FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Page 13 of 15 FirstFirst ... 3 11 12 13 14 15 LastLast
Results 121 to 130 of 146

Thread: VIN 5510 - Bill's DeLorean Restoration

  1. #121
    Junior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2022

    Posts:    13

    Quote Originally Posted by CyberBill View Post
    You can't add just one battery in parallel, you basically have to have 2x, 3x, etc of the total number of cells in series. For me I have 96 cells in series and 3 in parallel, so if I wanted to add another in parallel I would have to add 96 additional cells.
    Quote Originally Posted by CyberBill View Post
    your BMS needs to support the number of cells in your battery pack. My BMS supports 96... so I really can't add another module unless I replace the BMS, which is kind of integral to the car. I would have to reverse engineer the CAN protocol and create a replacement interface that allows the rest of the Bolt to talk to the new BMS.
    Thank you for the explanation! The two details above are the exact two things I was wondering about. The parallel requirement to multiply evenly makes sense, and I am sure there are massive advantages to keeping the stock BMS and not trying to code up something custom.

    And yes, totally agreed on the cost piece. Trial and error is a bit of the process, especially when you're doing something totally new like this!

  2. #122
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    8,679

    My VIN:    03572

    You could probably add odd number of cells if those cells drive an inverter driving a charger for the main battery pack.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  3. #123
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Ellensburg, WA

    Posts:    180

    My VIN:    5510



    New video uploaded! This one covers mounting the front large battery box.

  4. #124
    Guy with a DeLorean Mark D's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Stevens Point,WI

    Posts:    2,426

    My VIN:    6125

    Nice progress and another enjoyable video to watch.

  5. #125
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Ellensburg, WA

    Posts:    180

    My VIN:    5510



    Another new video - this one covering the mounting of the front small battery box that lives in the old gas tank area.

  6. #126
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    1,076

    Quote Originally Posted by mark d View Post
    nice progress and another enjoyable video to watch.
    x 2

  7. #127
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Ellensburg, WA

    Posts:    180

    My VIN:    5510

    Merry Christmas!

    Thanks to having some time off around the holidays, I've been able to get some good work done on the car.

    First up - steering works!! It works really quite well, without any binding after my initial adjustments. The entire setup is far more straight forward than my original version, and I'm very happy with it now. The final setup is that I've got a vibration reduction U-joint attached to the steering rack - it connects via a 3/4" DD shaft up through a coupler (for easy assembly/disassembly) and into another U-joint. That U-Joint connects through the firewall support joint and into the steering column's U-joint. It's a lot better than the 4 or 5 U-joints I thought I was going to use, and I also don't have to use any support joints other than the one on the firewall. Initially I had a TINY bit of binding, but found that it was caused by one of the joints being installed too far onto a shaft, and cutting it down by just a hair resolved it.

    Secondly - the brakes work!! After a ordering brake fittings over and over again, I finally got a solution that works. It was incredibly annoying when I would order something through Amazon or eBay and the wrong part would show up - which happened 3 times!! The final solution is that I use an adapter to go from the Bolt master cylinder's M12x1.5mm threads into a standard AN-4 fitting. Then I downsize it to AN-3 - and use a stainless steel braided PTFE brake hose to another AN-3 fitting. Then I have one final AN-3 to the standard brake line (M10x1.0mm bubble) so I can attach it to the car's existing lines. I'm getting a teeny bit of leaking on one joint, but I've got some thread sealant on the way to fix that up. Otherwise the brakes are bled, and they work, and it's ready for the first drive.

    Thirdly - the rear battery pack is complete and reassembled. I've done a bunch of upgrades to it to make it safer and easier to work with, which I will cover in depth in a video on my YouTube channel in probably 2 months (I'm very slow with editing!)

    Lastly - I'm just finalizing some work on the low voltage system in the car, and prepping everything to be reinstalled so I can FINALLY drive the car around the block for the first time. It's SO CLOSE!!

    Purchases
    • M8 bolts of various sizes, M4 screws in various sizes, and some spacers for M6, M8, and M10 - BoltDepot - $80
    • 12-pin Flange mount Deutsch connectors (5x) - eBay - $61
    • Amphenol SurLok 350A connectors (2 pairs) - Mouser - $113
    • DOT4 brake fluid - Autozone - $8
    • Wire grommets - Amazon - $11
    • Brake line parts - Amazon - $210


    Tools
    • Ryobi 1/4" Extended Reach Ratchet
    • Various 1/4" drive socket accessories - magnets, 10mm with nut holder, new ratchet
    • Long reach tap handle
    • Sheet metal bender tools
    • Face shield
    • More step bits

  8. #128
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Dec 2018

    Posts:    1,076

    Very nice! I?m surprised the rear tabs on that box didn?t pull out when you finished welding. I guess you could pound them back in some if they did. Nice job?

  9. #129
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Ellensburg, WA

    Posts:    180

    My VIN:    5510

    Quote Originally Posted by Helirich View Post
    Very nice! I?m surprised the rear tabs on that box didn?t pull out when you finished welding. I guess you could pound them back in some if they did. Nice job?
    You mean warp out due to heating from the welding?

    I don't tend to get a lot of warping when I weld unless I really go crazy with the heat and stick on one area for too long. Typically I will do tack welds all around the piece, and then do short stitch welds around it multiple times until it fills in completely. I also use an air compressor and a small battery powered fan to cool off the parts.

  10. #130
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2019

    Location:  Ellensburg, WA

    Posts:    180

    My VIN:    5510



    New video showing the latest up-to-date progress on the conversion. I've got another full episode coming out in a few days, too.

Page 13 of 15 FirstFirst ... 3 11 12 13 14 15 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •