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Thread: Auto, 81, Grey, W/ Windshield Antenna Wanted

  1. #41
    Junior Member iOutatime's Avatar
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    Location:  St. Peters, Missouri

    Posts:    28

    DeLorean in Columbia, Maryland. Anyone nearby?

    Thank you all so much for the support and advice. I'm glad to get my friends and family's thoughts, but hearing it from owners whom have gone about acquiring their cars in different ways really sheds some light on the matter.

    I haven't been posting much to my thread, but I've been keeping my eyes and ears open to any new listings that appear on the inter-webs. I've politely introduced myself to a few sellers and explained to them that I'm a young guy and in no rush to get the car. The first car I was offered met all my original requirements, but after seeing some photos and talking with the seller (whom flips cars for a living), he had a 'ghetto' DeLorean lots of soft rust under the body, hadn't driven it in almost a year, and was asking far too much for what it would take to restore it. Next, an owner of a certain black/auto DeLorean (I don't know if I should give names for privacy reasons) message me about his car. First off, I had never seen any D look that good since Matt Farah's. It had a black interior, but the whole engine was getting replaced and has had all it's work done by DPI Josh. I feel blessed just to have him message me, even after I explained myself to him. I honestly don't care if it's a black interior car, I'm willing to put up with that for the sake of the car and a new zero mile engine! He said it will be until Spring before it's ready to drive and I haven't offered a price yet. I want to make sure that I can live up to his standards and what he has put into that car.

    Lastly, there has been a seller who is offering a fair price (compared to what I've seen so far) for a grey/auto with only 11k miles. He even has all the original paper work, owners manuals, window sticker, and newspaper articles too! I got to speak with him recently, and the story goes that his father brought it new back in '81. He, "walked into the dealership, kicked the tiers, and said he'd take it." He also owns a Mercedes and a BMW from the time as well. He, "was never really a car guy, but he took care of it and took it out every month to give it some exercise. He had passion for that car and saved every service record for it as well as newspaper clippings he'd come across." He passed away in 2014 and passed it to his son, who he and his son have no real need for as it's taking up space in the garage and would like to see it go to a good home.

    I told him I would want to come out and see the car this Spring Break (March 11-17), but he is out in Maryland. I told him I would probably fly or drive down there, but I would also prefer a seasoned veteran to scope out the car as well. He says he "had someone check the car and offer him $25k for it", but turned it down as he felt he could get more for it. Flying a round trip there and back to St. Louis is $400+ and driving by myself will be about 13 hours. I would still like to go and I don't need someone to be down there with me at the same time, but it would be nice to have an intermediate to communicate what will need to be done with the car while I'm there. He's driven it a for a bit since his dad's passing 4 years ago, so I don't think there was any fluids left in the car while it sat. The car has everything stock from what I can tell, and I know the first thing I'm gonna do is get stainless gas lines and a reservoir, but I know there are many other things that could be wrong. Both me and him seem fine with taking our time with this and he seems glad a young guy like me has so much passion for the car (even dropped a few knowledge bombs on him while on the phone lol).

    This is the car I would like to pursue at this time. I don't think its ever been cataloged online, but the VIN is 05742. Perhaps someone on here has already checked it out? If anyone knows someone is in the Maryland area, please send them my way. If anyone would like to see photos, here's an album: https://imgur.com/a/qsBHE

    Hope to hear back from someone soon and everyone have a blessed day. Finger's crossed this ones a keeper...
    Mason Fowlkes
    masonfowlkes@aol.com
    St. Peters, Missouri

  2. #42
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Sep 2011

    Location:  Middleburg Heights, OH

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    Just checking, did my email come through on your end? Hoping it didn't hit any spam filters. Good to hear an update, but I've had issues recently and it's always good to know for my own sanity.

    Interesting that the windshield VIN plate is painted black that late into production, I thought they were unpainted by the 700's from what I was told, I've never really stopped to check. I always wondered how you guys with later cars put up with the extra glare from it too. Anyone know if there's a cutoff point, or if all of production is like that?

