Make sure the Idler pulleys turn free and smooth. If not replace the Bearings in them. They are a common standard size that the Parts store will carry. Take one with you so they can read the bearing number. I forget what it is.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Morpheus's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Orlando, FL

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    My VIN:    Former owner of 1098

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Belt - A/C Compressor
    Gates: 9530
    Dynaflex: 17530


    Belt - Alternator
    Gates: 7495
    Dynaflex: 15195

    Go with Gates belts, they are very durable. I get mine at Napa.
    Brandon S.

    2014 Honda Civic EX
    2007 Volvo S60R


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