Dave did you have a part number/size/brand of V-band clamp you are using?
I bought the V-band clamp from DMCH which has a part number that does not seem to be a standard part. I did some research on stock clamps and there are a lot of variables you can choose from.
I was ready to try the Breeze VT10469 but decided that DMCH must have done a lot of testing for the proper clamp. But after finding out your not going to get a clamp that will compress the pump down since the ridge on the tank is so little I think it's not that critical. So if your a gambling man, try that VT10469
What are your plans for wiring in the gauge? I know the DMCH pumps come with their own logic box or whatever and I'm not sure if this is just to prevent sudden swings on the gauge due to inclines or what. With all the threads about these newer style pumps, I wouldn't mind transitioning over eventually, especially since I don't need to worry about high pressure pumps for K-jet.
What are your plans for wiring in the gauge? I know the DMCH pumps come with their own logic box or whatever and I'm not sure if this is just to prevent sudden swings on the gauge due to inclines or what. With all the threads about these newer style pumps, I wouldn't mind transitioning over eventually, especially since I don't need to worry about high pressure pumps for K-jet.
I got my new Dremal and finished the cutting for clearance onto the closing plate. Then I put some thin foam over the pump and a layer of Saran wrap. Bolted the plate down and wet 3 layers of 6 oz. glass. To wet the glass you lay Saran wrap on your table, lay the first layer, pour some epoxy on the glass and spread it over the glass. Then lay the next layer over the first, epoxy, next layer. Then you can lift that built up glass and lay it over where you want it. Leave the Saran warp on it an you can just use your fingers to press the build into place. Keep pressing every hour or so until your epoxy hardens. My T88 epoxy takes 24 hours to get real hard but starts setting 2 to 3 hours after the mix. The Saran warp will pull off after the epoxy sets.
I recently was helping another owner installing an all in one fuel pump. His pump was a GM MU1777. That pump functions fine but getting the float for the fuel sender to clear the tank walls is a problem. The problem is for our tank setup, you have to position the pump in one position to clear the closing plate (where the spare tire goes). That sets the float interfering with the fuel tank walls.
It's been since early 2018 since I installed a Bosch 0 986 580 992 all in one pump in may car. That pump is also known as a Bosch 67317 type. I was working with another owner who installed that pump and he wanted me to design the ECU to drive the stock fuel gauge for that sender. Now that pump comes with an offset of the pump location relative to the top mounting. I was able to rotate that pump to remove the offset. You take the pump apart and use different holes already in the pump for the two mounting rods. The result was the float for the sensor was pointing correctly (to the drivers side) to clear the tank walls.
I was thinking the MU1777 may work if I make a new float arm that puts the float on the other side (180 deg out from norm). I'm still working on that but the result is the sensor values get reversed. So you get 40 ohms at full tank and 248 ohms at empty. The norm is swapped 248 ohms full and 40 ohms empty. This is no problem with my ECU since I can program my software to use either direction.
There may be other pumps that will work. Maybe going to a junk yard with a ruler you can choose one. Our Tank from the bottom to the top lip of the mounting is 8.7 inches. So you want to make sure the pump can compress to that height.
Notes:
No matter what pump you use, you want to cut that stud off the bottom of the tank so the new pump will sit on the bottom. If not you will not be able to run your tank as low and that also affects the range of your fuel level sender. I remember I used a hacksaw blade to cut mine. Quite a task working through the tank opening. If your tank could be dry and vented of all fumes you could use a cutoff wheel on with a Dremal. You don't want to try to break it off, that many damage the tank and get a leak.
There is also long "wire" in the tank. Mine ran along the drivers side of the tank. Since my float runs close to that side, I pull the "wire" to the front side of the tank. The wire rotates freely. I just had to bend the end a little to clear the passenger side of the tank.
I really don't like when you tighten the pump hold down clamp, it pulls the clamp up. My pump would probably be fine without the clamp. It sits tight in the tank and very little spring pressure to push it up because the pump is almost the correct height without pushing it down. I wan to someday 3D print a ring to glue on the top of the tank.
Float wire is 2.5 mm diameter. You need about 12 inches long or more. I was able to fine some 400 mm long on Ebay.
No matter what pump you use, you want to cut that stud off the bottom of the tank so the new pump will sit on the bottom.
That was one of my concerns too, before seeing this @ DCS : DSC_9445.jpg
Although I agree w/ you : i'd be more confident w/o the stud... and yet less confident to have removed 100% of the metal residues from the filing/cutting
That was one of my concerns too, before seeing this @ DCS : DSC_9445.jpg
Although I agree w/ you : i'd be more confident w/o the stud... and yet less confident to have removed 100% of the metal residues from the filing/cutting
The fuel pump filter would take care of that. Some of the all in one pumps put it on the outside at the bottom. Most put it inside at the bottom. It's a very fine filter.
Originally Posted by Chris 16409
Dave M vin 03572
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