    Although that story om the Maryland car sounds all too familiar... where have I heard it before? Caretaker passes, son takes possession, sells a few years later, thinks he can get more for it...

    Oh yeah... my car

    You're going to want to test drive. Period, don't leave anything to chance, it's an easy precaution to spot pressing problems, and will give you a great feel for how it handles too. Having a Russian tow truck driver named Vlad call you halfway across the country and say in broken English "it's smoking" is not something you want to have happen to you. I swear it took me thirty times to understand "bad gas" with his thick accent and background wind noise.

    (I was very much still on the pain killers for my wisdom teeth removal when all that happened by the way, there's a reason my specific purchase was so sudden and largely stupidly executed -- it does make for great "don't do what I did" advice though)

  3. #43
    Junior Member iOutatime's Avatar
    Join Date:  Aug 2016

    Location:  St. Peters, Missouri

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shep View Post
    Just checking, did my email come through on your end? Hoping it didn't hit any spam filters. Good to hear an update, but I've had issues recently and it's always good to know for my own sanity.

    Interesting that the windshield VIN plate is painted black that late into production, I thought they were unpainted by the 700's from what I was told, I've never really stopped to check. I always wondered how you guys with later cars put up with the extra glare from it too. Anyone know if there's a cutoff point, or if all of production is like that?

    Although that story om the Maryland car sounds all too familiar... where have I heard it before? Caretaker passes, son takes possession, sells a few years later, thinks he can get more for it...

    Oh yeah... my car

    You're going to want to test drive. Period, don't leave anything to chance, it's an easy precaution to spot pressing problems, and will give you a great feel for how it handles too. Having a Russian tow truck driver named Vlad call you halfway across the country and say in broken English "it's smoking" is not something you want to have happen to you. I swear it took me thirty times to understand "bad gas" with his thick accent and background wind noise.

    (I was very much still on the pain killers for my wisdom teeth removal when all that happened by the way, there's a reason my specific purchase was so sudden and largely stupidly executed -- it does make for great "don't do what I did" advice though)
    Hey Shep! Yup. I got your email and gave it a good look through. I appreciate the inside advice as well.

    Update about that Maryland DeLorean. The guy sent me more photos of the engine and under body I requested and the frame seems pretty good. I've added the new photos to the Imgur album here if you wanna look: https://imgur.com/a/qsBHE
    We've set a date to meet up. I've booked a flight out to visit him on March 14. Arrive at 11:20am and have a flight scheduled to leave at 5:30pm the same day. Hopefully the weather can be nice for just that one day. He says its never been out in the rain or snow and the pictures seem pretty nice.

    Big question is: What would you recommend I focus on when inspecting the car for myself? I was going to go over the things I would need to do to the car when I meet with him like LEDs, stainless gas lines, etc.., but I'm sure there are many things that would go over my head. Like checking the torsion bar or signs of leaks. And god forbid if there's a cesspool of junk sitting in the 'Valley of Death'. If anyone else can think of suggestions, PLEASE throw them out!
    Mason Fowlkes
    masonfowlkes@aol.com
    St. Peters, Missouri

  4. #44
    Senior Member OverlandMan's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rowlett, TX

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    My VIN:    5482

    Quote Originally Posted by iOutatime View Post
    , but after seeing some photos and talking with the seller (whom flips cars for a living), he had a 'ghetto' DeLorean lots of soft rust under the body,
    What do you mean "soft rust under the body"? The panels are stainless and the underbody is fiberglass. Did you mean the frame?

