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Thread: Suddenly won't start?? Need suggestions

  1. #11
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
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    Fuel pump not getting power could be the inertia switch. That's probably the most likely thing to cause a surprise no-fuel condition if you already checked the fuses.

    I know you were adverse to sending your car to Grady, but.......
    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!

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  2. #12
    Member MacStainless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82DMC12 View Post
    I know you were adverse to sending your car to Grady, but.......
    Rob is not taking on any new work and additionally hasnít returned my calls. So, itís not that Iím adverse to taking it to him. I WANT to. But itís no longer an option.

  3. #13
    Senior Member 82DMC12's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by MacStainless View Post
    Rob is not taking on any new work and additionally hasnít returned my calls. So, itís not that Iím adverse to taking it to him. I WANT to. But itís no longer an option.
    Oh I see. I'm sorry to hear that. I do hope all is good at PJ Grady.
    VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!

    -5MT-Stage 1 w/custom Magnaflow muffler-Tinnerstedt steering linkage-Marty Maier shocks-K&N filter-PJ Grady front lowering springs-Michelin Pilots-Centerforce clutch-Alpine CDE-HD137BT-Zapco and JL Audio amps-Kicker S8L7-Boston Acoustics-Ample Audio

    Photography and Backpacking is life.

    http://www.500px.com/AndyLien

    Was Fargo, ND
    Now Olathe, KS

  4. #14
    Member MacStainless's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2014

    Location:  Long Island, NY

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    A quick update on the situation:

    I stopped by the shop to settle the bill & gave the car a few tries at getting it started. I checked the ballast connectors and they seem tight. I don't hear the fuel pump running when I put the car into acc mode. I jumped the RPM relay and, weirdly, I heard a clicking / buzzing from the engine bay?? I tried to narrow where it's coming from, but I couldn't tell. Maybe the compartment in the right corner where the cover is next to the jump post? I did check the inertia switch and it wasn't tripped. Just to be sure, I manually tripped it and reset it. No dice.

    So it's looking like there's some electrical issue potentially causing it. Tomorrow it's getting flat bedded to the other shop with the guy who has Volvo experience. I'm sure he'll be able to chase it down and get things resolved way faster than a noob like me could.

  5. #15
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Yes you need a mechanic that knows our car. The fuel pump only runs when the engine is firing. It's a simple test for those in the know to jumper the RPM relay to test the fuel pump.
    Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the fuel pump prime for a few seconds when you turn the key to the run position? I struggled with no power to the pump one time and of all things, it turned out to be a corroded connector that is located under the washer housing.
    -----Dan B.

  6. #16
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dn010 View Post
    Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the fuel pump prime for a few seconds when you turn the key to the run position? I struggled with no power to the pump one time and of all things, it turned out to be a corroded connector that is located under the washer housing.
    Some cars with the OE RPM relay will prime when the key is turned on. Some won't. The OE RPM relay can pick up an ignition pulse when the key is turned on and that would make it prime. My RPM relay will always prime unless you have jumpered my hot start option and it is currently doing the prime every hour.

    A prime does not clear injector lines. It will bring the system up to 40 PSI since it fills the accumulator. So if you have the hot start problem caused by vapor in the injector lines the prime does not cure that.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

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