The further adventures of #2613

[Farrar]

#2613's engine replacement thread started getting way off track so I decided to start another thread devoted to the other repairs/modifications I've made to the car. I'll start with the interior lighting.

Using the same dome lights that John Dore used in his DMC-24, I cut 2" holes in the headliner, one just behind the stock dome light and one above the parcel shelf. #2613 still has the original cardboard headliners and the cloth is not in great shape, so the idea was that if I didn't like it, I could go back to stock when I upgrade to fiberglass headliners.

I got really tired of the old plunger switches so I replaced them with magnetic reed switches. They're activated by a magnet glued to the inner surface of each door's trim.

The result:

interior lights finished.jpg

As you can see, moving the dome light rearward slightly also improves visibility in the footwells. However, I will probably add footwell lighting at some point in the future.

[Farrar]

[Farrar]

Today's work:

- replaced hood release cable with a new stainless steel cable from DMC Texas
- replaced hood release spring with a new stronger spring from DMC Texas
- replaced hood release cable bracket with a new stainless steel bracket from DPI
- replaced hood intrusion brackets with new stainless brackets from DPI
- replaced hood strut mount brackets with new stainless brackets from DPI

old trunk release cable bracket.jpg

new trunk release cable bracket.jpg

[Farrar]

I decided to tackle the rusty hardware in the trunk. The hood stops threw me a loop: when I removed them, the tops came apart.

broken bump stop.jpg

I improvised a solution with 1/2" black nylon nut covers. They don't look half bad:

hood bump stop.jpg

New stainless hood intrusion brackets from DPI. Of course I installed them with stainless hardware:

hood intrusion bracket.jpg

Stainless trunk strut brackets from DPI. Yes, all of the hardware in this photo is also stainless: the screws are black anodized. I could have gone with plain stainless, but I like the look of the original black screws so I decided to replicate it. However, instead of split washers I used Belleville washers. Belleville washers are conical so they have a smaller outer diameter than a flat washer. That's why they just barely peek out from under the screw heads.

hood strut bracket.jpg

More uses for black anodized stainless steel 13mm hex nuts:

louvre bracket lighter.jpg

louvre strut hardware.jpg

trunk strut hardware.jpg

I just love little details like that.

The trunk area still needs some TLC: The seal is cracked and falling off, and the carpet pieces are also beginning to let go. I could also paint the area, perhaps, but I don't mind certain parts of the car showing its age, and the inside of the trunk is hardly ever seen, anyway. I will replace the seal, though. Also, the masonite backing for the lower carpet piece is warped, either through heavy cargo or through moisture intrusion over the years. I will make a waterproof replacement.

[Farrar]

Well, I had a misfire problem and while I was troubleshooting (I ended up just buying new wires) the car sat for a few weeks all closed up.

Little did I know that the last time I drove the car (in the rain) water intruded somehow. So a few weeks later when the new plug wires were installed and I was ready to fire it up, I opened the door and smelled something horrendous. Then I saw little spots of mold on the seats, the console, the steering wheel... I've never seen mold intrusion like that before!

I bought a portable dehumidifier, set it on the passenger floor, turned it on, and closed the door. It's been running for over 48 hours straight and the humidity gauge shows 61%, down from 69% when I first started. This is going to take a while.

[Timeless]

Whoa... you locate the source of the moisture intrusion?