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Thread: 1264 goes EFI

  1. #31
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

    Location:  Illinois

    Posts:    2,412

    My VIN:    11408

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (TXDMC) (DCUK) (DOI)

    Quote Originally Posted by D001264 View Post
    When I tackle the relay deck, giving some consideration to controlling the cooling fans from the Megasquirt ECU. This would make it pretty simple to stage the turn on, as an example turn 1 fan on at 190 degrees and the second fan at 200 degrees. Both fans on with the AC active. Guessing someone else on this forum has been down this road, open for any thoughts.
    I have done this with a few MS installs, and all of my LS installs. Works great. Just switch the low side of the cooling fan relay via one of the outputs on the MS. Assign a programmable output with a hysteresis of 10deg so it does not flutter the relay. I also like to give a condition of RPM so the fans do not turn on when the engine is off.
    I found some outputs on the MS claim they support high or low switching but can be problematic when using high. So imo it is best practice to implement low (ground) switching for all of the MS outputs.

    Also, in reply to your comment about cleaning up the fuse/relay compartment this is what I did. I have about twice the fuses and relays as stock but in the same space and much neater. It was not an easy or inexpensive project though. It uses the Littlefuse POWR BLOK system. https://www.littelfuse.com/industrie...tribution.aspx




    Supercharged 5.3L LS4 + Porsche 6spd
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  2. #32
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    8,679

    My VIN:    03572

    It's always better to switch the ground side using a transistor or MOSFET. You only need to drive the base or gate with 1 volt above ground on a transistor or 5 volts above ground on an MOSFET. When driving the high side you need those values above the car voltage. My relays have a 24 volt supply for driving my MOSFETs. The hot start and idle ECU don't need that supply because they drive the ground side.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  3. #33
    Member D001264's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2020

    Location:  Prior Lake, MN

    Posts:    33

    Thanks for the tips!

    Josh- Wow that looks great, it's a bummer for all of us that you did not work at DMC... We would all have much better cars!

    Dave - As always I appreciate your thoughts and the items you have designed to keep us on the road. I just need to kick up my electronic engineering a few steps to follow along. I will say the lack of knowledge is not all my fault, my electronic training was provided by the U.S. Army, it did come with a couple of pairs of boots and free daily workouts

    Been playing with Tuner Studio, amazing how nice the engine idles at 850 RPM with timing set at 4 degrees BTDC. Pretty cool the things you can do with the timing map that are just impossible with a mechanical advance.

  4. #34
    '82 T3 FABombjoy's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Lansing, MI

    Posts:    1,148

    My VIN:    10270

    Quote Originally Posted by D001264 View Post
    Been playing with Tuner Studio, amazing how nice the engine idles at 850 RPM with timing set at 4 degrees BTDC. Pretty cool the things you can do with the timing map that are just impossible with a mechanical advance.
    4deg sounds really late. I'd expect that it would be lumpy - does the timing light agree w/ the software?

    I only ask because I found a much more stable idle at 19deg timing. MAP dropped a few kPa compared with 13. Stock cams.
    Luke S :: 10270 :: 82 Grey 5-Speed :: Single Watercooled T3 .60/.48 :: Borla Exhaust :: MSD Ignition :: MS3X Fully SFI Odd-fire EFI :: DevilsOwn Methanol Injection

  5. #35
    Member D001264's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2020

    Location:  Prior Lake, MN

    Posts:    33

    Quote Originally Posted by FABombjoy View Post
    4deg sounds really late. I'd expect that it would be lumpy - does the timing light agree w/ the software?

    I only ask because I found a much more stable idle at 19deg timing. MAP dropped a few kPa compared with 13. Stock cams.
    I was pulling about 31 KPa with stock cams and just playing with the timing. The tune I started with had about 18 degrees at idle, but I found that the smoothness continued to improve down to 4 degrees. The nice thing with electronic control is that I can bring the timing back instantaneously when I come off of idle. The 850 rpm was with the fans running and timing verified with timing light.

    Still much to learn, but enjoying the journey.

  6. #36
    Senior Member powerline84's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Location:  TN

    Posts:    801

    My VIN:    2706

    Yeah I was running 18 or 19 and it was super smooth with my cams. Kinda like luke

  7. #37
    Senior Member powerline84's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2015

    Location:  TN

    Posts:    801

    My VIN:    2706

    Any updates? How's this project coming

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