    Quote Originally Posted by iOutatime
    Big question is: What would you recommend I focus on when inspecting the car for myself? I was going to go over the things I would need to do to the car when I meet with him like LEDs, stainless gas lines, etc.., but I'm sure there are many things that would go over my head. Like checking the torsion bar or signs of leaks. And god forbid if there's a cesspool of junk sitting in the 'Valley of Death'. If anyone else can think of suggestions, PLEASE throw them out!
    Have you already read James Espy's book The Illustrated Buyers Guide to DeLorean Automobiles? I would recommend that as a reference on what all to look for when inspecting a car. From my experience, the following items/areas should be properly sorted:

    • fuel system - some components are pricey and the stock Bosch K-Jet system doesn't like to sit for long periods of time
    • frame rust - these cars usually rust in the same places so look for trouble before purchasing
    • trailing arm bolts - you'll want to inspect these before doing any significant driving
    • lower control arms - also need inspecting
    • electrical gremlins - aside from cooling fan recalls, make sure this area is sorted. inspect the fuse box for melting and wires for discoloration. also look for PO wire hacking
    • interior trim - the interior pieces are expensive and some NLA and/or very hard to find
    • transmission - IIR, you're looking for an auto so make sure you drive it and ensure it drives and shifts normally
    • engine - check for the usual (any kinds of smoke from the exhaust, leaks, etc.)


    That's really just a starting point. I'm sure I'm omitting some things. Read that book if you haven't already. I wouldn't worry too much about the torsion bars unless there's something obviously wrong. As for the VOD, that's going to be pretty much impossible to inspect without taking a bunch of stuff apart. You might be able to sneak a camera down in there somehow but I wouldn't be able to tell you how. For me personally, the fuel system was always my pain point (replacing components, buying special tools, adjusting dwell, starting issues, and so on).
    Jeff in Rowlett, TX

    http://dmctx.blogspot.com

  5. #45
    Senior Member
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    Location:  Middleburg Heights, OH

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    Don't go over mods with a seller. Let them think you'll keep it a time capsule and not touch a single item. This is just global major purchase advice. Cars, houses, boats, etc.

    If those fuel lines aren't stainless, find out what they are. If he says rubber, buy a set of stainless ones and bring it with you, you don't want to lose the car to a fuel fire on its maiden voyage. Just drive it to a nearby convenience store or something, park around back, do the swap. Easy peace of mind. It's not going to blow up in the first few miles. Travel a couple hundred across states though by an owner that never got it up to temp... you'd be surprised how quickly gasoline evaporates to put it that way.

    Can you check torsion bars? Usually struts fail every so often and require replacement. Torsion bars rarely fail, and when they do, they go boom. Big boom -- it's constant tension, after all. If the doors are struggling to stay open on their own, it's the struts 99 times out of 100. That's about as regular maintenance as an oil change, just less frequent, for colder climates like Ohio.

    Forgot to mention: never, EVER trust a car flipper with DeLorean anything period. They don't know shit about DeLoreans and that's how they make money. So that guy that said he had two, don't trust anything he sells, you will run into so many problems, I can't count how many friends and family get screwed by those guys. The only one I trust around here emphasizes a short-term warranty for the cars to say if something happens, you oay a deductible, they pay the rest. Personally netted about $4,000 for a Civic transmission failure across three cars through them.

    Also remember, if someone sees sentimental value in the car, you may not be able to get a close up look at the car yourself without him upping the price (which he's already warned you of -- "I think I can get higher" if I read right). If you view it from the mechanical side, might run into a price jump, be careful with how obvious you're being around it.

    But also keep in mind, if it's a low mile car, and it was taken care of properly for those miles, the issues I faced you won't. Mine sat for probably 3-5 years before coming my way, and had so many issues therein it was honestly cheaper (and safer) to gut it and start fresh with damn near everything. It was a "while you have everything apart" type of deal, which this last round at DPI is accomplishing too. I'm just glad I paid upfront when I still had a job and also did so when Josh thought it was way less work. Saving a TON on labor by a miscalculation!

  6. #46
    Junior Member iOutatime's Avatar
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    Location:  St. Peters, Missouri

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shep View Post
    Don't go over mods with a seller. Let them think you'll keep it a time capsule and not touch a single item. This is just global major purchase advice. Cars, houses, boats, etc.

    If those fuel lines aren't stainless, find out what they are. If he says rubber, buy a set of stainless ones and bring it with you, you don't want to lose the car to a fuel fire on its maiden voyage. Just drive it to a nearby convenience store or something, park around back, do the swap. Easy peace of mind. It's not going to blow up in the first few miles. Travel a couple hundred across states though by an owner that never got it up to temp... you'd be surprised how quickly gasoline evaporates to put it that way.
    He says that he or his dad have never done anything with the car besides general maintenance, so I assume they would be the stock rubber lines. I'm not driving the car home yet until the weather clears up sometime in May or June. I'll just be going down there to test drive and inspect it, but when I do drive it home, I'll definitely be sure to do the swap. I think the most I'll do with the car is drive it in the suburbs and highway if possible as a stress test.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shep View Post
    Forgot to mention: never, EVER trust a car flipper with DeLorean anything period. They don't know shit about DeLoreans and that's how they make money. So that guy that said he had two, don't trust anything he sells, you will run into so many problems, I can't count how many friends and family get screwed by those guys. The only one I trust around here emphasizes a short-term warranty for the cars to say if something happens, you oay a deductible, they pay the rest. Personally netted about $4,000 for a Civic transmission failure across three cars through them.
    The car flipper guy always seemed a little off to me. It wasn't until he sent me pictures of the car in it's current condition did I decide to look elsewhere. He never had two DeLoreans, he said this was his first and only had it for about a year. The only three sellers I've been in contact so far are him, the perfect DPI car, and this Maryland car.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shep View Post
    Also remember, if someone sees sentimental value in the car, you may not be able to get a close up look at the car yourself without him upping the price (which he's already warned you of -- "I think I can get higher" if I read right). If you view it from the mechanical side, might run into a price jump, be careful with how obvious you're being around it.

    But also keep in mind, if it's a low mile car, and it was taken care of properly for those miles, the issues I faced you won't. Mine sat for probably 3-5 years before coming my way, and had so many issues therein it was honestly cheaper (and safer) to gut it and start fresh with damn near everything. It was a "while you have everything apart" type of deal, which this last round at DPI is accomplishing too. I'm just glad I paid upfront when I still had a job and also did so when Josh thought it was way less work. Saving a TON on labor by a miscalculation!
    When he said someone came out to inspect it, they gave him an offer of $25k and he felt his $35k offer was fair. While talking to him on the phone and explaining my position from where I stand, I mentioned preferring it around $30k as to upkeep the car from where it currently stands and even possibly use that money to transport it across states. He didn't say no to the idea... but he also didn't acknowledge it. Hopefully I've planted the seed

    When I go to meet him, I'll be sure not to mention mods or upgrades. Hell, in a perfect world, I would like to keep everything as a time capsule. He even has all that paperwork so why not pitch it as keeping the car in mint condition. I just need to be able to hold a conversation with him when around the car and I don't know what to bring up. I could probably ask him again about his dad and the history of the car, but I don't want him getting sentimental over it. I could just go out there have fun and be casual, but I don't want him to think I'm just some kid wasting his time. I'm trying to figure out that right balance of kindness and positivity with seriousness and professionalism.

    I want to leave him feeling as impressed as you did Shep when you first replied to my post, knowing that I have my head and heart in the right place..
    Mason Fowlkes
    masonfowlkes@aol.com
    St. Peters, Missouri

  7. #47
    Junior Member iOutatime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverlandMan View Post
    What do you mean "soft rust under the body"? The panels are stainless and the underbody is fiberglass. Did you mean the frame?
    Yes, I was referring to the frame. My apologies.

    Quote Originally Posted by OverlandMan View Post
    Have you already read James Espy's book The Illustrated Buyers Guide to DeLorean Automobiles? I would recommend that as a reference on what all to look for when inspecting a car. From my experience, the following items/areas should be properly sorted:

    • fuel system - some components are pricey and the stock Bosch K-Jet system doesn't like to sit for long periods of time
    • frame rust - these cars usually rust in the same places so look for trouble before purchasing
    • trailing arm bolts - you'll want to inspect these before doing any significant driving
    • lower control arms - also need inspecting
    • electrical gremlins - aside from cooling fan recalls, make sure this area is sorted. inspect the fuse box for melting and wires for discoloration. also look for PO wire hacking
    • interior trim - the interior pieces are expensive and some NLA and/or very hard to find
    • transmission - IIR, you're looking for an auto so make sure you drive it and ensure it drives and shifts normally
    • engine - check for the usual (any kinds of smoke from the exhaust, leaks, etc.)


