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Thread: Living the Dream - VIN 0628

  1. #71
    TNDMC Founder JBaker4981's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Cookeville, TN

    Posts:    203

    My VIN:    628

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by joshg View Post
    Just finished reading this entire set of posts and really love your descriptions, learnings, frustrations, and celebrations of successful projects!
    Found it because I'm talking with Tom about his next car up for sale...

    Keep up the good work, I've learned much from you already!

    --josh
    Thanks for the kind words Josh! Tom is a great guy, you'll be happy to have done business with him!
    Jesse Baker
    VIN 628
    Black Interior, Automatic
    TNDMC: TN DeLorean Motor Club

  2. #72
    TNDMC Founder JBaker4981's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Cookeville, TN

    Posts:    203

    My VIN:    628

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Summer Overhaul: Part 1

    Summer Overhaul: Part 1

    Summary
    In preparation for the wedding of my wife's best friend on Halloween of this year, the transmission needs to be overhauled in order to ensure that it can get to Nashville and back without any failures. This has been briefly mentioned in previous posts as the Transmission would lose 3rd gear once the A/T was up to operating temperature and driving above 50-60 mph which is not ideal in any situation. While I have been driving it around town, primarily in stop and go traffic, the car had been doing excellent however something had stuck in my head for months.

    What had stuck in my head was this.... While I was recovering from spine surgery in December and January, one of my DeLorean buddies (who also lives in town), got the car out of the storage unit to give her some exercise and reported back to me that 3rd gear did not slip and also got it up around 65mph. Interesting. Towards the end of May, when out and about in the DeLorean, I hopped on a divided highway just to see if it would lose 3rd like it had. No. The car was as happy as can be up to 80 mph. VERY interesting. I tested it again on another day with no slippage while cruising at a steady 70 mph. Consulting with a few friends, we theorize that there might have been some debris blocking a channel within the Transmission and while the car sat for a couple of months, the debris loosened up and fell out. I decided to change the transmission fluid and the filter as it hadn't been done since it was restored and see how the car performs afterwards. I know, I know... this should be a regular thing which I now know. In further readings such as a few threads and videos, Michael Maupin mentioned that you should change the A/T fluid itself at every other oil change. Sounds like a decent schedule to me.

    Keep in mind that with a majority of this overhaul project, I had never done before so I am learning as I go. Thank God for my friends and the Community for advice.

    While the car is going to be on jack stands for a lengthy period of time, I figured I would take care of several while I was under the car. Que the list!
    • Change Transmission Fluid
    • Change Transmission Fluid Filter
    • Install Grady A/T Heat Exchanger
    • Send A/T Governor Computer to DMCMW for Rebuild/Update
    • Rebuild CV Joints
    • Install new CV Boots
    • Install DPI Cat-Back Exhaust
    • Oil Change!


    2021-06-19 10.49.17.jpg2021-06-19 10.49.23.jpg

    Let's Do This
    Date: 06/19/2021
    Mileage: 40,396

    My wife gave up her spot in the garage for me to use the entire garage has an operating room so I maneuvered the car diagonally in the garage to give plenty of room to roll around and work on all sides of the car. I had purchased a creeper as to help move around without causing strain on the spine. Anyway, I put the car on jack stands enough for my fat @$$ to roll underneath on said creeper to work. First thing was first and that was to drain the A/T fluid which came out non-translucent... a first indication of what would be found.

    2021-06-19 09.55.25.jpg2021-06-19 10.49.53.jpg2021-06-19 13.01.04.jpg

    After letting it drip empty for a bit, I unscrewed all 13 transmission pan bolts and removed the pan to find quite a bit of metal particles on both magnets on the pan and on the filter. Wonderful. I removed the 3 bolts from the A/T Filter, removed it, cleaned it off, and analyzed it. Rafael wanted me to cut it open so I did and what I found surprised me.... an @$$ load of debris.

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    I cleaned all of the bolts and washers with degreaser and threw them in an ultra sonic cleaner and then bagged and tagged them. I followed up on the Transmission Pan and cleaned it up to the point where I feel like I could eat off of it... but I won't.

