Location: Ellensburg, WA
Posts: 182
My VIN: 5510
At home, we'll always be limited by the built in charger from the Bolt, which is 240v @ 32A, or 7.6kW. With the Bolt's battery, that means about 8 hours to go from 0 to 100%. It has 50kW DC fast charging abilities, which will do a full charge in about an hour, but that is going to take a lot of work for me to get working in the conversion. It requires the AC system.
Where we are in central WA, we actually get a good amount of sun. About 20% more than Seattle, which is only 90 minutes away. I would like to do a minimum of 10kW of solar, targeting 20kW if we can fit it.
I should be able to drive the car from here to Seattle for Pacific Northwest DeLorean meetups by the end of the summer - so long as I can secure a level 2 charger in the area for a few hours.I really want to bring it over to my office in Redmond, and we luckily have a charger on site.
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Posts: 475
My VIN: 4099
Club(s): (PNDC)
Here in Portland, OR, I have a south facing solar array. Over a decade, it averaged around 3MWh per year from a 3.2kW array. So a 10-20kW array would produce about 10-20MWh annually. Based on that, it's pretty easy to figure out the ROE on the system. I'm sure most installers can do an even better job calculating average output based on a particular region and how the panels are oriented. Regardless, even here in cloudy Pacific Northwest, a solar system can produce enough to cover its cost well within its lifetime.
If you end up going to a tech session hosted by Toby, just ask in advance and see what he has. There's plenty of power in his shop, so he might have a 14-30 or similar outlet around there. You might need a 14-30 extension cord though. I still have one from back in the "dark ages" of limited public charging. Thankfully I haven't needed it in about 8 years now, but it still sits in my trunk just incase.
Location: Ellensburg, WA
Posts: 182
My VIN: 5510
Location: Ellensburg, WA
Posts: 182
My VIN: 5510
New video! This one goes back a couple of months before first drive and covers getting the high voltage system plugged in, and debugging issues with the 12v system.
Posts: 1,087
Video is good, but I don?t like seeing it after the driving video. Order matters!
Carry on.
Location: Ellensburg, WA
Posts: 182
My VIN: 5510
Not a ton to report - but the DC-DC converter and AC charger are now both permanently mounted in the car (and plugged in). I've done some initial routing of coolant lines for the electronics loop, and just got in some new components for that. The overflow tank and pump are both mounted, so just the tubing is left. I decided to go with some very nice quality silicone heater hose that turned out more expensive than I expected - but I'd rather get the good stuff that I know will last. For now I don't think I'm going to include the front radiator in the loop, but having the coolant as a heat buffer should be fine with the temps near freezing.
The shifter is now mounted using the metal plate, so it's nice and secure and feels much better than being held on with zip ties.The manual service disconnect (high voltage disconnect) is located in the position I want it, and I need to fabricate a couple of mount points to call it 'done'.
Purchases
- Cable glands assortment (1/4"-1") and ring terminals - Amazon - $56
- FlexFab 3/4" x 50' silicone heater hose, 5/8" x 10', 5/8" - 3/4" adapters, and 3/4" couplers - Amazon - $448
Tools
- USB wall charger & cords to have a central charging location in the shop
- Seek CompactPro thermal camera