    That's really just a starting point. I'm sure I'm omitting some things. Read that book if you haven't already. I wouldn't worry too much about the torsion bars unless there's something obviously wrong. As for the VOD, that's going to be pretty much impossible to inspect without taking a bunch of stuff apart. You might be able to sneak a camera down in there somehow but I wouldn't be able to tell you how. For me personally, the fuel system was always my pain point (replacing components, buying special tools, adjusting dwell, starting issues, and so on).
    I have read a good portion of the book while I was up at DMC MW. I should have brought a copy while up there, but I've been meaning to do it for awhile now. Nows a good a time as any, so it's off to Amazon I go!

    In the meantime, would you mind elaborating on some of those points? Do you have any photos, videos or references I could look for online? I've a very visual person, so if I know what to look for, I'll keep my eyes peeled.
    Mason Fowlkes
    masonfowlkes@aol.com
    St. Peters, Missouri

  8. #48
    Senior Member OverlandMan's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Rowlett, TX

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    Quote Originally Posted by iOutatime View Post
    Yes, I was referring to the frame. My apologies.

    I have read a good portion of the book while I was up at DMC MW. I should have brought a copy while up there, but I've been meaning to do it for awhile now. Nows a good a time as any, so it's off to Amazon I go!

    In the meantime, would you mind elaborating on some of those points? Do you have any photos, videos or references I could look for online? I've a very visual person, so if I know what to look for, I'll keep my eyes peeled.
    Here's additional details to the best of my knowledge & experience:

    • fuel system - if your prospective car has not been modified and is running the stock Bosch K-Jetronic fuel system, the first thing I would do is get a service manual. https://store.delorean.com/p-9201-workshop-manual.aspx In here, you're going to find details and procedures on how to work on the entire car including the fuel system. The fuel system in these cars uses a continuous flow mechanical injection system, which is not EFI like modern fuel injection. There are many components to the system which are necessary to perform specific functions (ie: cold starting, holding rest pressure, adjusting mixture during warm-up, etc.). The system also uses relatively high pressure so it is extremely important to ensure all components are leak-free. If the car still has its original fuel lines installed, this should be addressed immediately for safety sake. I had an minor engine fire and can speak first hand to this topic. This fuel system does not like to sit and was never designed with Ethanol in mind. If the car has been sitting for any significant period of time, you should not attempt to start the car prior to taking some things apart and servicing/replacing where needed. If a mixture adjustment is necessary, a special tool called a dwell meter is required. Any time you undo a connection, it is necessary to replace the copper crush washers before reconnecting. Finally, some of the fuel system components are not cheap. Here are some examples: fuel distributor $400-$500, Warm-up-regulator $200+, Fuel line set $300, DMCH fuel pump & sender $400+, and so on. I put over $2k into my fuel system. There's plenty of information on all of these topics here on this forum if you search around.
    • frame rust - my car was/is rust free on the frame so I never had to deal with this but from the pics and stories I've seen, the most common rust point is the engine cradle area, specifically internally where the tow hooks are welded.
    • trailing arm bolts (TABs) - the original TABs will bend and eventually break over time with use. These are on the rear suspension where the trailing arm attaches to the frame. You can't really inspect these without taking them off. This is just one of those jobs you need to prepare yourself for.
    • lower control arms (LCAs) - the original LCAs are made from thin-ish steel, which can bend and break over time and use. You can inspect these for damage pretty easily by looking under the front of the car on both sides.
    • electrical gremlins - ever heard of "Lucas"? They're a British automotive electrics manufacturer responsible for many of the switches, wires, breakers, and controls in our cars. They're not exactly known for their reliability. In addition, the cooling fan system was a factory recall, which many owners have since improved upon the recall. You can inspect the relays behind the passenger seat to see if this has been addressed.
    • interior trim - the insides of our cars are very special and most if not all of the trim pieces are not being reproduced. As a result, if anything is sub-par on the prospective car inside, you'll have to hunt down used trim pieces. Occasionally someone makes a run of repro trim parts. Some of the more expensive trim parts include the binnacle $400-$500, reproduction molded carpet set $800, & seat covers $700.
    • transmission - I have an automatic and have not had any issues, yet; however, my car has not seen many miles in the past few years due to repairs. Based on context clues from this site and other resources, it would seem the auto transmission is a bit more fragile than the manual-shift gearbox. I believe the most common failure is the shift computer governor, which you can read more about here: http://support.delorean.com/kb/a69/a...-shifting.aspx
    • engine - nothing really specific to the DeLorean here except maybe noting the odd-fire configuration being outside the norm. White smoke means coolant in the combustion chamber. Blue smoke means its burning oil in the combustion chamber. Black smoke and running like crap means its running too rich. These aluminum PRV engines do have occasional issues with block rot on the top of the block in the VOD. The symptoms are going to be losing oil through the rot hole(s). Depending on the severity, the VOD may eventually spill over and onto the ground below. Coolant buildup in this area is relatively common over time and not a huge concern unless there is a significant leak. Most owners clean their VODs one or more times during their stewardship.