    Removing the Drive Axles
    Date: 06/19/2021
    Mileage: 40,396

    Back under the car, I noticed that the bolts on the axles had been swapped to the 8mm Allen bolts. Great! I don't have a socket for this so off to Autozone I went. Once I had the proper tool in hand, I was able to remove all 24 bolts from the axles without issue. The passenger side pulled down into my hand without trouble however the drivers side axle required a little more force via a rubber mallet. It dropped free with a couple of whacks. 3 out of 4 boots are torn and these are set aside for another time.

    2021-06-19 12.56.42.jpg2021-06-19 14.53.16.jpg2021-06-19 15.14.24.jpg2021-06-19 15.14.45.jpg
    Jesse Baker
    VIN 628
    Black Interior, Automatic
    TNDMC: TN DeLorean Motor Club

  3. #73
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    574

    I just found tears in two of my boots. They weren't there a month ago. I guess they were brittle.

    The tranny issue is very disappointing. Finding junk in the oil is bad enough, but finding junk that sticks to a magnet is really bad. I would assume your third gear clutch is metal to metal. Are you going to rebuild it yourself?

  4. #74
    Administrator Ron's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  North GA

    Posts:    5,770

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    From the pics and assuming the fluid was't changed recently, I wouldn't be surprised if a filter wouldn't put it back on the road for quite a while. Rather than a channel being clogged , it looks like the filter was. Common for one to pack up as it gets warm and then release as it cools (or even just shut it off for a bit). And the fluid would be dark brown with clutch material and being over heated if the clutches were metal to metal.
    ...just suggesting to give it a chance to prove itself first, since worst case you'll only lose fluid and a filter.

  5. #75
    Motors about after dark Michael's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    4,450

    My VIN:    I respect my vin enough not to whore it out among the masses.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    From the pics and assuming the fluid was't changed recently, I wouldn't be surprised if a filter wouldn't put it back on the road for quite a while. Rather than a channel being clogged , it looks like the filter was. Common for one to pack up as it gets warm and then release as it cools (or even just shut it off for a bit). And the fluid would be dark brown with clutch material and being over heated if the clutches were metal to metal.
    ...just suggesting to give it a chance to prove itself first, since worst case you'll only lose fluid and a filter.
    Debris is what I would consider more than normal, but no chunks either. I think Ron's logic is sound. Replace fluid and filter and give it another look after say 1,500 miles or so.
    http://dmctalk.org/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=90&dateline=161808992  9

  6. #76
    TNDMC Founder JBaker4981's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Cookeville, TN

    Posts:    203

    My VIN:    628

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    I just found tears in two of my boots. They weren't there a month ago. I guess they were brittle.

    The tranny issue is very disappointing. Finding junk in the oil is bad enough, but finding junk that sticks to a magnet is really bad. I would assume your third gear clutch is metal to metal. Are you going to rebuild it yourself?
    Since they tore recently, I would pull them and replace them all or else it is going to sling grease on everything under your car. Ask me how I know. As for the tranny, we'll see how she drives after this maintenance and then re-evaluate.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    From the pics and assuming the fluid was't changed recently, I wouldn't be surprised if a filter wouldn't put it back on the road for quite a while. Rather than a channel being clogged , it looks like the filter was. Common for one to pack up as it gets warm and then release as it cools (or even just shut it off for a bit). And the fluid would be dark brown with clutch material and being over heated if the clutches were metal to metal.
    ...just suggesting to give it a chance to prove itself first, since worst case you'll only lose fluid and a filter.
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael View Post
    Debris is what I would consider more than normal, but no chunks either. I think Ron's logic is sound. Replace fluid and filter and give it another look after say 1,500 miles or so.
    I agree with both of you from my readings throughout the last few weeks. Planning on sending it after the fluid and filter change and seeing how it performs.
    Last edited by JBaker4981; 07-05-2021 at 08:51 AM.
    Jesse Baker
    VIN 628
    Black Interior, Automatic
    TNDMC: TN DeLorean Motor Club

  7. #77
    TNDMC Founder JBaker4981's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Cookeville, TN

