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Thread: Eibach springs sagging??

  1. #11
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    hi michael

    i spoke to mike at midwest.. he said orientation of the springs shouldnt make a difference but maybe since they have been in there for years... i am going to take a wheel off this eve or tomorow and see if i can see anything.. and try the loosening and retightening thing.. i am 100 percent sure i have it all back together right...i know i glued small pieces of rubber to the inner cups on the bottom...to keep the springs from squeaking but dont think that would make much diference as these were just thin flat pieces from an old strut assembly...

  2. #12
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
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    Don't the Eibachs have a history of sagging?

    Also, 400F to bake the powdercoat will not affect the springs. It is not hot enough to change the composition of anything. Especially when they are uninstalled. Most springs come powdercoated anyway.

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  3. #13
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    hi josh..

    i couldnt find any info on them sagging...but i would think the backs where all the weight of the car is would do it if that was the case???

  4. #14
    Senior Member Rich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by painterdave72 View Post
    i couldnt find any info on them sagging...
    I did find some info about sagging. From Eibach.

    In short, look for other causes of the ride height change.

    Taken from the Eibach Suspension Glossary:

    Q: Spring Sag (aka: sagging)
    The loss of spring load and length caused by a poor design, insufficient material or excessive loading beyond its physical limits. Over time, this can cause the spring to collapse or even break. There is a stress limit even for the best materials, but the max allowed stress levels are then superior. But even those high stress levels can be expanded by special production technologies - see Pre-Setting (aka: Blocking). All Eibach Performance and Motorsport Springs are preset to avoid any sagging.

    Q: Pre-Setting (aka Blocking)
    A complex production technology. All Eibach suspension springs go through the Pre-Setting process. Designed to expand the stress levels to higher limits each spring is compressed to full block, meaning all coils make contact under pressure. This allows new engineering limits to design superior products and to make springs permanently block-resistant - no more sagging! All product design characteristics will now be maintained for the life of the spring, unless damaged; physically or by corrosion.

    For the record the Eibachs DMCH sold me were in an Eibach Performance Springs box so they must have been "preset". To avoid any sagging...
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  5. #15
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    Eibach can say anything they want. But all steel springs can sag. It's just that they aren't going to sag over a couple weeks without some reason. I would be looking at the assembly.

    How were they removed? If you used a spring compressor, is it possible you damaged the spring somehow in that process?

  6. #16
    DMC Midwest - 815.459.6439 DMCMW Dave's Avatar
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    Properly made steel springs won't sag, they will break when they wear out. Anyone can have a bad batch, but being OK for 10 years and suddenly sagging can't really be a manufacturing defect. The reason I asked about powder coating (not pertinent here since he didn't coat them) is that some operators have been known to run the oven hot to speed up the process. This can anneal springs, warp sheet metal etc.

    My feeling is that some of the "cases" of setting or sagging is people who preload the bushings by tightening with the suspension at full drop, and then the bushings settling or sagging over time. Also not necessarily the issue here.
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  7. #17
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    hi dave

    I tightened the bushings with a jack under the lower balljoint to push up a bit then i tightened them... i took a wheel off and looked at one side and it all seems fine.. i am going to loosen the lower control arm bolts and retighten them with it hanging a little bit to see what that does... other than that do you have any other ideas??? i only just rebuilt all this about a month and a half ago and have only used the car a few times since......also you dont think the small rubber i put under the bottom of the spring would affect anything do you??

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by painterdave72 View Post
    I tightened the bushings with a jack under the lower balljoint to push up a bit then i tightened them... i took a wheel off and looked at one side and it all seems fine.. i am going to loosen the lower control arm bolts and retighten them with it hanging a little bit to see what that does... other than that do you have any other ideas??? i only just rebuilt all this about a month and a half ago and have only used the car a few times since......also you dont think the small rubber i put under the bottom of the spring would affect anything do you??
    If you let them hang and tighten them up, could it hold it up for ten minutes? Maybe. Could it hold it up untill the first time you drive? Maybe. But it's not going to hold weight driving. Those bushing should be tight where the "at rest" position is.

    The small rubber you installed was under the spring, correct? It's height would be negligible and it would be raising the car. It could have pounded out in the time you have drivin, but I still don't see how it would lower your car.

    Could you not install some spacers at the top to get the height you want? It would bug me not to know what happend, but if you get it where you want, I guess that's the goal.

  9. #19
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    hi

    maybe i had it jacked up too high when i tightened everything up and it put a little more stress on it all?? thats why i was going to loosen and tighten everything back that way...???

  10. #20
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    Did you put the spring isolators back in?

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