    Again, do a search here on any or all of these topics and you'll find pics and additional information to assist you with your pre-purchase inspection. If you have another owner close by, I would recommend buying he/she some beer and food and taking them along to help out. If you were in the Dallas area, I would help you in-person.

    Buy that book and a service manual if you're serious about buying one of these cars.
    Jeff in Rowlett, TX

    http://dmctx.blogspot.com

  9. #49
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    Location:  Middleburg Heights, OH

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    Adding to points above (all very good ones by the way!)

    Automatic transmission: I know DPI sells a new reproduction transmission governor, typically a failure of it would make it shift very strangely. If you see RPM's not at all match speed in a very strange manner (as an example, redline at 2 MPH dropping to idle at 5 MPH from a stop light), transmission reauires a rebuild and valve body usually also needs work. I say this with two cars' worth of experience in failures, the second of which is my DeLorean. (We tried to avoid cleaning the valve body at the time as the weather was amazing and I was horribly impatient. Still worth it.) It feels like what you would expect to see if you were in a stickshift and somebody was dicking with the clutch. It's a very odd experience, but the engine responds normally throughout (remember that when the car finally "catches", RPM's will drop due to load, not to it being an engine problem).

    Frame rust, that car flipper's frame was around the left tow hook as I spotted before, but another area to be VERY careful of is the suspension mounts around the engine. Sometimes rust will be patched insufficiently down below only for it to creep up above. I have seen some nasty rust in that area, holes in the frame even, and it supposedly "drives just fine". For now, anyways...

    If there's one thing visits to DPI have taught me, it's how DeLoreans met their end in ways that could have been prevented. On one total loss, the top of the shock tower had a rust hole big enough for two or three fingers to fit through on one, DPI told the guy he would not work on it unless he was able to repair it. Didn't even make it to the highway before busting the shock absorber through the frame at that railroad crossing, I think even through the fiberglass as well. Combine that with undercarriage damage like mad from scraping, and a "daily driver" insurance value, it was a goner. (In the owner's defense however, that particular crossing from DPI to I-76 is one hell of a bump, even the big rigs go over it at 2 MPH, and I myself hate it in ANY car.)

    Seat covers are available readily, just to clarify that part, upholstery shops can easily do it and will. Vendors work with you on fabric selection and color. Other parts, guess I haven't been here long enough to see a reproduction interior part, but that one's on my radar to tackle under Raccin. It's why Raccin is here, if no one else will do it, I will. Don't expect any timely manner though, I just finished moving yesterday and now need to find where I put all my projects. Not to mention 2-3 years and only now tangible results on one smaller item.