    Posts:    203

    My VIN:    628

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Summer Overhaul: Part 2

    Summer Overhaul: Part 2

    'Ello Gov'na!
    Date: 06/26/2021
    Mileage: 40,396

    How To Guide: A/T Governor Removal

    After making arrangements with Mike at DMC Midwest for a rebuild/upgrade of the A/T Computer, I decided to go ahead and pull the unit the next chance I got. The goal was to get it shipped on Monday 6/28. Using the guide in the link above, I got to work trying to push the Connector Box down through any spot within the engine bay which was by far the hardest part of the job. I imagine that I'll be more than frustrated and cussing when I go to put it back in. Snipping the Zip Ties holding the Connector Box wires and an AC line to the frame helped assist maneuvering the unit sideways and down past the diagnostic port. Once the Connector Box was dropped free, I positioned it over the transmission to the passenger side and go to work on the other parts.

    All in all, the Governor Computer, Switch, and Solenoid all dropped free easily. Once the unit was out of the car and on my work area, I cleaned the harness and all of the parts rather well including the bolts and washers. As with my OCD, I ran the bolts and washers through my ultra sonic cleaner and then bagged and tagged them.

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    Stock Exhaust Removal
    Date: 06/26/2021
    Mileage: 40,396

    Over the course of the week prior to this, I had been popping the exhaust bracket bolts (7), Cat Clamp Bolt, and the Catalytic Converter bolts (4) with PB Blaster. Removing the Exhaust was fairly easy with the exception of removing it from the Catalytic Converter which was still mounted to the car. I will spare the detail but I eventual worked the muffler out. The Catalytic Converter would wait until the Fourth of July weekend.

    2021-06-26 11.53.46.jpg2021-06-26 11.53.24.jpg2021-06-26 12.53.23.jpg2021-06-26 12.53.34.jpg2021-06-26 12.53.47.jpg2021-06-26 11.44.14.jpg
    Jesse Baker
    VIN 628
    Black Interior, Automatic
    TNDMC: TN DeLorean Motor Club

  8. #78
    TNDMC Founder JBaker4981's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Cookeville, TN

    Posts:    203

    My VIN:    628

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Summer Overhaul: Part 3

    Summer Overhaul: Part 3

    Goodbye Catalytic Converter
    Date: 07/03/2021
    Mileage: 40,396

    Allowing the nuts to soak in PB Blaster for another week, I was able to remove 3 of the four nuts without issues or broken studs. The real issue was the nut/stud behind the O2 sensor on the stock crossover pipe which was a literal nightmare to get to. After two trips to the hardware store, I bit the bullet and picked up a set of metric Crowfoot wrenches as I was looking for a 17mm one to which Harbor Freight's set skipped this size. Lowe's was the saving grace however the $50 price tag was not enjoyable. This one bolt is already more trouble than expect. At last, I got the stupid bolt off of the stupid nut and removed the stupid Catalytic Converter.

    Disclaimer: No, I do not care about emissions and no, emissions do not exist where I live.

    2021-07-03 13.03.45.jpg2021-07-03 13.03.57.jpg

    Half an Oil Change
    Date: 07/03/2021
    Mileage: 40,396

    Welp, I was already at the back of the car so why not? When in position, I decided to get rid of the EZ Valve and put the original drain plug back in primarily because the oils drains so ridiculously slow from the EZ Valve. The EZ Valve also leaked from the base slightly so if it is going to leak from the drain, might as well have the original plug in with a crush washer. When purchasing all of my parts ahead of time, I did order 10 crush washers (102101)... 1 for the oil pan, 1 for the transmission pan, and 2 for the Final Drive plugs when I get to it. While this oil change is not complete, I left it empty so that I can replace a switch and not have much of a mess. Side note, this oil change was over due

    2021-07-03 13.40.00.jpg2021-07-03 14.20.48.jpg2021-07-03 14.23.08.jpg

    Additional Parts

    I spoke with Suzie at DMC Midwest on Friday 7/2 who informed me that the A/T Governor Computer had been rebuilt and is ready to be shipped. Awesome! We arranged to have it shipped on Tuesday 7/6 so that I can figure out anything else that maybe needed. With the removal of the Cat, now would be the perfect time to replace the leaky Oil Pressure Switch (102462) so I have it on my list to inform her to send one as well.