    LCA, I have damaged ones if you want pics of what a bent-out-of-shape one looks like. I have a lot of failed parts from my own car I'm sitting on waiting for someone to need it, occasionally I find someone and sell it to them. This is in that category, but it's also good for reference pics.

    Fuel system, you haven't run into this yet, but wait till you see a carb or an EFI! These guys can be religious about it, but not always (I'm DPI brand EFI now and agnostic ), sometimes coming along with engine swaps (I think the DeLorean was a rare one to use the mess that is K-Jet), but those have dedicated sub-forums somewhere here for them.

  10. #50
    Junior Member iOutatime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shep View Post
    Adding to points above (all very good ones by the way!)

    Automatic transmission: I know DPI sells a new reproduction transmission governor, typically a failure of it would make it shift very strangely. If you see RPM's not at all match speed in a very strange manner (as an example, redline at 2 MPH dropping to idle at 5 MPH from a stop light), transmission reauires a rebuild and valve body usually also needs work. I say this with two cars' worth of experience in failures, the second of which is my DeLorean. (We tried to avoid cleaning the valve body at the time as the weather was amazing and I was horribly impatient. Still worth it.) It feels like what you would expect to see if you were in a stickshift and somebody was dicking with the clutch. It's a very odd experience, but the engine responds normally throughout (remember that when the car finally "catches", RPM's will drop due to load, not to it being an engine problem).

    Frame rust, that car flipper's frame was around the left tow hook as I spotted before, but another area to be VERY careful of is the suspension mounts around the engine. Sometimes rust will be patched insufficiently down below only for it to creep up above. I have seen some nasty rust in that area, holes in the frame even, and it supposedly "drives just fine". For now, anyways...

    If there's one thing visits to DPI have taught me, it's how DeLoreans met their end in ways that could have been prevented. On one total loss, the top of the shock tower had a rust hole big enough for two or three fingers to fit through on one, DPI told the guy he would not work on it unless he was able to repair it. Didn't even make it to the highway before busting the shock absorber through the frame at that railroad crossing, I think even through the fiberglass as well. Combine that with undercarriage damage like mad from scraping, and a "daily driver" insurance value, it was a goner. (In the owner's defense however, that particular crossing from DPI to I-76 is one hell of a bump, even the big rigs go over it at 2 MPH, and I myself hate it in ANY car.)

    Seat covers are available readily, just to clarify that part, upholstery shops can easily do it and will. Vendors work with you on fabric selection and color. Other parts, guess I haven't been here long enough to see a reproduction interior part, but that one's on my radar to tackle under Raccin. It's why Raccin is here, if no one else will do it, I will. Don't expect any timely manner though, I just finished moving yesterday and now need to find where I put all my projects. Not to mention 2-3 years and only now tangible results on one smaller item.

    LCA, I have damaged ones if you want pics of what a bent-out-of-shape one looks like. I have a lot of failed parts from my own car I'm sitting on waiting for someone to need it, occasionally I find someone and sell it to them. This is in that category, but it's also good for reference pics.

    Fuel system, you haven't run into this yet, but wait till you see a carb or an EFI! These guys can be religious about it, but not always (I'm DPI brand EFI now and agnostic ), sometimes coming along with engine swaps (I think the DeLorean was a rare one to use the mess that is K-Jet), but those have dedicated sub-forums somewhere here for them.
    Well the one thing I hope I don’t do is take the car around his neighborhood and then on the highway, only to have it all go up in flames or the engine drop out on me. If I mention any mods to him, it will be those gas lines. Well have to do that if I buy the car in May and drive it back across states (probably just head North a bit and stop at DPI). If you have photos of LCA or ANYTHING else Shep, Id love to take a look and study them. Add some notes if you’d like and email them to me what to watch out for.
    Mason Fowlkes
    masonfowlkes@aol.com
    St. Peters, Missouri

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