    2021-07-03 13.04.03.jpg

    Breaking into the CV Joints and Cleaning
    Date: 07/03/2021 - 07/04/2021
    Mileage: 40,396

    How To Guide: CV Joint Rebuild Guide

    Never having done anything like this and seeing pictures in various guides and threads, I was dreading this but it had to be done. I put some cardboard down on my table as a precaution (good idea), fetched a bucket and mixed degreaser/water, and prepared many rolls of paper towels. Using the guide above, I got to work and popped of the end cap of the first. Oh boy.

    2021-07-03 11.20.30.jpg

    Following the guide step by step by step, I eventually had the first CV Joint apart and spent a while wiping away grease. I had an empty box from Cascade Dish Detergent that I put all of the ball bearings and clips into and hit it with some hardcore spray on degreaser and kept it closed. Once I had all four CV Joints pulled apart and wiped down, I dropped everything in the bucket of degreaser/water to let things sit overnight. Allowing time for the parts to sit allowed me to focus on cleaning up the axles themselves which came out well.

    2021-07-03 16.23.17.jpg2021-07-03 16.23.26.jpg2021-07-03 16.23.52.jpg2021-07-03 16.22.58.jpg2021-07-03 16.23.30.jpg2021-07-03 15.35.08.jpg

    After all of the parts soaked over night, I pulled the parts out one at a time and went to work truly cleaning everything. One at a time, I focused on each part eventually had everything very clean and degreased with the exception of the large hubs. For the large hubs, I got them fairly clean however there is still grease in the very hard to reach places which is fine as it is not like these things aren't going to be repacked anyway.

    2021-07-04 11.42.10.jpg2021-07-04 11.42.14.jpg2021-07-04 11.42.23.jpg

    All of the ball bearings, clips, and other parts were bathed in the ultra sonic cleaner and thoroughly dried before setting aside. The only damaged piece that I have found is an endcap which I will ask DMC Midwest about replacing. Next will be rebuilding the CV Joints and putting things back together!

    2021-07-04 11.42.29.jpg2021-07-04 12.04.54.jpg2021-07-04 12.04.58.jpg2021-07-04 12.28.05.jpg2021-07-04 12.27.58.jpg2021-07-04 12.28.27.jpg2021-07-04 12.28.33.jpg
    Jesse Baker
    VIN 628
    Black Interior, Automatic
    TNDMC: TN DeLorean Motor Club

  9. #79
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    574

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron View Post
    From the pics and assuming the fluid was't changed recently, I wouldn't be surprised if a filter wouldn't put it back on the road for quite a while. Rather than a channel being clogged , it looks like the filter was. Common for one to pack up as it gets warm and then release as it cools (or even just shut it off for a bit). And the fluid would be dark brown with clutch material and being over heated if the clutches were metal to metal.
    ...just suggesting to give it a chance to prove itself first, since worst case you'll only lose fluid and a filter.
    I'm glad you suggested this. I was going to, but I thought everybody would say I'm getting his hopes up and doing more damage. For the cost of a filter and fluid, it's worth a try. He won't have to go 1500 miles to know. It will show up quick if there's a problem. (Probably the first drive)

  10. #80
    Senior Member tommyrich's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Long Island, NY

    Posts:    154

    My VIN:    6883, 6146-Acura Powered, Formerly 10310 and 628

    Club(s):   (DMA) (LINY-DMC) (DCUK)

    As the former owner of 628, the transmission fluid, filter and gasket were all changed just prior to the sale. Thank you to Michael for providing new AT filters to the community. I believe it had the DPI silicone gasket as well.

    The CV axles were refurbished and new boots were applied as well, but in my experience they boots don't last very long on automatic transmission Deloreans. The angle of the shafts have a lot to do with it. I have helped other automatic owners do the job multiple times on their same car. We even tried boots from different vendors. The advice that I have taken is to use "off-road" type boots that have much more flex to them. We did one car with them, but it was sold before a long enough period to evaluate their performance.

    Good luck with getting it back on the road. And I hope your back is healing as well!
    Tom

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